Consolidated Q&A for Carvex 420 Jigsaws
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Paul G said:
Sorry, I should have seen that question coming. [embarassed]
Yes, they will work with the Trion just fine.
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barnowl said:
Well, just don't push the ejection lever so hard that you might break something. [big grin]
If your use the Trion blades with the Carvex and the blade doesn't pop out easily, you can use some pliers to twist the blade counter-clockwise and that will release it.
Alternatively, hitting the top of the T-shank with some sandpaper would probably reduce the chances of any problem at all. It's literally the thickness of the paint on the blade that makes the difference I believe.
Shane
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deepcreek said:
We've got two threads going on about the same topic right now, which is spreading out my answers.
The Trion blades have been discontinued. Only Carvex blades moving forward. The blade itself is not thinner, only the top of the shank that goes into the saw.
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Rick Christopherson said:
'Sorry Rick, although it may have been poorly worded, the observation I was making was that the entire spine of the Trion blades appear to be thinner than that of the Carvex blades. And, just as you point out, they do indeed appear to come from similar blanks (.070").
Granted, this is not a statistically relevant sampling since it's an observation based on only two blades but they are both new blades so they are as they came from the factory. They are both S 75/4 FSG. The one on the right in the image below is the Trion version and the one on the left is the Carvex version.
[attachimg=#1]
The arrow on the Trion blade points to a "step down" where the trapezoidal grinding you mention has occurred. Note how it extends from the leading edge of the blade and gets deeper toward the trailing edge. As best I can measure from this sampling of one case, the thickness of the Trion blade at the bottom of the gullets is about .2mm thinner than the Carvex blade at the same place. Near the trailing edge, it appears to be over .3mm thinner.
Again, this is a single sampling so take all of this for what that's worth... You mileage may vary, as they say in the movies.
Tom
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unityroad
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Hello, This is for Shane. I pre-ordered as soon as it was possible. I"m told today I may have to wait a week or two. Really? Ordered the barrel saw, acss kit ,blades.... Now I see all the profestional demo guys got theirs[eek] How does one get on ,or near the top of a list to buy this tool? I make a living with my tools. My old saw died (thank-God) so this is really needed now. Maybe their should be two list or something.....kinda like a pros desk. I would pay to be on the list. The other list for those who are basically just hooked on Festools. ........there really is not another tool site that I think that even gives a flying **** What I am hoping this saw will do is cut the mitered skirt boards for the 57 steps I need to cut. For the risers to skirt board. The miter base should be just fine. I guess the timming on this is just what it is. I just was not expecting this delay. Thanks for listening, Timothy.
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unityroad said:
Timothy, first, my apologies for the delay in getting your Carvex. Our goal is to work with our dealers to ensure availability and a good experience for customers.
I do know of one dealer who placed an order and there was a problem with our new online order system that caused the order not to ship in a timely manner. That dealer is located in NC. This was entirely my (Festool's) fault.
Dealer orders are handled on a first come basis. In the case of the Carvex, the Accessory Kit had higher than expected order volume and is presently on backorder for some dealers. This should not have delayed delivery of the Carvex itself, only the Accessory Kits. Orders are scheduled to be shipped to dealers for delivery in time for the official launch date, with the exception of back orders, like the Accessory Kit.
I can only assume that your dealer may not have ordered in time for delivery for the 9/1 launch date without more information.
With regard to what you call the professional demo guys, I don't have a specific number but I only know of Frank Pellow and Paul-Marcel that received demo units. I suspect a few of the magazine editors got them too. So, the quantity is certainly not enough to impact our ability to fulfil dealer orders.
Shane
deepcreek
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Tom Bellemare said:
As the happy owner of a Trion with no immediate plans to upgrade to a Carvex, I'm just wondering why this change was made and what it means to me.
Is it due to an engineering improvement, design necessity for the new model, or ease of manufacturing savings?
Should I be stocking up on Trion blades?
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deepcreek said:
I understand everyone's concern, but this really isn't a big deal from my perspective. The new Carvex blade is, in essence, the same as the Trion blade from a cut and performance perspective.
The Trion blade was slightly thicker than standard blades and it caused those blades to sometimes hang with the Carvex ejection mechanism. As far as I know, that was the reason for the change and nothing more.
If you've been using the Trion blade and you switch the Carvex blade, you'll get the same results and that's what I think matters to everyone.
Shane Holland said:
I guess I should pay closer attention -- I was all set to order the new Carvex barrel grip battery model plus the accessory set, called the dealer & found it "might be available next year" [sad] My 120v Bosch barrel grip will be just fine.
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Sorry if it was not communicated clearly that only the corded versions are currently available. The cordless will follow in the coming months, I anticipate before the end of the year. I don't think it'll be 2014 before the cordless models are available here.
Birdhunter
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Will there be both a barrel and D-handle battery model?
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Birdhunter said:
Yes
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Paul G said:
It does auto-disable when inverted and will always do this regardless of LED setting: strobe, always on (except inverted), or always off.
Suggest adding an "always on (even when inverted)" setting to the 425 or 440 or whatever is next.
This seems kind of strange since one would expect that the area being sawed would be darker if you were working underneath something (line a countertop or whatever) since the workpiece would likely be blocking the primary light source.
This seems kind of strange since one would expect that the area being sawed would be darker if you were working underneath something (line a countertop or whatever) since the workpiece would likely be blocking the primary light source.
Jeff Zanin
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Usually when cutting with the saw below the work you are above the work watching the blade from the top which is where you marked the cut line.
Reaching under the work with your hand to operate the saw causes the blade to cut on the down stroke relative to the top which is typically the finished surface and further minimizes tear out. It also gets the body of the saw away from the cut line and makes it easier to see the blade.
But certainly there are some conceivable situations where you would need to actually operate the saw from below, certainly in this case it would be very handy to have the light on.
Jeff
Reaching under the work with your hand to operate the saw causes the blade to cut on the down stroke relative to the top which is typically the finished surface and further minimizes tear out. It also gets the body of the saw away from the cut line and makes it easier to see the blade.
But certainly there are some conceivable situations where you would need to actually operate the saw from below, certainly in this case it would be very handy to have the light on.
Jeff
Syslite! [big grin]
