DF500 calibration question

[tilmille]

Tried this on a different board and only got a single reply so though I would move it over here where there may be more traffic.

Just bought a DF500 and was pleased to find that the plastic centerline cursor was already dead-on.  Unfortunately, the  plastic stop latches (or edge stop dogs) that spring out of the face of the tool were slightly off.  I replaced one of them with the provided offset latch to solve the problem and it did improve it to within about 0.01 inches or 0.25 mm but I can still see and feel a slight offset or misalignment on the edge of my 2 joined boards.  My question is, can I do anything to get it dead on accurate or is this a margin of error I should plan to live with?

 

[Xoncention]

Tried this on a different board and only got a single reply so though I would move it over here where there may be more traffic.

Just bought a DF500 and was pleased to find that the plastic centerline cursor was already dead-on.  Unfortunately, the  plastic stop latches (or edge stop dogs) that spring out of the face of the tool were slightly off.  I replaced one of them with the provided offset latch to solve the problem and it did improve it to within about 0.01 inches or 0.25 mm but I can still see and feel a slight offset or misalignment on the edge of my 2 joined boards.  My question is, can I do anything to get it dead on accurate or is this a margin of error I should plan to live with?

Look on page 21 of your Tenon Joiner Supplemental User’s Manual and this explains how to adjust the eccentric bushing.

 

[tilmille]

I have the edge dogs rather than the pins.  Seems that all you can really do is replace the standard dog with the offset dog, and then hope you are close enough

 

[Xoncention]

I have the edge dogs rather than the pins.  Seems that all you can really do is replace the standard dog with the offset dog, and then hope you are close enough

The instructions say "To adjust the edge stop dogs, you replace the standard dog with one of the offset dogs. The offset dog is 0.006” (0.15mm) narrower than the standard dog, and you replace whichever dog resulted in the larger distance to the mortise."

 

[tilmille]

I did replace it, and I am still slightly off. Trying to figure out if there is one more level of fine adjustment I can make to here so it is EXACTLY the same distance from each of the edge dogs to the center rather than the 0.25MM that I still off after replacing one of the dogs with an offset dog.  My difference is less than it was, but I still can't get a totally flush edge  - I am still roughly 0.25MM off after doing what the instructions you are pointing to told me to do.  Very minute but you can still see and definitely feel it.  Maybe I am being too precise?

 

[Xoncention]

  Very minute but you can still see and definitely feel it.  Maybe I am being too precise?

You should not live with something that causes you any angst.  Perhaps you could try cutting some shim stock and affixing it to the side of the stop latch so that you find a thickness that passes the "touch" examination?

 

[tilmille]

That is kind of where I was headed.  Maybe some fine tape or something on the edge of one of the stops.  Was hoping there was something more precise I could dial in but I don't think it is in the design.

Thanks for your help and input.  I am sure my wife wishes I had this level of attention to detail and precision in other aspects of my life but unfortunately, it only seems to show up in my shop.

 

[Xoncention]

That is kind of where I was headed.  Maybe some fine tape or something on the edge of one of the stops.  Was hoping there was something more precise I could dial in but I don't think it is in the design.

Thanks for your help and input.  I am sure my wife wishes I had this level of attention to detail and precision in other aspects of my life but unfortunately, it only seems to show up in my shop.

Brass or steel shim stock will be more robust.  We all have these little challenges in our life that will not leave us in peace until we achieve a solution that we can live with.  It's the nature of the beast.  Sometimes it is a wise person who realizes that some things cannot be fixed simply without redesigning the item and out time would be better spent to get out of the shop and go smell the roses to refocus our perspective.

 

[JonSchuck]

Tilmille, I have the exact same problem.  I just live with it.  A few seconds with a sander smooths it right out.  Gluing a shim to the paddle might not let the paddle retract into the machine.  Not much clearance there. 

 

[tilmille]

thanks - I share that concern re: retracting in to the base.  I planned to take a really close look at things before messing with it.

