Domino XL hits the US...

>:(  Argh!  I'm already way past the half hour I take -but here I go getting sucked in again...   [laughing]

I, too have glued up some test pieces,  only had a chance to test one 8mm joint and one 14mm joint...

I use a hydraulic press for my "volunteers" -and I am careful as possible about keeping all things equal for accurate interpretation

I'll have a camera setup for the full testing sequence,  but for a reference and a brief description:
Hard Maple-Cope & Stick joint, -the cope and stick profile shatters and splinters most of the joint remains, but the joinery area is toast

6mm dominos  AND the 8mm I tried this AM, the wood broke behind the mortise with the grain,  nothing cross-grain

14mil by 140mm, something surprised me,  the ram penetrated through the assembly and blew out the bottom.  looks like it was blasted with a 10ga slug!  any thoughts on this?  

 
Folks, I realy apprecaite the M&T education.  It was..., ah..., educational.??? [cool]
 
When the goal is to create the strongest joint, then you need to make sure that all aspects of strength are equal. In other words, you do not want to have a weak link in the chain. If you take away strength from one component to bolster another, then you create a weak link. The entire joint then becomes no stronger than the weak link.

An example of this is discussed in the Domino DF500 Manual. If your tenon is harder/stronger than the substrate material, then you should reduce the thickness of the strong tenon to improve the strength of the soft substrate. Ideally, at failure, both the substrate and tenon would fail simultaneously.

Another example I brought up a few posts above is regarding wide tenons. The wide tenon remains very strong, but the substrate of the wide mortise becomes very weak. Spreading the mortise/tenons out to leave a little webbing between them keeps all three components at a similar strength. The mortise is no longer the dramatic weak link.
 
VictorL said:
Did not get it either.
Click to expand...

Hi Victor.  If the part you didn't understand was why I cared about floating vs traditional tenons, my concern was appearance, not strength.  I'm satisfied that I can design any piece of furniture to be adequately strong for normal use with a floating tenon.  That leaves as my only concern the oval cross-section of the domino rather than the rectangular cross-section of a traditional through-tenon.

I prefer the appearance of a rectangular cross section, but not all that much, so I'm not sure whether I'll expend the time and effort to square the ends with a chisel and make my own rectangular tenon stock.  (BTW, I'm not the biggest fan of James Krenov, but some of his furniture had through-tenons with oval cross-sections.)

I guess I could have been a lot more clear about what I meant.  After all, a traditional tenon can have an oval cross-section, and a floating tenon can have a rectangular cross section, even though they typically they don't.  Sorry for your understandable confusion over my poor writing.

Regards,

John
 
I do not know to date device or machine that with such ease and precision will be able to raise the door of this design
in place of plywood will be glass. and the door anymore.
a small sample for the customer.
 
John Stevens said:
That leaves as my only concern the oval cross-section of the domino rather than the rectangular cross-section of a traditional through-tenon.

I prefer the appearance of a rectangular cross section, but not all that much, so I'm not sure whether I'll expend the time and effort to square the ends with a chisel and make my own rectangular tenon stock.
Click to expand...

I'm sure its been mentioned before, but you can create fake through tenons if you use the Domino to make hidden loose tenons.  Just rout and square up a small rectangle where the tenon would go through the piece.  1/8 to 1/4" deep is enough.  Then glue in a thin piece of wood with end grain showing.  Extra work to create the appearance of a through tenon.  But likely easier than cutting a through tenon with the Domino and then trying to accurately square up the corners for a real square tenon to fit.
 
RussellS said:
John Stevens said:
That leaves as my only concern the oval cross-section of the domino rather than the rectangular cross-section of a traditional through-tenon.

I prefer the appearance of a rectangular cross section, but not all that much, so I'm not sure whether I'll expend the time and effort to square the ends with a chisel and make my own rectangular tenon stock.
Click to expand...

I'm sure its been mentioned before, but you can create fake through tenons if you use the Domino to make hidden loose tenons.  Just rout and square up a small rectangle where the tenon would go through the piece.  1/8 to 1/4" deep is enough.  Then glue in a thin piece of wood with end grain showing.  Extra work to create the appearance of a through tenon.  But likely easier than cutting a through tenon with the Domino and then trying to accurately square up the corners for a real square tenon to fit.
Click to expand...

I'm building a Arts & Crafts style coffee table this week. I had originally planned all traditional through tenons, but when I got the XL I thought of using it and making false fronts for the through tenons.

It's great to see I actually had a good idea that others have thought of too! [big grin]
 
Rembo said:
I do not know to date device or machine that with such ease and precision will be able to raise the door of this design
in place of plywood will be glass. and the door anymore.
a small sample for the customer.
Click to expand...

Rembo,

That is a great idea!! The split rails would also allow you to pre-finish before installing the glass.

Thanks
Gerry
 
Thank you. I show you and also learn from you. that's all built.
I will also join trims and glue them to the studio. and paste them, and not to hammer nails.
 
bellchippy said:
Rembo

Very nice and crisp work, what are the other mortises for?.
Click to expand...
The fact is that I'm still trying to option .. but it can shoot at any moment! [wink]
 
My guess is $1225 since it is a close relative to the current Domino.  Perhaps I'm just wishful dreaming [big grin]
 
jacko9 said:
My guess is $1225 since it is a close relative to the current Domino.  Perhaps I'm just wishful dreaming [big grin]
Click to expand...

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-sales-dealer-area/domino-xl-df-700-and-more/

From the Sales & Dealer Area forum.  Posted by Bob Marino.

Available June 1, Festool will be releasing the Domino XL DF 700 joiner for sale in the good'ol' USA.

  Domino Joiner            574 422 @ $1200.00.
  Domino Joiner set      574 447 @ $1250.00.

Also a new Syslight worklamp 498 568 @$175.00

Last, but not least the Surfix Finishing Applicator Set 490 063 @$145.00. This is used for applying oil and rubbing out those oil finishes. Comes in its own systainer.

More info coming very soon, as well as pre-order info.

  Bob
 
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