Well, I was putting together tentative order on Bob's site last night and I have set the kapex aside for a later date.... I have a birthday coming up....that first one with a 4 in the second decimal place which bothers me a touch... So I have some time to get productive with the loot from the first haul so who knows? I am narrowing it down to a saw, router, table, 36 and the domino... I really do want that domino.... And various accessories.
Decisions....
- Thread starter Chappy
- Start date
Of the TS55, router table (BTW the 1400 does not fit any current production tables available in NA), and Domino I use the Domino by far the most. If I were still making plywood bookcases it would be different. I have gone to open frame construction and my only use of ply is for shelves. Of my tools I use my band saw and PS 300 jigsaw almost as much as the Domino.
IMHO a power miter saw isn't a necessity unless you are doing a lot of trim work. I spent some time looking at miter saws; then I was cleaning out my basement and found a Nobex 180 that my brother got as a door prize at a ww show and gave me. For the small amount of trim that I do currently its just fine. Hold on the Kaypex until you determine that you really really need it. As for sanders they are an essential tool for finishing, but not so hot for cleanup. As for hand sanding I know folks who say its relaxing. OK for them, but I'd rather have a tooth pulled than hand sand any project of moderate or larger size.
IMHO a power miter saw isn't a necessity unless you are doing a lot of trim work. I spent some time looking at miter saws; then I was cleaning out my basement and found a Nobex 180 that my brother got as a door prize at a ww show and gave me. For the small amount of trim that I do currently its just fine. Hold on the Kaypex until you determine that you really really need it. As for sanders they are an essential tool for finishing, but not so hot for cleanup. As for hand sanding I know folks who say its relaxing. OK for them, but I'd rather have a tooth pulled than hand sand any project of moderate or larger size.
ccarrolladams
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Chappy,
Only you know what you want to build and how you want to approach building that. Only you know your own experience with tools, as well as the opinions you have formed about tools.
Here in FOG we also come to the use of tools with varied backgrounds, desires and facilities.
Festool is a system. In an ideal world every Festool customer would be within an easy drive of an experienced physical dealer. I have considered myself blessed that for more years than either of us care to admit Jesse Barragan has been selling me fine woodworking tools and machines. Many years ago he opened Eagle Tools, now of Los Angeles, CA. Jesse has surrounded himself with experienced woodworkers on his staff, as well as a vast base of satisfied clients. We all welcome folks new to woodworking and Festool.
Fortunately those who do not live within a realistic drive of a Festool dealer have the services of Tom and Bob.
My suggestion is to do what is necessary to make use of the experience Bob and Tom have with all kinds of tools, especially Festools.
I do own a TS75 in addition to a trio of TS55. Honestly I hardly ever use my TS75, but a skilled cabinet maker working with me considers his own TS75 his basic plunge saw, so he uses mine far more than I do. We each work in different ways and have different body shapes.
From the late 1940s until the Kapex reached the USA I had made a lot of money with many kinds of radial arm and miter saws. I still own and use a very large RAS as well as a smaller 10" miter saw. Yet I was so impressed with demonstrations of the Kapex and word from friends in Europe that I placed an early pre-order. Currently I own 2 Kapex and a fellow working with me owns another. I had made face frames before I owned a Kapex, but since learning to use mine I would not try doing so on an ordinary saw. Still, I agree that even with your generous budget, there are many Festools I would buy ahead of a Kapex.
You will need a plunge saw and a plunge router. It is best if they can use guide rails. For sure you will need a CT. I have owned CT22 since 2006 and we just received our first CT36, which is about the same size. You will save money with a CT36 because for nearly the same price the bags are larger. That might not be a factor in a hobby situation, but needs to be considered when used for business.
I believe in the Domino, and even more so since the introduction of the 4mm Dominoes. We use those joining plywood as well as solid wood cases. I always suggest buying the accessories for the Domino, especially the assortment of Dominoes along with the cutters. Later you will buy Dominoes in packages. Having the Sortainer is very convenient, ensuring you always have the cutters and Dominoes handy.
Basic to making furniture and cabinets is sanding. The Festool advantage is the freedom from dust in your work space and the extra life you get from your paper. I own virtually all the Festool electric sanders and expect to but the RO 90 when it is available. Starting out, you might be happy concentrating on 5" 125mm paper. Later if you need extra power you can add 150mm sanders.
