richard.selwyn said:According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
richard.selwyn said:According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
waho6o9 said:richard.selwyn said:According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
I use this cold saw when cutting metal. I like the way it works even though it's not an industrial type cold saw, and then again neither is the price.
http://www.amazon.com/Evolution-FURY3-Multipurpose-Cutting-Compound/dp/B002BWP2O4
lambeater said:Its not too complicated so it doesn't need to be overthought. Doors are only metal skin with wood core. Use a skill saw with carbide blade, straight edge for guide and a good set of eye protection!!!
lambeater
Tinsnips are what I'm tyring to avoid - after a day cutting M48 profiles I get a blister!Nigel said:richard.selwyn said:According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
Yes Richard,one of those Evolution rage things you see everywhere that cut metal with no sparks and they're cheap.Or a pair of tinsnips.... [cool]
richard.selwyn said:Tinsnips are what I'm tyring to avoid - after a day cutting M48 profiles I get a blister!Nigel said:richard.selwyn said:According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
Yes Richard,one of those Evolution rage things you see everywhere that cut metal with no sparks and they're cheap.Or a pair of tinsnips.... [cool]
Brice Burrell said:lambeater said:Its not too complicated so it doesn't need to be overthought. Doors are only metal skin with wood core. Use a skill saw with carbide blade, straight edge for guide and a good set of eye protection!!!
lambeater
Most metal doors don't have a wooden core. I wouldn't recommend cutting a steel door with just any carbide blade. The problem is that the door likely has a metal insert that seals or caps the top and bottom. It you happen to cut into that reinforced insert you might shred the teeth on the blade.
Nigel said:richard.selwyn said:Tinsnips are what I'm tyring to avoid - after a day cutting M48 profiles I get a blister!Nigel said:richard.selwyn said:According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
Yes Richard,one of those Evolution rage things you see everywhere that cut metal with no sparks and they're cheap.Or a pair of tinsnips.... [cool]
Ah,OK what about the guillotine.....again [smile]
http://dnn.edma.fr/Langues/Francais/Produits/PlaquisteMaçon/Guillotineprofilésmétalliques/tabid/467/language/fr-FR/Default.aspx