ct 33 performance (overperfomance)

How about adding ply to the inside corners (octagon) might help with air flow and vortex. Maybe a 90 degree in along the side of the systainer and a 90 degree pointed up for outlet to vac. behind it?
 
Bru, how about a section of SONOTUBE in the appropriate diameter inserted inside the SYStainer with a trash bag inside the SONOTUBE, apply some foam sheet to the inside of the SYStainer lid to seal to the top edge of the SONOTUBE/bag combo?
 
Rod, what are you using for a collection container?  I just picked up the ClearVue CV06 & have now destroyed two trash cans!  First I hooked it up to a rubbermaid brute trash can, which I thought was perfect.  It collapsed like a tin can, from the 134 CFM of the CT33.  Then, I went & got a galvinized 10 gallon trash can.  This, like the first can, worked well at first.  Then I noticed the performance drop & found that the seams had seperated.  The can is now wrapped in duct tape, which works, but it looks like a mummy can.   ;D  The CT33 is a beast.   :D
  I plan to try a Fiber bucket next, yet who knows?  What did you use to build your Tornado Cyclone?  How 'bout a pot belly stove.  ;D

  BTW, you're right about the bag remaining empty this way.  I'm doing alot of routing with the OF 2000 & the waste is plentiful.  I purchased the ClearVue CV06 because I was filling a CT33 bag tight with just under 100 lineal feet of routing 3/4"w x 7/8" w dadoes.  Both machines are fantastic performers, yet the cost of bags concerned me.  The "Tornado Cyclone" works amazingly well.  Now if I can find a worthy container......... ;)

-John

rodwolfy said:
Bill,

I don't know what kind of a work environment you're dealing with, but have you thought of a cyclone separator? I bought a Clearview mini-cyclone last month after reading several recommendations here.

When I got it home, I threw out my old shopvac motor and mounted the Clearview on the old Shopvac (which has wheels) and then made a new lid out of plywood. It is amazing how much of the extremely fine dust that goes down the Clearview and not into the vacuum. I used it first on my Fein with a HEPA filter and couldn't even get a pinch of dust. I was just thinking that if you are dealing with a large capacity of dust, it would be much easier to pre-filter it into a larger shopvac container or barrel on wheels and then empty that, instead of changing out the Festool vac bags?

Rod
Click to expand...
 
Terp said:
Rod, what are you using for a collection container?  I just picked up the ClearVue CV06 & have now destroyed two trash cans!  First I hooked it up to a rubbermaid brute trash can, which I thought was perfect.  It collapsed like a tin can, from the 134 CFM of the CT33.  Then, I went & got a galvinized 10 gallon trash can.  This, like the first can, worked well at first.  Then I noticed the performance drop & found that the seams had seperated.  The can is now wrapped in duct tape, which works, but it looks like a mummy can.   ;D  The CT33 is a beast.   :D
  I plan to try a Fiber bucket next, yet who knows?  What did you use to build your Tornado Cyclone?  How 'bout a pot belly stove.   ;D

  BTW, you're right about the bag remaining empty this way.  I'm doing alot of routing with the OF 2000 & the waste is plentiful.  I purchased the ClearVue CV06 because I was filling a CT33 bag tight with just under 100 lineal feet of routing 3/4"w x 7/8" w dadoes.  Both machines are fantastic performers, yet the cost of bags concerned me.  The "Tornado Cyclone" works amazingly well.  Now if I can find a worthy container......... ;)

-John

rodwolfy said:
Bill,

I don't know what kind of a work environment you're dealing with, but have you thought of a cyclone separator? I bought a Clearview mini-cyclone last month after reading several recommendations here.

When I got it home, I threw out my old shopvac motor and mounted the Clearview on the old Shopvac (which has wheels) and then made a new lid out of plywood. It is amazing how much of the extremely fine dust that goes down the Clearview and not into the vacuum. I used it first on my Fein with a HEPA filter and couldn't even get a pinch of dust. I was just thinking that if you are dealing with a large capacity of dust, it would be much easier to pre-filter it into a larger shopvac container or barrel on wheels and then empty that, instead of changing out the Festool vac bags?

Rod
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Terp,

Until I came up with a heavy plastic 55 gallon drum I used a construction tube as a collection container. I epoxied in a bottom and made a slip fit top out of MDF and put shrink wrap on the outside to make it more airtight, although in retrospect I don't think it was needed. It would maintain its shape even if I dead-headed the vacuum, something even the plastic drum won't do. You could cut one to an appropriate length and they have the added benifit of being cheap.

 
sToolman said:
I have a new (to me) CT33.  How do you tell when the bag is full?
Click to expand...