Only you know what you want to build and how you want to approach building that. Only you know your own experience with tools, as well as the opinions you have formed about tools.
Here in FOG we also come to the use of tools with varied backgrounds, desires and facilities.
Festool is a system. In an ideal world every Festool customer would be within an easy drive of an experienced physical dealer. I have considered myself blessed that for more years than either of us care to admit Jesse Barragan has been selling me fine woodworking tools and machines. Many years ago he opened Eagle Tools, now of Los Angeles, CA. Jesse has surrounded himself with experienced woodworkers on his staff, as well as a vast base of satisfied clients. We all welcome folks new to woodworking and Festool.
Fortunately those who do not live within a realistic drive of a Festool dealer have the services of Tom and Bob.
My suggestion is to do what is necessary to make use of the experience Bob and Tom have with all kinds of tools, especially Festools.
I do own a TS75 in addition to a trio of TS55. Honestly I hardly ever use my TS75, but a skilled cabinet maker working with me considers his own TS75 his basic plunge saw, so he uses mine far more than I do. We each work in different ways and have different body shapes.
From the late 1940s until the Kapex reached the USA I had made a lot of money with many kinds of radial arm and miter saws. I still own and use a very large RAS as well as a smaller 10" miter saw. Yet I was so impressed with demonstrations of the Kapex and word from friends in Europe that I placed an early pre-order. Currently I own 2 Kapex and a fellow working with me owns another. I had made face frames before I owned a Kapex, but since learning to use mine I would not try doing so on an ordinary saw. Still, I agree that even with your generous budget, there are many Festools I would buy ahead of a Kapex.
You will need a plunge saw and a plunge router. It is best if they can use guide rails. For sure you will need a CT. I have owned CT22 since 2006 and we just received our first CT36, which is about the same size. You will save money with a CT36 because for nearly the same price the bags are larger. That might not be a factor in a hobby situation, but needs to be considered when used for business.
I believe in the Domino, and even more so since the introduction of the 4mm Dominoes. We use those joining plywood as well as solid wood cases. I always suggest buying the accessories for the Domino, especially the assortment of Dominoes along with the cutters. Later you will buy Dominoes in packages. Having the Sortainer is very convenient, ensuring you always have the cutters and Dominoes handy.
Basic to making furniture and cabinets is sanding. The Festool advantage is the freedom from dust in your work space and the extra life you get from your paper. I own virtually all the Festool electric sanders and expect to but the RO 90 when it is available. Starting out, you might be happy concentrating on 5" 125mm paper. Later if you need extra power you can add 150mm sanders.
Sparktrician
Member
ccarrolladams said:
Concur!!! There's a "dealer" one mile from my home, yet I have never seen mention of this "dealer" anywhere on the FOG; he does not stock Festool goods as far as I can tell; yet Bob has been the greatest when it comes to fast delivery and answering questions. Service speaks loud and clear. Spend your bucks where the money is earned.
GPowers
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Chappy said:
You have a good list going. Like every one has said above, do not forget the accessories. If your breaking down sheet goods you will want a 3000mm Guide Rail and the parallel Guides, for the MFT/3 get some clamps and clamping elements, for the Domino get the systainer full of Dominoes with the cutters, for the router get the edge guide and the guide rail stop.
GPowers said:
I do have some extra guide rails, the domino systainer and router guides on my list, I just forgot(was too lazy) to write them down. [oops] I looked at the parallel guides and I guess I need to do a bit more research to grok their function properly. Think I also have the guiderail kit in there as well....
Jesse Cloud
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If you will be breaking down lots of sheet goods - the parallel guides will definitely "click" for you. The MFS is another tool that is hard to grok, but once it clicks you wonder what you ever did without it (but it doesn't have to be in the first truckload of Festool ;D).
ccarrolladams
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The selection of a long guide rail often comes down to personal choice. I got along very well for over 2 years with only 3 1400mm (55") rails and a set of couplers. I had no shop and often had to build projects in the shops of friends. One of those rails came with my first TS55. I had bough a second rail with the saw. Then I bought the third so I could use a pair connected to make rips breaking down sheets and the single rail for the cross-grain cuts. It was practical for me to transport those rails disconnected.