 

[Birdhunter]

Just curious, but is there an operational problem with that degree of offset? I've had my 500 for a very long time and probably used the flip outs a couple of times. I just mark the mortise location with a pencil and use the narrow setting on one board and the medium setting on the other board. No need for extreme accuracy.

 

[JonSchuck]

Birdhunter.  I like to use the paddles for one narrow mortise on both pieces.  Then pencil lines for all narrow on one and all medium on the other.  That way they won't move while gluing and clamping.  Maybe I am missing something but, seems to me, you have one very expensive biscuit joiner. 

 

[tilmille]

Like I said, I am new to it so not completely experienced so maybe a user error.  I guess I just figured for the amount of $ I just spent, I could dial in to perfection.  Seems like you could with the old pin style but for whatever reason, they went to the paddles which do not allow for it.

 

[JonSchuck]

I agree tilmille, I would like mine perfect also.  At least you only had to adjust yours once.  I, of course, adjusted the wrong side first.

 

[grbmds]

Like I said, I am new to it so not completely experienced so maybe a user error.  I guess I just figured for the amount of $ I just spent, I could dial in to perfection.  Seems like you could with the old pin style but for whatever reason, they went to the paddles which do not allow for it.

I never had any calibration problems with the Domino. Took it out of the sustainer, checked it according to instructions in the manual, and it was essentially perfect. Was it perfect in the sense that it was truly "perfect". I guess not. However, when I glue up parts, they match perfectly and so much better than before the Domino came into my life (and I have always been a perfectionist when it comes to fit and final product).

To be honest, I though about adjusting it when I did my first test, but then realized that there is no way I could get it closer and that, what I was seeing was actually much better than the fits before I bought the Domino. Any project I have used it on has come out to my satisfaction. Wood moves before, during, and after the end result comes into existence. Therefore, what is perfect today might not be tomorrow (within limits of course).

On the other hand, you should not have to add any shims or make any non-manual specified adjustments to the Domino to get it where you believe it should be. If it's not the tool you expected, return it. You are right, it should be what you expected for the price. It has always been more than I expected. For me, it's my favorite tool of any I own (all other Festools included). I hope it ends up being that for you also.

 

[Bohdan]

I have the edge dogs rather than the pins.  Seems that all you can really do is replace the standard dog with the offset dog, and then hope you are close enough

The other option is to file the opposite dog down. A few strokes with a fine file or sandpaper and you should be able to get it perfect.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

That is kind of where I was headed.  Maybe some fine tape or something on the edge of one of the stops.  Was hoping there was something more precise I could dial in but I don't think it is in the design.

Thanks for your help and input.  I am sure my wife wishes I had this level of attention to detail and precision in other aspects of my life but unfortunately, it only seems to show up in my shop.

Brass or steel shim stock will be more robust.  We all have these little challenges in our life that will not leave us in peace until we achieve a solution that we can live with.  It's the nature of the beast.  Sometimes it is a wise person who realizes that some things cannot be fixed simply without redesigning the item and out time would be better spent to get out of the shop and go smell the roses to refocus our perspective.

Are you a marriage counselor?  [tongue]

 

[tilmille]

Great idea Bohdan - it hadn't occurred to me to subtract from one side rather than add to another.  I will see if I can summon up the courage to take a file to my new toy, but I like the idea.

 

[Milvus]

Hello.

I bough a second hand Domino with the pin style fence. I had the same problem but I could adjust one of the pins by roating its bush. It improved but I wasn't perfect. It did bother me a little until I forgot about it. The step is so little that I don't notice it if I'm not looking for it.

But when I realize about it I don't like it. Just two passes with a hand plane and it is over.

Regards.

 

[Birdhunter]

Using to narrow mortises on opposing sides still seems to be inducing an unnecessary degree of difficulty. The narrow-wider technique eliminates the need for a perfect alignment. I butt the boards up against a fence if I'm worried about them not matching at the ends. Mostly I don't worry about a perfect match and trim the boards after they are glued up.