Festool CSC SYS 50 Tablesaw

[jeh]

I suppose I should go check mine.
But it might be best to send it in on warranty.

I do not know how you purchased yours, but I picked mine up locally versus buying it from my regular vendor due to the complexity and probably sensitivity of the motor that adjusts the blade. My reasoning was a history of seeing boxes arrive in rough condition with internally broken styrofoam and kicked in areas in the box. I've never had anything get damage, but decided to avoid the chance. It gives me pause to mail it to Festool knowing it has to survive FedEx or UPS twice. I have not checked mine yet...hopefully Festool will help you on the phone to get it dialed in so you can tell us how to do it. [smile]

 

[pixelated]

I do not know how you purchased yours, but I picked mine up locally versus buying it from my regular vendor due to the complexity and probably sensitivity of the motor that adjusts the blade. My reasoning was a history of seeing boxes arrive in rough condition with internally broken styrofoam and kicked in areas in the box. I've never had anything get damage, but decided to avoid the chance. It gives me pause to mail it to Festool knowing it has to survive FedEx or UPS twice. I have not checked mine yet...hopefully Festool will help you on the phone to get it dialed in so you can tell us how to do it. [smile]

I bought my saw from a local dealer, so it got minimal handling between Festool and me.
I've still not checked mine to specifically look for any sliding table alignment issues like [member=80651]Xere[/member] is experiencing. But I did do some test cuts with the blade angled at 45° and those pieces form a perfect 90, so I'm guessing all is well on mine.

 

[jeh]

Thanks for confirming the mini Bow feather works on there.

I have the mini Bow Feather and one of the track adapters is way too small and the other will slide in with some pressure, but more than I'd like. If I assemble it then it will not fit in the track. Did anyone modify there's? I was thinking I code do some sanding on it to make it less tight.

Here is what I bought on Amazon.

 

[ElectricFeet]

I have the mini Bow Feather and one of the track adapters is way too small and the other will slide in with some pressure, but more than I'd like. If I assemble it then it will not fit in the track. Did anyone modify there's? I was thinking I code do some sanding on it to make it less tight.

You don’t need the track adapters — they are for mitre slots, not t-tracks.

Just clamp it directly in the smaller clamping track with the t-bolt. Works fine [thumbs up]

 

[jeh]

That did the trick. Thx.

 

[pixelated]

I took a look at my saw tonight with a precision straight edge. The out feed end of the sliding table tilts down by about 1mm at its outer edge. The infeed end is dead flat with the table and doesn’t change through the whole travel.
Given that the infeed side is flat, i’m not sure the tilt would affect the cut, but it is concerning.

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member], it might be nice if someone from Festool could comment as to whether this is a defect, or some aspect of the design. Or if there are adjustments that can be made.

 

[semenza]

I took a look at my saw tonight with a precision straight edge. The out feed end of the sliding table tilts down by about 1mm at its outer edge. The infeed end is dead flat with the table and doesn’t change through the whole travel.
Given that the infeed side is flat, i’m not sure the tilt would affect the cut, but it is concerning.

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member], it might be nice if someone from Festool could comment as to whether this is a defect, or some aspect of the design. Or if there are adjustments that can be made.

[member=76259]MattFestool[/member]  Maybe you can find out about this?

  Thanks,
  Seth

 

[ElectricFeet]

* Don't have the CSC yet

but it's probably the 25-5 screw they adamantly tell you not to touch   It's kinda in the right place next to the eccentric.

There are also two screws that attach the two rails to the guide base... but my bet is 25-5.

I think you are right.

The manual says “NOTICE : Do NOT adjust the screw [25-5]. Otherwise, the sliding table will not move easily.” I suspect that this is because there are actually three “25-5”s and if you don’t change them in concert, they will skew the rail.

Per ekat:
[attachimg=1]

Edit to add: there’s no way I’m going to experiment with mine though. That’d be a pretty big warranty-voiding act [eek]

 

[Xere]

I suspect as well, I have tried all the others and none of them is changing the "tilt" of the table.

Contacted Festool France and awaiting feedback from them.

[blink]

* Don't have the CSC yet

but it's probably the 25-5 screw they adamantly tell you not to touch   It's kinda in the right place next to the eccentric.

There are also two screws that attach the two rails to the guide base... but my bet is 25-5.

I think you are right.

The manual says “NOTICE : Do NOT adjust the screw [25-5]. Otherwise, the sliding table will not move easily.” I suspect that this is because there are actually three “25-5”s and if you don’t change them in concert, they will skew the rail.

Per ekat:
[attachimg=1]

Edit to add: there’s no way I’m going to experiment with mine though. That’d be a pretty big warranty-voiding act [eek]

 

[woodferret]

Contacted Festool France and awaiting feedback from them.

