D Grip or not D Grip that is the question....

[Rob-GB]

There are D grip versions and Body grip versions of the PS 300 and I am having to retire my old Makita jigsaw after 15 years of general abuse.
I have never used a body grip type and was wondering if there are any real advantages of this design, any views on this?
Thanks, Rob.

 

[Dan Clark]

Theoretically, they give you better control.  I say "theoretically" because they still have to feel good in your hand.  When I bought my D-handle PS300, I walked into the dealer 100% convinced that the body grip was the saw for me.  However, when I actually tried it, I didn't like it.  So I bought the D-handle. 

Try it before you buy it.

Dan.

 

[Michael Kellough]

You should get both styles naturally. 

Seriously, the top grip with trigger switch is great for intricate inside cuts
when you need to come to a stop quickly. The barrel grip is best when you
hold the saw upside down beneath the work (great for for when a finished
surface absolutely must not be marred).

And then, like Dan said, some styles just don't feel right to some people.

 

[mwhafner]

I am 100% bought into the barrel grip saws, but can see where it isn't for everyone.  Cutting from the underside offers complete visibility of the cut line, but does take some getting used to. 

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I have both, all though neither is a Festool. [embarassed]

 

[Rob-GB]

Thanks for the replies so far.
I have fondled both types, (like wood, Festools are very tactile... you've just got to touch them ;D) and both feel comfortable in the hand.
I have never had need of using a jigsaw upside down so maybe I should stay with the D grip style.
If only I could get away with buying both, Michael  [big grin]
Rob.

 

[PaulMarcel]

I have the barrel grip.  I often use the 'knob' at the front as a handle and cut pulling the jigsaw towards me.  Excellent visibility and I find I'm much more accurate following a curve.  No question, it was the right base for me.  Also, when I demoed a lot of drywall during my remodeling, it was a much nicer grip to use... grab the knob and pull up for cuts starting down low on a wall and transition to the barrel as you push all the way up.  I think a D-grip would be weird in this scenario.

 

[jvsteenb]

I have a D-grip Bosch, and I prefer that for work where the saw is above the material. Makes for an almost scrollsaw-like control in curved cuts - and a bit less straight-line control.
The visibility is better than the Trion's and I like the blast of air that cleans the sawline.

I also have a barrel grip Trion, and prefer that for working from under the material, or for using long sawblades in thick stock, for I feel the Trion controls these better.
When working from under the material, I consider dustcollection much more important (visibility is great anyway) and the Trion excels at that. In the up-side-down orientation, I feel a barrel-grip is much more natural and controllable.

The Bosch is a great saw, one of the jewels in their line-up and certainly on par with the Trion. 
But in the future, I can see a D-grip Trion coming this way.

Regards,

Job

 

[Frank Pellow]

I have a Festool barrel-grip jig saw and a Bosch D-grip jig saw.  I find that I have better control using the barrel-grip.  In particular, I like having my hand closer to the work.

 

[jvsteenb]

It's kinda funny how this differentiates between people...
I guess it's got something to do with how you control the cut.
The same tool can be controlled differently by different people.

For example, I noticed that most people move their arms when moving a mouse - While my lower arm stays put un the desk, and I move the mouse beneath my hand, with my thumb and ringfinger, adding my pinkie for stability. I have rather largish hands, with nimble fingers, and no mouse ever "fills" my hand, so moving my arm when I can move my fingers just doesn't feel right, and a lot less controlled
To top that off, my shoulderjoints are "hyper-mobile" - and somewhat injury-prone. So: same tool, different approach.

I guess the different preferences regarding jigsaws may be something similar. When one is accustomed to "steer" from the wrist, that would be different then steering from the elbow, or the shoulder.
Interesting ! [smile]

Regards,

Job

 

[Rob-GB]

A good point Job.

We all work in different ways and the world is often better for it ;D.

My very first jigsaw was a Black & Decker that was a gift to me, that had serious blade wander issues and only ever used for roughing out.
Next was a second hand Wolf that was super in comparison, then the Makita as they had arguably the best in the market at that time(plus my friend had loned me his when the Wolf shuffled off to tool heaven).
All had D grip type handles and I am used to using this type, so as there are no huge benefits from having the 'barrel' grip version I will contact my dealer and pick one up tomorrow as I will be working near them.

Thanks guys.
Rob.

 

[joiner1970]

then the Makita as they had arguably the best in the market at that time

Makita have never had the best jigsaw, Bosch have always been the best for many years, they did invent the jigsaw after all.

You cannot beat a Bosch jigsaw I have used them for over 20 years now and to be honest I cant even see anything much better in the Festool ones that would make me buy one over a Bosch.

 

[Dan Clark]

Theoretically, they give you better control.   I say "theoretically" because they still have to feel good in your hand.  When I bought my D-handle PS300, I walked into the dealer 100% convinced that the body grip was the saw for me.   However, when I actually tried it, I didn't like it.  So I bought the D-handle. 

Try it before you buy it.

Dan.

To clarify... 

My hands are average width, but with short fingers.  (I don't have those elegant piano-playin' fingers.)  When I wrapped my hand around the barrel-grip Trion, it was physically uncomfortable.  Theory says that a barrel-grip gives you more control.  However, my control with the barrel grip was LESS than with the D grip due to the shape of my hands. 

Several years ago, I was looking for a miter saw.  When I tried the Makita's vertical handled LS1013, I hated it.  Now I have a Kapex with a vertical handle.  I have no problems with the Kapex's vertical handle.  Go figure.