In mid 2008 I made room for projects in my condo. I bought a second TS55 and paid extra for the 2700mm rail. My reason was that In the smaller of my condo work rooms I could not walk around a rail longer than 2700mm. As soon as I started using a larger room as my send work space I bought the 3000mm rail. There is only a minor difference in price. It is possible the 3000mm rail needed to be dropped shipped from Festool USA. I do not remember.
Breaking down 8' sheets with a TS55, the 2700mm rail is just long enough. However, since the TS75 has a longer base, even 2 coupled 1400mm rails are not long enough. You would need at least a 1400 + 1900 (75") set, or better the 3000mm rail. You also will find the 1400mm rail slightly short for cross grain cuts on a 4' sheet using the TS75.
So, if you do decide on a TS75 allow some extra for the longer rails. I also strongly suggest using a 36mm AS hose on the TS75, although so far the 27mm AS hose works fine for me with the TS55.
In mid 2008 I made room for projects in my condo. I bought a second TS55 and paid extra for the 2700mm rail. My reason was that In the smaller of my condo work rooms I could not walk around a rail longer than 2700mm. As soon as I started using a larger room as my send work space I bought the 3000mm rail. There is only a minor difference in price. It is possible the 3000mm rail needed to be dropped shipped from Festool USA. I do not remember.
Breaking down 8' sheets with a TS55, the 2700mm rail is just long enough. However, since the TS75 has a longer base, even 2 coupled 1400mm rails are not long enough. You would need at least a 1400 + 1900 (75") set, or better the 3000mm rail. You also will find the 1400mm rail slightly short for cross grain cuts on a 4' sheet using the TS75.
So, if you do decide on a TS75 allow some extra for the longer rails. I also strongly suggest using a 36mm AS hose on the TS75, although so far the 27mm AS hose works fine for me with the TS55.
The parallel guides and extension for sheet goods. There are a 3 good videos here.
As for the TS55 versus the TS75 its really a matter of taste and how much depth of cut you need. The other factor is that if you are going to saw metal or really difficult woods then that pushes towards the 75.
As for the TS55 versus the TS75 its really a matter of taste and how much depth of cut you need. The other factor is that if you are going to saw metal or really difficult woods then that pushes towards the 75.
Kodi Crescent
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Add the shortest rail, the 75" rail, and 2 connectors with your TS 55. You'll have all the rails you need for breaking down sheet goods. Getting the short rail may sound like a joke, but it is very useful in limited space areas and for shorter cuts.
Sparktrician
Member
Kodi Crescent said:
The caveat here is to also buy a decent straightedge for the times when one joins two sections of guide rail in any length. The connectors do their job well, but don't always get the rail sections into absolute alignment every time. The straightedge comes in handy for aligning the sections of guide rail before tightening down the connectors' screws. One would also do well to check the location on the joined guide rails where the guide stop rides to be sure that the junction is sufficiently smooth to allow the guide stop to slide over the junction without hanging up or "stuttering" as it goes over the junction. I found that my two 1400mm sections of guide rail have a "good end" for such junctions, and have marked them so I can repeat the setup, but still have to use the straightedge to be sure that they're aligned dead on when cutting sheet goods.
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Rotex 150 is the best overall sander I've ever seen.
Tom
Tom
Bob Marino
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I think you may end up getting at least 2 Festool sanders...at one point or another. If you are thinking about just one, perhaps go for the versatlity the Rotex offers you. If it were me, and I would be sanding primarily with grits of 120 and higher, and money was a consideration initially, get the ETS 150/3. Smooth as they come.
Bob
Bob
Bob Marino
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GPowers said:
Easy mistake to make though.
Bob
Pete Pedisich
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I got an ETS 150/3 from Bob and it is as smooth as they say, but for me that's not the best part. I think the ergonomics, and how it gives you many grip options, is what makes it so easy to use for long periods. Combine that with almost perfect dust collection, and it is easily worth every penny. If you need more agressiveness, throw on some Cristal.
Just like heated seats in a car, for years I thought; "who needs that nonsense that is just gonna require costly repair in a few years?"
And now if I was getting a car I'd pay twice what they charge - no more car heater drying my sinuses like the Arizona desert, no more heat induced sleepiness, just warmth where you want it, not where you dont.
Just like heated seats in a car, for years I thought; "who needs that nonsense that is just gonna require costly repair in a few years?"
And now if I was getting a car I'd pay twice what they charge - no more car heater drying my sinuses like the Arizona desert, no more heat induced sleepiness, just warmth where you want it, not where you dont.
