Domino and Paperstone CT

[EcoFurniture]

I was wondering if anyone ever used the domino on Paperstone counter top material?  I'm sure it will work, as that material can be cut,shaped and sanded like wood, but I'm concerned that the bit may get too hot and will get dull faster.

Just wondering......

Thanks a lot,

Andreas

 

[tvogel400]

Ecofurniture

I installed several paperstone counter tops last year and the fabricators had put three little dominos in all the joining edges. I remember that the dominos

where sloppy- actually quite useless for registration or strength- and I wasn't the one cutting them so I can't answer you there. I have absolutely no

experiance with the domino.

I can say that the paperstone cut well with the ts55 and the 48 tooth blade, keep the blade speed at 6 and you'll only be able to push so hard- i.e that stuff

is really tough. I really like it, some day when I can afford myself I would love to use it in my kitchen.

Paperstone is really fricken heavy.

Paperstone is really expensive last july it was around $32 a sq ft.

The dust is really nasty- good thing you've gone festool.

Paperstone appears to be  really durable, I have had a 2' x 4" x .75" piece of it riding in the open box of my pickup for almost exactly one year and it shows

no serious changes even seemingly resisting abrading/abrasion quite well in the hockey rink I call my pickup truck bed.

Tell us what you are doing please.

T-bone

 

[Holzhacker]

Haven't used a domino on paperstone. Have used my regular biscuit cutter on Richlite countertops. Didn't seem to affect the blade at all. Are you wondering about this because of saw blade experience? Any of these recycled tops, in my experience, eat through blades. I think it is because the materials are so dense and the heat build-up. I don't rely on the biscuits for strength. I put them in to ensure the planes don't move up or down differently over time.
I agree the material is very heavy. Nice products but not cheap. I have richlite and icestone in our kitchen. Luckily I could fabricate, otherwise too expensive.
Good luck.

 

[EcoFurniture]

Thanks for your help!
I have a kitchen to be done and my client picked paper stone as a CT. i quoted the 3/4 thickness, anything thicker will be big $$$$$ . So far I'm hoping to get away with 3 full sheets for over $2800 total!
Because I don't want to take any chances, I'm only doing butt joints and no miters... At the end ,after everything is sanded and waxed, you won't be able to see the difference anyway ;D

I wished I would have a sample to try out the strength of the joints before hand....

Cheers,
Andreas

 

[Evergreen]

I did a paperstone install last year.  All the festools worked great, but I'd test the domino before trying it on the finished piece.  It's incredibly hard.  I have a feeling it will wander or simply mess up the cutter.  I did all butt joints as well.  The biggest problem we had was with a natural bow in the sheet and slight different thicknesses.  It was a real pain getting the joints to match up perfectly with each other because of the bow and hair width differences in height.  Be sure to orientate the bows.  If you sand the joints to much it causes clouding and looks like sheet.  We used a 1/4" drill bit for the corners and simply cut to the hole.  You can shape the corners beautifully by sanding.  I laminated a piece to the front of the entire top to give it a larger nosing.  Glued with epoxy and cut to final with the TS 55.  The rotex finished it beautifully.  Looked great!

 

[rnt80]

Andreas, I've never done a whole kitchen so you can take this for what it's worth, but is there any reason you couldn't use these?  All you have to do is make a simple little jig to route out the recesses.

 

[EcoFurniture]

Can't use those.... as they are designed for 1.5" thick counter tops, mine will only be 3/4" .  I also don't want to drag too many of my festools to the job site... If I have to bring the router--I also have to bring the MFT....

 

[Brice Burrell]

Can't use those.... as they are designed for 1.5" thick counter tops, mine will only be 3/4" .  I also don't want to drag too many of my festools to the job site... If I have to bring the router--I also have to bring the MFT....

With your 3/4" stock you don't have to rout them in, you could glue blocks on the bottom to attach the bolts.

....I wished I would have a sample to try out the strength of the joints before hand....

Cheers,
Andreas

The manufacturer, sales rep or distributor won't give you samples? 

 

[EcoFurniture]

Can't use those.... as they are designed for 1.5" thick counter tops, mine will only be 3/4" .  I also don't want to drag too many of my festools to the job site... If I have to bring the router--I also have to bring the MFT....

With your 3/4" stock you don't have to rout them in, you could glue blocks on the bottom to attach the bolts.

....I wished I would have a sample to try out the strength of the joints before hand....

Cheers,
Andreas

The manufacturer, sales rep or distributor won't give you samples?   

Good idea about the blocks!!! Thanks for the tip  ;D

The manufacturer only sells these samples... They are quite expensive and are not big enough to do any work on them... Anyhow, I still have 4 weeks till I have to work with the PST, I hope to get my hands on a couple of cut offs by then.

Cheers,
Andreas

 

[tvogel400]

Ecofurniture

I use those draw bolts in .75" stock all the time.

The lever ones as shown require a .5625" mortise to be flush with the bottom.

The ones I use-also available at fastcap- only need .4375" although I'll usually go .5", these tighten up with a .4375" wrench.

These are great you can get really tight joints.

Good call rt80.

T-bone