door plane?

Just watched the video. Cool jig! I like it it would work with my frames.  Would not work with existing frames though or frames done by trades  who dont care. Lol

Jmb
 
That's a pretty wild contraption he's got there.  I just sent the link over to Gary Katz for his take on it.  This is definitely something JMB is running out to get while I'm typing this!  [big grin]
 
Gary just emailed me back.  He says he loved it, ingenious, but if the jamb has a belly or a bow in it, the jig won't work.
 
Nigel said:
tdfiver said:
If I have to use my El65 then I fit the chip bag. But since getting the Ts55 I don't use the plane any more.

Good man!But we seem to be in the minority [huh]

You're not alone.  I literally have not touched my planer since I bought the TS55.  JMB, I've installed a few doors, plenty of them in an old openings.  I see the planer as old school.
 
Brice, maybe your post should also go in the classified section.  [tongue]

"1 freshly buffed Festool power hand planer for sale.  Shiny with a slippery index of 95.  Sample squirt bottle of Armor All included."
 
Brice Burrell said:
Nigel said:
tdfiver said:
If I have to use my El65 then I fit the chip bag. But since getting the Ts55 I don't use the plane any more.

Good man!But we seem to be in the minority [huh]

You're not alone.  I literally have not touched my planer since I bought the TS55.  JMB, I've installed a few doors, plenty of them in an old openings.  I see the planer as old school.

Old frames can still be decent enough but most are not. Well I use my TS55 for the top and bottom and sides if it needs 5mm or more off the door but I don't believe you can leave a good edge if you needed to take 1/2mm to 1mm/2mm on parts of the door where the frame bowes or something you will end up leaving saw marks how do you put a little bow into the side of the door to match the frame with the TS?

Old school Brice? It has A motor cnt be old school. Well this must be dead old then I use my block plane sometimes doing doors when I cnt be bothered to get my smoothin plane which is always lol.

Jmb
 
I never have to install a door but when I had to paint something it happened many times that I had to plane sticking doors and windows to size. The EHL 65 worked great for that.
 
vid looks ok but would wonder if the jamb was out a lot. i think jmb is right about needing a planer. a ts wont create a curve to match the jamb. if the door needed to be riped by 5mm then a ts would work for a straight jamb .

can any body translate that foreign site , how much will jmb have to pay.
 
I asked Michael MA if he could translate it, but I haven't heard back.  Maybe Alex could?
 
Alan m said:
vid looks ok but would wonder if the jamb was out a lot. i think jmb is right about needing a planer. a ts wont create a curve to match the jamb. if the door needed to be riped by 5mm then a ts would work for a straight jamb .

can any body translate that foreign site , how much will jmb have to pay.

Yip!  The jig only takes certain points from the frame so if the frame was out a lot the jig would would not work I like the idea though it's mint and using a short rail will help if the frame is slightly bowed in the middle.

If I was to get the jig and use it on an old frame and I would have to checked to frame with my level and see if the frame had a lot of curves going on I believe the jig could still help.

You could just push the jig against the frame on the three points with out using a packer so the door would b a snug fit then using your PLANNER to give the door some curves to match the frame.  The jig helps with the hard part.  Cus I think the hard part is when the head is out of level and the floor is out of level and the sides are out of plumb different ways from each other. Is to get to door looking right. 

So using the jig will give you a good start cus from what I have seen you can jiggle the frame about on the door to even the amount needed to be taken of each side. .

I wonder what size doors it does.

Some doors have raised beads panels so the jig might not lay flat properly.

Jmb
 
I can speak dutch [tongue]

 

Maatbereik kleine Framefitter: Small frame fitter
 
Deurbreedte: width of door
min 780 mm
max 1060mm
 
Deurhooghte: door height
min: 1960 mm
max 2180 mm

Maatbereik grote Framefitter: large frame fitter
 
Deurbreedte: door width
min  780 mm
max 1060mm
 
Deurhoogte:door height
min  2170 mm
max 2390 mm

 
Ken Nagrod said:
I asked Michael MA if he could translate it, but I haven't heard back.  Maybe Alex could?

just read you email ken, not sure if i understand right, what you want to get translated... maybe you have a link, or more detailed explanation - please understand - i'm blond :)
 
Michael, that was funny.  The video that's in this thread has wording or sub-titles if you want to call it that.  The wording pops up occasionally through the video, but we English as a first, second and third language people need it translated.

