mino
Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2016
- Messages
- 1,984
What you describe can probably be called a "jumping", not wobble. Wobble would imply there is something loose inside the sander. *)
Jumping can be indeed caused by a wobbly sander internals, but so by technique. The interface pads do not help either - they limit the effect of the balancing weights inside the sander.
I have the WTS 150/7 and its 7mm stroke just is felt. No way around it, the power applied by the sander just needs to be transferred somewhere ...
I would advise you try using it for some time without any interface pads and get some feel for it. You say you want to "save" the pad. But that pad is a consumable, plus it will last you a long time when used with traditional paper.
*) Yes a sander can have real wobble ... One of my WTS 105/7 is jumping around because the angle gearing in it is worn out and this introduces inconsistency in the forces balancing it.
I found out this was by the cause for it jumping around when sanding wood only by having two of them - the one with non-worn gearing is absolutely smooth - as much as a 7mm stroke one can be - while the one with worn gears is useful only for drywall sanding by now. Unfortunately the new gearing cannot be got anymore, these sanders are 15 years out of production.
Jumping can be indeed caused by a wobbly sander internals, but so by technique. The interface pads do not help either - they limit the effect of the balancing weights inside the sander.
This.leakyroof said:It would be interesting to see all of this in person. And to compare your sander to a EC 125/3, with its smaller orbit, to see how you felt about that sander. Can't say either of my EC sanders have ever disappointed me, but if you're not happy with the tool, you can certainly sell it off. I would also say that with higher grits, I tend to lower the CT extraction level to below 50% as needed. The smaller the sander, the lower I'll set it..
Let us know how your meet up with the other person works out,
I have the WTS 150/7 and its 7mm stroke just is felt. No way around it, the power applied by the sander just needs to be transferred somewhere ...
I would advise you try using it for some time without any interface pads and get some feel for it. You say you want to "save" the pad. But that pad is a consumable, plus it will last you a long time when used with traditional paper.
*) Yes a sander can have real wobble ... One of my WTS 105/7 is jumping around because the angle gearing in it is worn out and this introduces inconsistency in the forces balancing it.
I found out this was by the cause for it jumping around when sanding wood only by having two of them - the one with non-worn gearing is absolutely smooth - as much as a 7mm stroke one can be - while the one with worn gears is useful only for drywall sanding by now. Unfortunately the new gearing cannot be got anymore, these sanders are 15 years out of production.