Down with the old & Up with the new

[festal]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member]  Corrected. I believe I'm done what output do you want these in? DXF?

Let me know if you got any more napkins

 

[rvieceli]

Hey [member=44099]Cheese[/member] do you think those hole placements and sizes are the same across the product line? Or would have to keep checking the placements on each box.

Ron

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member]  Corrected. I believe I'm done what output do you want these in? DXF?

Let me know if you got any more napkins

Thanks a ton [member=71889]festal[/member]  [thumbs up] [thumbs up]

The .dxf file format is preferable.  [cool]

 

[festal]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member]  Corrected. I believe I'm done what output do you want these in? DXF?

Let me know if you got any more napkins

Thanks a ton [member=71889]festal[/member]  [thumbs up] [thumbs up]

The .dxf file format is preferable.  [cool]

Here you gohttps://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/zhfu...e-v1.dxf?rlkey=x76r3num68bf7p5i7fn2lbu0e&dl=0

 

[Cheese]

Hey [member=44099]Cheese[/member] do you think those hole placements and sizes are the same across the product line? Or would have to keep checking the placements on each box.

Ron

I'd say yes as that way they could use the same molds to manufacture either vertical or horizontal boxes and just swap out the mold inserts that were different. It's also a good insurance policy if a press operator accidentally crashes a mold.  [eek]

 

[rvieceli]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] time for a road trip?

Clausing 2277 for $900 near Wausau WI
https://www.facebook.com/share/1ER2xgtzTr/

Ron

 

[Cheese]

Thanks for the heads-up Ron [member=3192]rvieceli[/member] .  [big grin]

I'll give them a buzz.

 

[Cheese]

It's been a few months since I've written about this project but rest assured...it's still an active project. I'll be adding to this thread more often now because there are many updates but they just haven't been documented yet.

So, a major annoyance is that the Hardie Plank® Lap Siding that was installed on the garage is starting to lift in the areas where the lap siding is butt jointed. Not all butt joints are lifting but I'd surmise that it's at the 20% to 25% level.
Here are a couple of photos that show that the worst case is a 5mm to 9mm lift.

On the other hand, some butt joints are still tight and absolutely flat so go figure.

I talked with the James Hardie folks and they suggested that I use their pin-back method to solve this dilemma. Drill a hole 1" from the end of the butt joint and 1" from the bottom edge of the lap siding and install a stainless fastener through the 2 layers of lap siding. Nail the fastener flush but do not recess it into the siding. Drilling the pin-back holes is important because otherwise fracturing the Hardie Plank® Lap Siding is likely.

The drill bits are solid carbide which lasts a lot longer than the HSS bits that one usually uses...they are also $13 each.

 

[Mini Me]

In Oz where Hardie Plank was first developed I believe there are cover strips that go over the butt joint and hold it flat and also weather proof it against water entry.

 

[luvmytoolz]

@Cheese If you can pull them out a little and insert the "H" molds Mini Me mentioned, they will protect the ends. Hardie planks are a fantastic product, but unprotected they will actually deteriorate quite badly on the exposed edges over time.

You could even get away with not using adhesive or pinning them to the wall if you really didn't want to bother, as just using the joiners alone will dramatically improve the lifespan.

 

[Cheese]

Thanks for the info guys... ...I'll check in with Hardie and ask them about that option. As I said though, some ends move and some butt joints are absolutely solid.

 

[Mini Me]

In Oz I believe you can buy the H Moulding in lengths and then cut to suit.

 

[luvmytoolz]

In Oz I believe you can buy the H Moulding in lengths and then cut to suit.

Bunnings has them! I lined my shed ceiling with MDF laminate sheet and used the H moulding to join them all to make it much easier to screw in overhead.

 

[Cheese]

@Mini Me @luvmytoolz
I had a discussion with Hardie and they stated that while the "H connector" was a preferred joining method in the early 2000's, it's now fallen to 3rd (last) place and they really don't push it as an option. They mentioned there were aesthetic issues with the connector along with deterioration issues if it wasn't properly sealed. They came back to recommending the pin-back method to solve my problem.

I can certainly understand the aesthetic issue as I was sent this photo.

At any rate, the pin-back method it is so I performed that task on one of the butt joints just to see how well it works and how noticeable it is. After a coat of primer and 2 top-coats of paint, this pin-back fix will not even be noticed from a distance greater than a few feet away.

 

[Mini Me]

Interesting, certainly that is not the case here. The butt joint while stopping heavy water ingress would still not be totally watertight and I would seal it and that be result in a far better appearance. How did you treat the corner joins?

 

[luvmytoolz]

@Cheese I'm really surprised by that, it's always been my experience that edges exposed to weather and particularly water runoff tends to lift and deteriorate quite badly over time despite any fixing methods.

 

[peter halle]

Interesting, certainly that is not the case here. The butt joint while stopping heavy water ingress would still not be totally watertight and I would seal it and that be result in a far better appearance. How did you treat the corner joins?

In a proper Hardiplank installation there is supposed to be a piece of waterproof thin material behind the butt joints to prevent water infiltration.

Peter

 

[Cheese]

What Peter said...

Actually, that's the proper method to install any wood bevel siding. A number of years ago I completely resided the house using 100% clear, vertical grain cedar bevel lap siding. That stuff is truly a thing of unbelievable beauty. I almost cried when I had to start back-priming the siding before the installation. The siding was installed with 6D x 2" long 304 SST ring shank nails with 6" wide pieces of tar paper placed under every butt joint. That's pretty much the same formula that Hardie recommends.

 

[Mini Me]

@Cheese I'm really surprised by that, it's always been my experience that edges exposed to weather and particularly water runoff tends to lift and deteriorate quite badly over time despite any fixing methods.

Pretty much my experience also.