I use a Nikon DSLR.  Nikon DSLR's typically have taller bodies than Canon DSLR's.  Given my hands, theory says I should prefer the Canon.  Wrongo!  Nikon fits my hands better.  Go figure.

For some things, you have to try them out.  IMO...  If the fit isn't right, you'll never get good control.  YMMV.

Regards,

Dan.

 

[jvsteenb]

Yeah,

Along the same lines I should prefer the Nikon's grip - wich I don't. To me, the Canon's have felt way better for as long as I've held a camera - 30+ years that is.
Well, maybe we're just the fly in the proverbial ergonomist's ointment ?  [big grin]

Regards,

Job

 

[jonny round boy]

I have the barrel grip.  I often use the 'knob' at the front as a handle and cut pulling the jigsaw towards me.  Excellent visibility and I find I'm much more accurate following a curve.  No question, it was the right base for me.  Also, when I demoed a lot of drywall during my remodeling, it was a much nicer grip to use... grab the knob and pull up for cuts starting down low on a wall and transition to the barrel as you push all the way up.  I think a D-grip would be weird in this scenario.

Apologies for going off-topic, but I'm curious about something. I always assumed that 'drywall' was the same as what we in the UK call 'plasterboard' - a core of set plaster, with heavy-weight paper on both sides. If that's so, then why would you need to use a jigsaw to cut it?

JRB

 

[Frank Pellow]

Apologies for going off-topic, but I'm curious about something. I always assumed that 'drywall' was the same as what we in the UK call 'plasterboard' - a core of set plaster, with heavy-weight paper on both sides. If that's so, then why would you need to use a jigsaw to cut it?

JRB

Yes they are the same thing.  Of course, mostly one first scores plasterboard then breaks it but, sometimes one needs small openings in the board and I find that a jig saw is the perfect way to create these.

 

[Daniel_n]

On topic: I certainly prefer the barrel grip jig saw, as it enables me to cut from underneath, sand my hand is close to the wood, which is always nice. However it would be nice if the trigger was more easily accessible (I really dont know how) and it would be possible to se the speed via the trigger, just as with the D-handle saws.

Slightly off topic: If I would by a new jig saw today I would check out the Mafell P1cc, a brand new jig saw, of a new generation. 900W, compared to the 720 of the festool and bosch. It also have some nice accessories that aren't available for the bosch and the festool. And last but not least, there is a special, extra sturdy blade developed for the p1cc which looks really nice. You can see the P1cc in this youtube video: Lintera Mafell demonstration in Lithuania, Jonava (Part 1) The part with the p1cc starts about 3:30, and the special blade is showed at about 4:00.

 

[Rob-GB]

Apologies for going off-topic, but I'm curious about something. I always assumed that 'drywall' was the same as what we in the UK call 'plasterboard' - a core of set plaster, with heavy-weight paper on both sides. If that's so, then why would you need to use a jigsaw to cut it?

JRB

Yes they are the same thing.  Of course, mostly one first scores plasterboard then breaks it but, sometimes one needs small openings in the board and I find that a jig saw is the perfect way to create these.

I think or assumed that PaulMarcel was using his jigsaw to cut through both the Plasterboard and stud wall timbers. In which case a jigsaw with the appropriate blade would be ideal...he says thinking of those extra long blades Festool make ;D
And I concur that drywall and Plasterboard are the same..at least it looks the same animal from the Gaspar Lewis, Carpentry, book I bought for $45.95 when I visited the USA in the early '90's.
Some of the stuff in that book has slowly become the 'norm' in recent years in UK construction(timber frame work) but was experienced by me while living in Crete.
I was fortunate to befriend a Cretan guy who had lived in the USA and learnt carpentry there, we had some great times and I learnt a lot from him. Sadly he died in a road accident. When the local buiding control people said timber 'I' beams would not work he showed them they would.... in the roof of his own workshop! Great character and missed by many.
Sorry went off tangent there, but Georgios was suddenly in my mind again.
Rob.

 

[Frank Pellow]

...
Slightly off topic: If I would by a new jig saw today I would check out the Mafell P1cc, a brand new jig saw, of a new generation. 900W, compared to the 720 of the festool and bosch. It also have some nice accessories that aren't available for the bosch and the festool. And last but not least, there is a special, extra sturdy blade developed for the p1cc which looks really nice. You can see the P1cc in this youtube video: Lintera Mafell demonstration in Lithuania, Jonava (Part 1) The part with the p1cc starts about 3:30, and the special blade is showed at about 4:00.

Thanks, I loved the video.  There are lots of interesting tools in addition to the jig saw.  In particular, I like the carpenter's guided chain saw.

I have an earlier generation Festool jig saw which I really like and plan to skip the Trion generation altogether.  So, I am eagerly awaiting to see what Festool comes up with with a new jig saw.  Having seen the Mafell, maybe I should stop waiting for Festool and jump to Mafell.

By the way, I just checked the Mafell North American web site and I see the I can purchase a 120 volt version of their carpenter's chain saw for about $6,000.  I was quite interested until I saw the price.  [sad]

 

[Rob-GB]

Just dont look at the Mafell price for their portable bandsaw, a great bit of kit for large section timber framing, like the barn rebuild I am pricing, but the prices are not realistic in the current climate. I can saw green oak with my Disston handsaw for many hours before that tool starts to pay it's keep! I'd rather buy sweat bands and get on with it.