Easiest Way to Cut Lengthwise -- Where to clamp the rails?

jylu97

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Joined
May 3, 2008
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16
I'm trying to cut long thin strips off of narrow 6' to 10' boards with my TS55 and guiderails.  I tried to move the guiderail on my MFT3 to span across the length, but then the brackets holding the rail get in the way of the board itself.  I ended up only clamping the very end of the guiderail to the board and not clamping the other end at all because it would be in the way of the path of the saw.  What is the easiest way to clamp the rails to the boards?

Thanks.

Liz
 
Hey Liz, welcome to the FOG! For your task I'd suggest getting a pair of the clamps (part number 489570) and use them to clamp the guide rail to the board. You can clamp from underneath so that the saw doesn't bump against them.

Poto
 
If you're not looking for extreme precision, I've had success cutting with the guide rail, without clamping it down at all.  If you support your workpiece and rails well (i.e. flat), the rubber strips under the guide rail hold the piece and rail in place really well.  I've worked on pieces that are longer than the guide rail, and with some care in aligning the rail to the cutline, I can move the rail along the length and make repeated cuts. 

If your workpiece is narrower than the guide rail, I place a second piece of wood of same thickness behind the workpiece, to keep the guide rail flat.  If that is the case, you can clamp that support piece down (as a "fence") so that you limit differential movement between the 3 elements (workpiece, support piece and guide rail)

If you're looking for extreme precision, buy a longer guide rail (at least 6" longer than your work piece), or buy the guide rail connectors and a second guide rail (so the sum of the two guide rails is longer than the longest piece you would like to cut).  Extend the rail past both ends of the work piece, and clamp from underneath.

The beauty of the guide rail, is that the rubber splinter guard is right on the cut line!  Even without clamping the guide rail down, I find I get greater precision out of this system than most other methods of working. 

 
Another welcome to you. Cannuck gave you good advice. Here is how I do it:
fes-pa23.jpg


You can find t hat here:http://www.woodshopdemos.com/fes-par-1.htm

There is a long list of Festool stories and methods here:http://www.woodshopdemos.com/men-fes.htm

 
Know anyone with a tablesaw? 
I know, I am now blackballed and all my posts will be deleted. 
But really, it has to be easier...
 
Liz, spend some time on John Lucus' website woodshopdemos.com.  He and his assistants demonstrate some great methods for using Festool plunge cut saws that are both accurate and safe.  I especially like using the foam insulation board to support the work during the cut and his measuring techniques that use stair stops, like you use on a framing square, with aluminum rules to get repetitive measurements.  I have used this process to make both rip as well as cross cuts when building cabinets with great success.  Be prepared to spend hours on his site, there is a lot of valuable information and time saving tips.
 
Hi,

   Also see this thread with pics of how I do that cut  cutting strips on narrow boards . If everything is flat and well supported you probably don't even need to clamp. Cutting long pieces is easier if the cutting surface is at least as long as the board.  An inexpensive cutting surface that can be used on the floor if  needed is a sheet of foam insulation board.  Also if you do a search on here for cutting table  anbd another for narrow strip cutting  you will get lots of info and a variety of methods.

Seth
 
Thank you -- I'll look into getting the parallel guide.  Every time I need to do anything in the house I end up buying another Festool product (sigh).  I might as well get a Systainer port, router, Domino, planer, etc... along with the Kapex, cover plate and parallel guide for the TS55.  Is there anything else I'm missing, LOL!  Seriously, I'm glad the parallel guide exists -- it will make my life easier. ;D

Liz
 
Well, it is all designed to be used as a system... ;D

I believe in the archives there is a picture of a simple jig for cutting narrow strips.  If John doesn't have one, let me know and I'll find it for you.
 
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