ETS 150/3 or ETS 150/5?

[hobkirk]

I am getting an ETS 150 but unsure about which stroke to get. I have a 5" Rigid 2600 ROS (FWW test rated its sanding pattern "good", as they did the ETS 125) but I would imagine that I would be using the Festool mostly. The Fine WW test on 6" sanders rated the ETS 150/3 best. They seemed to prefer the short-stroke sanders but maybe that was because they didn't test the ETS 150/5. I do general woodwork.

Any helpful experience or advice would be much appreciated.

 

[nclemmons]

I have the 150/3 and really like it -

For more aggressive work, I also have the Rotex, but frankly find the 150/3 to be my 'go to' sander most of the time.

neil

 

[Warrior]

I second that, NeilC

 

[JayStPeter]

I have a /5.  Haven't used a /3, but I really like the /5.  There's never been a time I've wished I'd gotten the 3 instead.  Even finishing, I just turn the thing down a bit.  But, someone who has used both extensively would be better to answer the question.

Jay

 

[nickao]

I sold my 150/5 and got a 150/3. Having the Rotex I could easily get the finish of a 150/5, but the 150/3 is another step toward perfection.

I use the Rotex and then go to the 150/3. It made no sense for me to go to the 150/5 from the Rotex because I get the same results as the 150/5 with my Rotex.

The 150/3 gives me the best finish possible and i do not see me switching ever, I just do not see how you can improve perfection.

 

[Woodenfish]

Like Jay, I have a /5 too. I originally wanted a Rotex but found it too bulky and seemed to need two hands on at all times. That was the deal killer for me. I tried the /3, but thought the action was too light and not aggressive enough. The /5 is a great compromise, being an ETS it has wonderful balance and although it has the same stroke as the Rotex, it didn't feel nearly as powerful. I'm telling you, it was like a Goldilocks moment.

 

[nickao]

Yes the Rotex needs two hands 90% of the time. It is the same stroke as the ETS/5 but way more powerful and faster. No sander that powerful is a one handed operation.

Now that I have had it  I could not live without the power on the Rotex.

If I did not have the Rotex I would have kept my ETS 150/5, but having the Rotex the 150/3 is a better fit for me.

 

[JayStPeter]

If you have a Rotex, the /3 seems to be the obvious choice.  I actually bought my /5 used from someone selling it to get a /5 after getting a Rotex.  I don't have a Rotex and knew it would be a while, so I went with the /5.  A serious handplane affliction has reduced my desire for a Rotex.  Even if I get a Rotex, I don't really see selling the /5 and getting a /3.  I haven't found a situation yet where the /5 didn't provide exactly the surface I need.  Buying a sander that will take more time doesn't appeal to me.  The only potential advantage I can see is trying to keep heat down to avoid gumming paper when sanding finishes between coats.  My solution is to turn down the sander and move quickly, works for the finishes I use ... so far anyway.

 

[Jim Becker]

The 150/3 is my go-to sander 90+% of the time. (I do have a Rotex 150 should I need more aggressive sanding)

 

[kdi]

I have the ets 150/3.  It works very well.  The 3 mm orbit is more to my liking.

It is probably just me but I don't get the more aggressive part of the 5 mm for woodworking.  Grinding paint off wood or metal is one thing, but if you are using wood that has been run thru a planer w/ a spiral head, a DW 735, or drum sander you are starting w/ stock that is ready to be sanded thru the grits.  No need for aggressive.  I want a smooth and as swirl free surface as possible.  I actually hand sand at the very end to remove the 3 mm swirls.

If your finishing process includes using a thin (low solids) pigmented stain such as minwax, swirls are a big concern as they will catch and hold the pigment.

As I see it, what you make and how you make it will drive your choice.

btw, the dust collection and smoothness of the 150/3 is just awesome.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

If your finishing process includes using a thin (low solids) pigmented stain such as minwax, swirls are a big concern as they will catch and hold the pigment.

I wholly concur.  I ran into that problem a couple of times when making my Entertainment Center (using General Finishes oil-based wiping stain).  I thought I had been careful to work my way up through 220 grit with my ETS 125, and checked my work with a low angle light, but was shocked to see those swirl marks catching the pigment just as you stated.  The "cure" required a lot of quick wet sanding in the direction of the grain.  This gummed up a lot of sandpaper.  After this experience, I always did a final sanding with the grain using my LS 130 or by hand.

Dave R.