Extended LR32 edge stops

[droche]

Hi Everyone -
I've been lurking here for the past few months after finally locating a garage in which to start building out myself a small wood shop.  Lots of great advice here, I thought I'd use my introductory post to contribute an idea I had...

In using the LR32 system and an OF1400 router drilling shelf pin holes for shop cabinets, I found myself wishing that I could reference the front edge of the cabinets for drilling the back row of holes, instead of just the first row offset 37mm. So, I made a set of edge stops that would allow for offsets of up to 773 mm (just so happened to be the offset corresponding to using 3' bar stock.

So far, they seem to work great.  I searched a bit, wondering if anyone had done anything similar, but nothing came up.  I wonder if this is an idea that might be useful to others, or if there is a better way to do what I am trying to accomplish.

 

[Bohdan]

If they were fitted to the rail on the other side they would make a cheap set of parallel guides. You would have to clamp the rail and then remove them to cut.

This is what Festool should have done originally - good thinking.

 

[FastEasySmartTOOL]

This is brilliant!  Where did you find the hexagonal aluminum extrusions?

 

[Gwerner]

Nicely done! Looks like the yellow scale would be much easier to read too than the stock stops.

 

[GarryMartin]

Some information on the size of the bars etc. in a post of mine from some time ago. I never did make the long extensions as I worried about being able to keep them parallel to the rail given the rather flimsy attachment mechanisms. Of course, that was theoretical, so if they're working out for you in practice, that's great news and I'm sure will inspire others.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/lr-32-extensions/

 

[droche]

Interesting suggestion to use them as parallel guides - I have a set of parallel guides, but these might be nice for doing quick cuts here and there, and might be nice for quick narrow cuts.  I bet I could put another scale on a different face of the bar with zero referenced to the edge of the track.

I also used 14mm bar, McMaster Carr P/N 8252T71.  Garry, that's good feedback on using the 9/16" bar - glad to know that works, as metric bar can be hard to find.

The scales themselves are much easier to read than the stock scale - they're 1/4" wide, adhesive backed steel, made by Oregon Rule Co., and purchased on Amazon.

I don't have a lot of time on these yet, and one of my concerns is also how repeatable and accurate they are given the length. 

 

[waho6o9]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum-hex-stock/=z0vpn0

hth

 

[NL-mikkla]

Great idea!!

Actually been strungling with the same problem last week, bars where to short for the back row of holes for larger drawer slides.
For some reason referencing of the back edge instead of the front edge felt wrong.
Even though my panels are dead on square I thought it was wrong.

I came up with some sort of a solution by setting the stops manually on the part without scale.
This was a time consuming set up, big chance for of setting the entire row etc etc.
Once i got them both identical and test run it, I did al the panels with the back rows in one evening knowing I could never set it up again in the same way...

This seems the solution I was looking for.
While reading this I wonder if you can reference of the first row of drilled holes (37mm).
Thinking that the end stops little pin might be 5mm, or is this the way it is suppost to be done ?? LoL

 

[Bohdan]

Thinking that the end stops little pin might be 5mm, or is this the way it is suppost to be done ?? LoL

Good thought but unfortunately the pin is 6mm.