Thanks.
 
Ken Nagrod said:
Michael, that was funny.  The video that's in this thread has wording or sub-titles if you want to call it that.  The wording pops up occasionally through the video, but we English as a first, second and third language people need it translated.

Thanks.
No problem Ken, i do my very best.. but since i'm not so universal as JMB - i asked my dear friend Mr.Bing to translate: (he is also not fluently dutch speaking as me - but he tried hard :))
http://www.microsofttranslator.com/BV.aspx?ref=IE8Activity&a=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theframefitter.nl%2Fhome.htm

kind regards, Mike
 
I probably dont hang as many doors as you guys do. The last door I hung in a excisting frame I used the TS 55 w guide rail. I set the door on its side on 2 MFT3's.  It put a awesome clean bevel on the door, and then I set up the door on edge and routed the hinges.

Hey its all personal preferance, but it what works for me.
 
Ken Nagrod said:
jmbfestool said:
I can speak dutch [tongue]

...but can you yodel?

We have no mountains, so we don't yodel. You need to get yourself some lederhosen and visit Austria for that.

Ken Nagrod said:
Michael, that was funny.  The video that's in this thread has wording or sub-titles if you want to call it that.  The wording pops up occasionally through the video, but we English as a first, second and third language people need it translated.

Thanks.

Here you go:

0:09  1. Place the FrameFitter in the middle of the door frame.
0:17  ... and lock it in place with the top and bottom supports.
0:25  2. Decide how much play you want between the door and its frame.
0:38  3. Place a spacer card and extend the sliding arm ...
0:40  and lock the arm into place.
0:45  And repeat this for all arms.
1:45  4. When you've extended all arms ...
1:51  remove all spacer cards.
2:00  5. Now lower the top support...
2:11  6. Remove the FrameFitter from the door frame.
2:23  7. Lay the door down on supports..
2:27  and place the FrameFitter on top of it.
2:48  8. Connect the guiderails to the FrameFitter.
3:04  9a. Adjust the bevel on the saw to 2% ...
3:08  in order to have a nice beveled cut.
3:17  9b. Cut the door to size in one go.
5:04  10. The door is exactly the right size.
5:15  The FrameFitter - Patented by Marcel Ruiter.
5:26  Sold through De Jong en Roos - www.jrs.nl

Alan m said:
can any body translate that foreign site , how much will jmb have to pay.

Here you go:

Fitting a door is an accurate job that takes a lot of time, effort and skill. The FrameFitter makes fitting a door an easy job and doors can be made to size quickly, accurately and without heavy lifting. Door frames are never entirely square, straight or uniform. To fit a door correctly you need to saw and plane every single door to size. With traditional tools this can take a tradesman an average of 45 minutes. The door has to be lifted up til 4 times and placed in the frame to measure what you have to cut off. All this lifting and the risk of cuting off too much makes fitting a door not one of the more populair jobs of the average carpenter. 

With The FrameFitter this is history!

The patented system has a frame with extending arms through which the size of the door frame can be measured. Once measured The FrameFitter is placed on top of the door and is cut to size along the guiderail. And in less than 15 minutes! Fast, safe and easy.

The FrameFitter offers comfort, speed and security for each contractor and carpenter who regularly has to fit doors. The FrameFitter was judged by contractors and carpenters as very good in a large field test.

SEE PICTURES & MANUALS FOR MORE INFORMATION.

SEE QUESTION & SALES WHERE TO ORDER THE FRAMEFITTER OR GO TO WWW.JRS.NL

I didn't see  anything about pricing on that site though.
 
Thanks, Alex.  The yodeling reference was not meant to be associated with the Netherlands.  I was just curious if JMB had that in his repetoire as well.  He seems to be quite the well-rounded chap, especially his circus skills.
 
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