Entrance Door Repair w/ Dominos?

Mike Goetzke

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Jul 12, 2008
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My son bought a "new to him" house. The strike plate screws have been applied/removed/drilled many times have worn out the wood to a point that they don't hold well anymore. I was originally going to mortise out the material with a router and template and replace with a filler block. Then I had a thought "why not use my Domino?" I have the XL so could easily mortise a slot to cover the screw hole area.

Think this will work?

Thanks,

Mike
 
A photo would help to tell more, but glueing in dominos (and flush cut them when dried) so that you can set the screws into them instead of the swiss cheese of what is left of the original wood in that location... should be no problem at all.
 
Sounds like an elegant solution to me. Just be careful there is nothing hidden in the wood, and that you don’t plunge too far, resulting in cutter damage.
 
If it's just stripped out holes, I'd think a plain ole 1/4" or 3/8" drill bit (or whatever size that is larger than the holes) to size the hole, then glue a length of that size dowel in there... or is it truly multiple holes or 'swiss cheese' like Gregor said.
 
Tony from Pandora said:
If it's just stripped out holes, I'd think a plain ole 1/4" or 3/8" drill bit (or whatever size that is larger than the holes) to size the hole, then glue a length of that size dowel in there... or is it truly multiple holes or 'swiss cheese' like Gregor said.

I see this problem fairly often.  I'll use Tony's method if there are several holes close together that don't allow me to get a good bite into the wood.  If there is only one, and the surrounding wood is fine, I'll just glue and hammer in a 1/8" or 3/16" dowel (the 3/16" dowel may need to be shaved down some with a utility knife to fit).

I'd try the Domino if the problem area is too large for a 1/2" dowel using Tony's method.   
 
I'd be concerned that there might not be enough "meat" for the dominoes to get a sound grip on surrounding material.  I think I'd rather cut out the damaged area, then make a deadman deep enough to meet the closest framing and screw it to the framing for better strength before mortising in for the strike plate and bolt.  YMMV...
 
Thanks for all the great quick replies. I don't have access to the pictures right now but  looks like the previous owner could done an easy dowel repair but instead kept drilling additional holes close to the original. So I'll see if the frame has enough meat for the domino to glue into otherwise I'll use a wood block repair.

Mike
 
Brice Burrell said:
Tony from Pandora said:
If it's just stripped out holes, I'd think a plain ole 1/4" or 3/8" drill bit (or whatever size that is larger than the holes) to size the hole, then glue a length of that size dowel in there... or is it truly multiple holes or 'swiss cheese' like Gregor said.

I see this problem fairly often.  I'll use Tony's method if there are several holes close together that don't allow me to get a good bite into the wood.  If there is only one, and the surrounding wood is fine, I'll just glue and hammer in a 1/8" or 3/16" dowel (the 3/16" dowel may need to be shaved down some with a utility knife to fit).

I'd try the Domino if the problem area is too large for a 1/2" dowel using Tony's method. 

When it's that close to being usable I hammer/glue a bit of bamboo skewer.
 
I use golf tees when faced with that kind of problem.
A bit of glue,and drive them in , cut flush and re-install the screws.
Golf tees are usually made of hard wood.
Charlie

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
yes, good idea but no.

thats just not good practice for a domino type tool. you hit one hard nail and your going to regret that severely. too many other options at lower risk.
 
Update - I ending up using 1/2" dowel, 1/4" dowel, toothpick, wood glue, J-B KwikWood...but not any dominos.

Mike
 
That was a perfect of when your holding a hammer all problems look like nails.  Glad you came to your senses.
 
If it's just a matter of fixing a damaged screw hole, I've had good luck with thishttp://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,180,42240,53317&p=32280 The dowel material that they sell doesn't work if the original hole location is off a little and needs to be moved, but the taper on the reamer matches the one made by a pencil sharpener so I just buy a 36" length of dowel, sharpen the end, drive it in the prepped hole with a little glue and then cut the dowel flush with the surface. Sharpen the end of the dowel and move on to the next hole. I had three door jambs to repair when I was remodeling the laundry room (long story) and the tapered plugs worked out really well.
 

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