Cutting melamine without chipping or tearing?

bits

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Joined
Dec 24, 2007
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Just purchased and started using the TS 55 and so far I am quite pleased with it. My first project entails cutting some melamine and I was wondering what others have found to be the best setting for the rpm? and any other tips as well. I am getting some chipping/tearing using 3000 rpm and insuring that the chip guard is set flush to the surface being cut. I am using the blade that came with the saw, which is the 48 tooth carbide tipped blade.

Thanks
 
Should have done a search to begin with....and I found answers to most of my questions. The question I still have is what is the correct rpm setting? Is there a general rule...something like; use the lowest rpm possible for example. I have done some woodworking over the years but I have never used a variable speed circular saw or table saw and I do not have a clue as to the benefit of a variable speed saw!
 
Chances are you are cutting the less expensive variety of melamine typically purchased at big box stores, which chips very easily.  I have tried using the Festool laminate blade, but the results are about the same as with the standard TS55 blade.  I suspect you are getting chip-free cuts on the guide rail side of the blade and some small chipping on the chip guard side.  What I do when I need perfect cuts is recut the chipped edge by turning the stock 180 degrees, with the chipped edge then cut off on the guide rail side of the cut.  Many cuts do not need to be perfect, if the edge is buried in a dado, for example.  Good luck, and please let us know if you find a good solution.
 
Daviddubya said:
Chances are you are cutting the less expensive variety of melamine typically purchased at big box stores, which chips very easily.  I have tried using the Festool laminate blade, but the results are about the same as with the standard TS55 blade.  I suspect you are getting chip-free cuts on the guide rail side of the blade and some small chipping on the chip guard side.  What I do when I need perfect cuts is recut the chipped edge by turning the stock 180 degrees, with the chipped edge then cut off on the guide rail side of the cut.  Many cuts do not need to be perfect, if the edge is buried in a dado, for example.  God luck, and please let us know if you find a good solution.
I am cutting the less expensive box store variety of melamine...thank you for your suggestion. The standard 48 tooth TS55 blade did a decent enough job for my needs.

Thanks again.
 
bits said:
...The question I still have is what is the correct rpm setting? Is there a general rule...something like; use the lowest rpm possible for example...

Set the speed at the highest speed the saw will handle for the material being cut.  For melamine sheets, use the highest speed setting of 6.  The highest speed will be appropriate for most wood cutting.

If you have not done so, download and read Rick Christopherson's excellent TS55 manual found on this page:
http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/tips.html?sid=01c2194ad7eca6d2bbea00199099e62c
 
Daviddubya said:
bits said:
...The question I still have is what is the correct rpm setting? Is there a general rule...something like; use the lowest rpm possible for example...

Set the speed at the highest speed the saw will handle for the material being cut.  For melamine sheets, use the highest speed setting of 6.  The highest speed will be appropriate for most wood cutting.

If you have not done so, download and read Rick Christopherson's excellent TS55 manual found on this page:
http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/tips.html?sid=01c2194ad7eca6d2bbea00199099e62c
Thanks again...the TS55 manual looks very useful.

Somewhat off the topic of this thread but the rubber edge on my 55" guide is not sticking to the guide very well; is there a glue or a way to get it to stick?
 
bits said:
...Somewhat off the topic of this thread but the rubber edge on my 55" guide is not sticking to the guide very well; is there a glue or a way to get it to stick?

Once it lets go it is hard to get the rubber to restick.  Try using rubber cement.  Or get another roll and reapply, cleaning the metal thoroughly first.  I have 4 guide rails - three of them are not a problem and the fourth one has a loose edge that I will get around to fixing one of these days.
 
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