Let us know what they say.  I just received mine and I can see how they've been calibrating it.  A straight edge across the slider with a digital level gauge matches the same across the bed.  However, I noticed the sliding table is cupped ever so slightly for me.  :/

 

[woodferret]

Edit to add: there’s no way I’m going to experiment with mine though. That’d be a pretty big warranty-voiding act [eek]

I got antsy and disassembled mine.  The 25-5 screws are only there to bind the two part rail together to account for mfg tolerances.  My initial assumption of it being a set screw is wrong.  It protrudes downward but the recess on the underbody is deeper than the screw.  There is no tilt adjustment at all for the table I can find on the assembly.

[attachimg=1]

I've gone and threw in a paper shim over one of the metal ramp underneath the plastic riser.  The plastic is the the bearing surface.  Two pieces of copier paper tilts it too much for my table.  So probably one is enough for most of us.

[attachimg=2]

 

[woodferret]

I also noticed while calibrating, how much distance they had over the fixed table for the slider.  It's normal to be higher, but they almost had 0.5mm height diff.  Then I found out that the blade opening is slightly deformed upwards.  I know this is a jobsite saw and isn't milled or cast, but ugh (frustrated).

 

[Xere]

Wahoo, I am impressed.

I have 2 questions
1) Removing the sliding table you do not have to touch the 25-5 screw ? Would be great to have more detail on how to disassemble it.
2) Why paper shim over one of the metal ramp underneath the plastic riser, and not over teh two assuming this is similar front and rear?

Edit to add: there’s no way I’m going to experiment with mine though. That’d be a pretty big warranty-voiding act [eek]

I got antsy and disassembled mine.  The 25-5 screws are only there to bind the two part rail together to account for mfg tolerances.  My initial assumption of it being a set screw is wrong.  It protrudes downward but the recess on the underbody is deeper than the screw.  There is no tilt adjustment at all for the table I can find on the assembly.

[attachimg=1]

I've gone and threw in a paper shim over one of the metal ramp underneath the plastic riser.  The plastic is the the bearing surface.  Two pieces of copier paper tilts it too much for my table.  So probably one is enough for most of us.

[attachimg=2]

 

[Xere]

They mentioned on the phone that this can be adjusted with the eccentric screw.. I am not 100% convinced but will try tomorrow again.

Contacted Festool France and awaiting feedback from them.

Let us know what they say.  I just received mine and I can see how they've been calibrating it.  A straight edge across the slider with a digital level gauge matches the same across the bed.  However, I noticed the sliding table is cupped ever so slightly for me.  :/

 

[woodferret]

Wahoo, I am impressed.

I have 2 questions
1) Removing the sliding table you do not have to touch the 25-5 screw ? Would be great to have more detail on how to disassemble it.
2) Why paper shim over one of the metal ramp underneath the plastic riser, and not over teh two assuming this is similar front and rear?

1) Don't remove 25-5, nor even bother removing the front/back caps.  Only the center two caps (part of the height adjustment) need to be removed and those two screws backed out.  One is a 4mm allen (steel), the other is a weird 3mm (black).  When disengaged, the entire sliding table along with the rails should be able to pop off.

2) I put the shims under the plastic just so it doesn't slide around as I faff the rail assembly back on top.  I'm not even sure if it was metal - might just have been some tape-on to lessen the binding friction.  Paper here is fine and will slide with the black plastic sled.

I ended up with two pieces at the back vs the one at the front since mine also tilted slightly more at the back.

If you try the eccentric screw, it'll be interesting to hear back.  Looking at the mechanism, that's just side-side and the rail assembly has a capture hole there.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I really like that in the email today announcing the unveiling of this new saw to the OZ market, one of the features is that it's more precise than a yard stick!

 

[pixelated]

That does seem an odd comparison. Though much depends on the particular yard stick.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I didn't know our Aussie yardsticks were held in such high regard for precision to deserve such a comparison.

 

[squall_line]

I didn't know our Aussie yardsticks were held in such high regard for precision to deserve such a comparison.

To be fair, it does say "Any" yardstick.

I find the "speaks your language" to be particularly comical, honestly.

 

[Xere]

I followed your advise and seems that it worked. I put small shim on the front and rear metal ramp and now seems perfect. I will try more later today.

Also as a side note your are 100% correct no need to remove the plastic caps which break really easily. Only 2 screw needs to be removed. No option to adjust anything using the 25-5 so do not touch them.

After adjusting the table I adjust height of table to be perfect  ;D

One more information Yes the eccentric is only adjusting the space between table and sliding table.

Thanks again for your support which seems to solve the issue.

Edit to add: there’s no way I’m going to experiment with mine though. That’d be a pretty big warranty-voiding act [eek]

I got antsy and disassembled mine.  The 25-5 screws are only there to bind the two part rail together to account for mfg tolerances.  My initial assumption of it being a set screw is wrong.  It protrudes downward but the recess on the underbody is deeper than the screw.  There is no tilt adjustment at all for the table I can find on the assembly.

[attachimg=1]

I've gone and threw in a paper shim over one of the metal ramp underneath the plastic riser.  The plastic is the the bearing surface.  Two pieces of copier paper tilts it too much for my table.  So probably one is enough for most of us.

[attachimg=2]