Edge sanding cabinet doors

My Newton edge sander cost less then a RO125. 

Sometimes it pays to think about doing it without a Festool. 

Just sayin.
 
sancho57 said:
scott,

I havent face jointed timber since the college woodshop class I took 17 years ago. at OCC.

I buy my wood S2S straight lined ripped from Austins or Reel and really have had no problems.

That was the reason I originally bought the jointer about 10 years or so ago. 

Hey I found a 850 planer on craigslist looks like new condition for $400 in a systainer in HB.

I sent the guy a email and gave him my phone number if it was still available.

I bet its not, the good stuff goes faster then the festool end user classes

Hey Sancho,

I saw that posting...looked like a nice unit and I agree, this stuff goes in a short time. Interested to know if you get it...I hope it works out for you.  If not, you can always buy new.  I have not been as lucky in my wood purchases and find that I have to face joint everything before planning to thickness...maybe it is just me or how I go through the milling steps but that is what works for me.  I used to try and skip that step and go right to planning but I never got consistent results...some boards would just be off by a little and make other steps more problematic.

Scot
 
Joe,

Clamp a stack of your doors or drawers together or even use a piece of scrap stock to "widen the sanding surface" and use your RO 90.

Jack
 
jacko9 said:
Joe,

Clamp a stack of your doors or drawers together or even use a piece of scrap stock to "widen the sanding surface" and use your RO 90.

Jack

Where do you get your timber from?

I go between Reel and Austins.

Take my time and pick through the piles.

site them for straightness.

Hey I did get the planer. It looked brand freaking new. Now even dust on the body, nothing the seller said the blades were the original and they looked brand new too.

He said he got it for one job a year ago and used it once and hasnt used it since.

Sometimes the lords of tooling smile at me. not to often but sometimes.

now i got to go buy the fence and cradle for it.

Ill get that from the local brick and mortar

meanwhile keep checking craigslist I just found a TS55 for $375in LA area..

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/tls/3100694581.html

I dont need it but if someone else would like it
 
Well I bought the RTS400 and did a few doors.  Did not like it one bit.  Not sure why but the finish was not that great.  Broke out the RO90 and when I was done was very happy.

Returned the RTS400!

One thing I did notice is that even with the suction turned all the way down on my 26 the rts400 could lift wood off my work bench.  Might account for the finish not being that great.  Could not figure how to get the 26 to suck less?

Oh well.  Thanks for the advice
 
That is why they have the 30 day test...to see if it works for you.  The Orbitals do take a little bit of time to get used to and handle differently than the RO sanders, but they do leave an exceptional finish and you do need to work up through the grits.  If the RO90 worked for you, then stick with it -- it is an awesome sander too and no sense adding another tool that you will not use to your arsenal. 

Scot
 
For edge sanding I have been going low tech, adhesive backed sandpaper stuck to my cast iron tablesaw top then just run the door over the sandpaper. Because the cast iron is flat, the door edge stays flat with no roll over like I sometimes get using a ROS. If it feels wobbly you can use the tablesaw fence to keep the piece at a 90 degree angle or even make a sacrificial fence if you want something higher to slide the door against.

It only works with reasonable sized pieces though so if you have a tall cabinet door or something it's tough to use this technique.

No dust collection though :)
Just an idea for you.
-Jim
 
Was just thinking, wont a sanding drum for a planer thicknesser work great for this task?
 
Back
Top