Consolidated Q&A for CMS Router Table

[Dan Pfeiffer]

How is the miter gauge for the router table different from the MFT/3 miter gauge?  Looks like it might just have a different fence? 

Thanks

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

How is the miter gauge for the router table different from the MFT/3 miter gauge?  Looks like it might just have a different fence?  

Dan,

It's very similar. It has a longer "arm" and a shorter fence. Otherwise, it's very similar. Edit: the "arm" I refer to is shown in the image below. It's much shorter on the the MFT/3.

I will note that the flag stop from the MFT/3, which can be ordered as a spare part, makes a good stop for use with the miter gauge and fits in the fence profile.

Shane

[attachimg=#]

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Just a note... it originally said on our website that the CMS could use the table extension for infeed purposes and that was incorrect. It was corrected shortly thereafter but I wanted to make sure that everyone was aware of this information to make the best purchase decision. The table extension can only be used for outfeed. The power switch blocks use on the infeed side.

 

[Mr. Jeff Smith]

Really happy to see Festool bring this to the U.S.  Unfortunately I have the MFK700 and OF2200, so I'll be waiting to see what it takes to get the OF2200 in there.  I noted the pricing, will there be any introductory pricing or is that price the regular MSRP?  Thanks.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

No intro specials, sorry.

 

[Mr. Jeff Smith]

No worries, just asking in case I should have considered picking it up even without the router in hand.  Thanks.

 

[Nick C]

Someone mentioned using the sliding table + miter gage for coping rails. Is this really recommended? The parts would have to be very robust.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Someone mentioned using the sliding table + miter gage for coping rails. Is this really recommended? The parts would have to be very robust.

Yep, it's robust. Here's a video from Brice showing it with the miter gauge being used.

 

[Martin Johnson]

No issues at all.  I built a three piece entertainment center with a number of doors...worked like a charm.

 

[fletchtool]

Can you change router bits in an OF1400  from above the table? The Festool official video, although it is titled OF1400, only shows an OF2200 being changed from above. I have seen another video on youtube where the guy is changing the bit on a 1400 from under the table and it looks like a real pain to do. I have another question; does a regular 36mm hose fit the in-fence dust port?

Fletchtool

 

[Nigel]

Yes you can.In the video below you can see me change the bit from above at 1.02.

 

[fletchtool]

Yes you can.In the video below you can see me change the bit from above at 1.02.

Thanks Nigel for pointing me back your video. I am really thinking hard about getting the CMS Router table when they become available, but want to be sure there will be no bad surprises only good ones when I get it. When I watch you changing the bit in your video, it seems as though the wrench is sticking down into the centre hole and could slip, possibly dinging the centre hole. This is a concern for me as I have become very fumbly fingered lately.  I can just see the wrench slipping in my hands and dinging the centre hole. I do not want to have to have to pull the module mounting out everytime I want to change a bit.  I was just wondering if removing the turret stop on the of1400 would allow the collet to almost protrude through the centre hole opening rather then sitting distinctly below the table, allowing for better access for the wrench. Much the same as it seems to be in Festool TV 16 video which shows changing a bit in the of2200. Has anyone removed the turret stop for this purpose? Would there be a down side to doing this?

Thanks, 
Fletchtool

 

[vwdave]

Removing  the turret will not allow the collet to stick out further, from what I remember. I was able to get the router to bottom out so none of the crome stanstions were showing. I was able to change all the bits I tried without any problems, I had to be careful with the large rail and style bits but was still able to change the bits without removing the plate.

Dave

 

[Alan m]

you could get one of those bent spanners to square to the not better.

 

[vwdave]

A bent wrench would be amazing. Someone should make them  [poke]

Dave

 

[lambeater]

A bent wrench would be amazing. Someone should make them  [poke]

Dave

Humm wrench + heat+ vise = Done. Still will need a CMS to try.

Lambeater.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

It would be difficult, if not impossible, to change a large diameter bit from the top. But it's also quick and easy to pull the module out if necessary. I don't want anyone to have false expectations. But for most bits you'd be fine changing from the top.

Edit: To be clear, we're talking seconds to pull the module from the table. It's a half turn on two screws to pop the module out and have full access to the router.

 

[ccarrolladams]

It would be difficult, if not impossible, to change a large diameter bit from the top. But it's also quick and easy to pull the module out if necessary. I don't want anyone to have false expectations. But for most bits you'd be fine changing from the top.

Shane is, as always, absolutely correct. The only times I have used an OF1400 in the CMS was during Doors & Drawers class. The only bits we were using were large from a stick and cope set. We simply pulled the Router Module out to change those bits which we could not change from above.

In class we also used another CMS with an OF2200. On trips to Europe I had used that combination several times. In class we had no trouble changing a 3.5" panel-raising bit from the top. On my European trips I believe the larger bits I changed without removing the router module were that size. I do know those bits barely cleared the hole in the CMS.

Let me also say that I have never even seen an OF1010 mounted in a CMS, but since long ago at the time I bought my first router table 1000 watt routers were considered very powerful, I can see tasks where for smaller bits the OF1010 could be very useful in a CMS.

 

[mouppe]

I have managed to change a 3" panel raising bit with backcutters in my CMS with an OF1400 fitted. It was not easy and it is very easy to slip and damage the router bit with the spanner.

Much much quicker to remove the router and change the bit normally.

Also, be aware that it may be easier to change the bit above the table on an OF2200 than an OF1400, but the CMS in NA is not compatible with the of2200.

 

[Nigel]

Yes you can.In the video below you can see me change the bit from above at 1.02.

Thanks Nigel for pointing me back your video. I am really thinking hard about getting the CMS Router table when they become available, but want to be sure there will be no bad surprises only good ones when I get it. When I watch you changing the bit in your video, it seems as though the wrench is sticking down into the centre hole and could slip, possibly dinging the centre hole. This is a concern for me as I have become very fumbly fingered lately.  I can just see the wrench slipping in my hands and dinging the centre hole. I do not want to have to have to pull the module mounting out everytime I want to change a bit.  I was just wondering if removing the turret stop on the of1400 would allow the collet to almost protrude through the centre hole opening rather then sitting distinctly below the table, allowing for better access for the wrench. Much the same as it seems to be in Festool TV 16 video which shows changing a bit in the of2200. Has anyone removed the turret stop for this purpose? Would there be a down side to doing this?

Thanks,   
Fletchtool

You're welcome. I can only say that I never change  bits from below. The spanner is at an angle but you get a good grip and I don't recall ever having the spanner slip. The bit I change to is a fairly large round over bit about 70mm in diameter I think. With larger bits it helps to have long stem so can leave a bit of space for the spanner.

Normal bits like the first one present no problems at all.

At full depth the end of the collet is actually almost flush with the table. There's no way I can think of of extending it further as the body of the router hits the base at full depth.

If you're still concerned then making a bent spanner is good advice. I did that for my previous router table and it worked well.

By the way it's not quite as quick as two screws to take the module out as you have to disconnect the below table dust extraction as well. Far easier to change from above if you can imo. However as mentioned above for some bits it may be the only solution.