Hi,

Just have to open it up and look.    If you notice the dust pick up dropping off at all compared to the norm- it is time to check the bag.  After my clean out incident I check fairly often .

Seth
 
  I have a lid on a metal can like that for the Delta, bag style, dust collector that I've had for years.  That is not as effective as a true cyclone style collector though.

Here, check this link,
http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/

  This is what I'm using, the CV06, & it's crushing a galvanized can like the one shown on your link when run on the Festool DC.  The CT33 is very powerful at 134 CFM.  It sucked the vertical side seam open wide in the trash can.  :D
 
Terp said:
  I have a lid on a metal can like that for the Delta, bag style, dust collector that I've had for years.  That is not as effective as a true cyclone style collector though.

Here, check this link,
http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/

  This is what I'm using, the CV06, & it's crushing a galvanized can like the one shown on your link when run on the Festool DC.  The CT33 is very powerful at 134 CFM.  It sucked the vertical side seam open wide in the trash can.   :D
Click to expand...

SO use a 40 or 55 gall drum.  Did you watch the video on the site I posted above?  Sucked up a big pile of dirt and not a spec of it went into the fein shop vac.  Impressive.
 
  No, I hadn't watched the video.  I have now though & I must say it's impressive.  I really like the baffle design.  Mine is just the lid with the two ports & it tends to pick up from the can.  It's like a better mouse trap.  ;D
  I will try a steel drum, if necessary.  I'd like to stay lighter weight though.  First, I'll try a fiber barrel, with steel rings.
 
To those who are experimenting with various dust collector reservoirs, don't forget that the pressure differential between the inside and outside of your setup is acting on the entire surface area.  That adds up quickly to a lot of force at the vacuum levels capable of being generated by a CT 22 or CT 33 vacuum machine (90" static water lift which corresponds to about 4 psi).

Dave R.
 
Exactly Dave,
  The problem occurs when there is one weak spot, like the seam.  It simply failed, & once it did, it is now for ever the weak spot.  The rubbermaid Brute trash can worked fine until it first collapsed.  Then on it would fold up quickly at the same crease marks as it had before.  To counter this I put strap clamps around the trash can to act as girdles.  This also prolonged the buckets usefullness but it always folded in a few moments after that.  Just like a whiskey barrel has rings, this vessel needs rigidity in the round, only the pressures on the barrel are reversed.  It sucked in two sides of the trash can each time, while pushing out the other sides.  In the straps, the bucket just crumpled.  I'll try the fiber container with rings & latching lid next.  After that I'll go with a pickle bucket, if I can find a pickle vendor.  :D
 
Hi,

  Since these things are imploding. Would it help if the strengthening items  , steel rings etc , were on the inside?

Seth
 
A buddy of mine used a large diameter sewer pipe.  About 14" or 16" x 3/8 " thick.  The local pipe supply sold him a broken piece about 4' long for about 20 bucks.  I'm sure most suppliers have junk like that in the back. I've used them for faux columns on exterior decks and docks.  Super strong.  Just a thought.

Dan
 
Dan,
  That is a great idea.  It'll need a top & bottom fashioned, but totally doable.  It'll take some scrounging for the right, larger diameter, but I'll start keeping my eyes open.  It'll need to be a large waste line type pipe & a scrap at that.  Otherwise I might need to buy a length.  That could be enough for two or three, so who else wants one.  :D
 
Another thought I just had is what about a galvanized culvert, the kind used for drainage under drives, etc.?  Probably not as workable as the pipe, but maybe more available for some locations. 

Dan
 
Hi,

  If end caps are made for those big pipes, maybe an end cap would work giving you a built in bottom and or top.

Seth
 
I agree with use of MDF or plywood for relatively inexpensive end caps, or 1/2" thick PVC sheeting scraps depending on price and availability from your local plastics supply company.  Silicone adhesive caulking, or some closed cell, adhesive-backed foam tapecould be used to seal the end pieces to the cylindrical member.  Has anyone tried a section of the fiberboard tubes onto which carpeting is wound up at the mill?  Those have to be reasonably strong and plenty should be available.  A similar product ought to be available at the DIY big box stores, for use as forms for poured concrete footing columns.  I'm spoiled on this subject because I purchased an Oneida Dust Deputy complete with 10 gallon steel drum, so I don't have any issues with collapse, sealing, easy cleanout or static electricity build-up.  I used to make vacuum tanks for commercial diary farmers milking systems from sections of  ~18" diameter Schedule 40 PVC piping for the body and 1/2" PVC sheeting for the end caps, all routed with rabbeted ends to fit together before welding with a PVC rod and Seeley hot air welder.  Never had a failure, but I don't know remember what the vacuum level was. 

Dave R.
 
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