festool parallel guides or qwas square?

[gruz]

I've been checking out the parallel guides, and came upon the qwas square-  are they intended for the same applications?  I'm planning on using this for generally square cuts for cabinet making in the shop, and both would seem to function similarly in this application.  Any clarifications?  thanks-
sorry if this is the wrong section for this poslt.

 

[Sparktrician]

I've been checking out the parallel guides, and came upon the qwas square-  are they intended for the same applications?  I'm planning on using this for generally square cuts for cabinet making in the shop, and both would seem to function similarly in this application.  Any clarifications?  thanks-
sorry if this is the wrong section for this poslt.

I have the parallel guides only, not both, and haven't used the Qwas square, but it appears that they both are intended to have similar results.  The parallel guides are intended for repeat cuts of the same dimension, such as drawer box parts, or toekicks, or face frame components, and as a result of the way they're made, accuracy will be very good.  I believe the Qwas square is intended for square cuts, but doesn't have the capability of repeat cuts of the same exact dimension. If you're doing a bunch of shelves, or face frames, or toekicks, I'd select the parallel guides first. 

[smile]

 

[Qwas]

The parallel guides are for making parallel cuts and the Qwas Square is for making 90 degree square cuts.

In other words, if you were cutting plywood the parallel guide references from the back edge and the Qwas Square references from the side. The parallel guide does nothing to make sure the sides are square to the front or the back.

The Qwas Square has holes for adding an auxiliary fence. This fence could be as simple as a 3/4" square board with a screw in it acting as a stop for repeat cuts. The holes were designed to match up with Incra's gold T-track and accessories (stops). This allows you to extend the length of the Square, have a built in ruler, and to use an adjustable stop. You could also use another manufacturers t-track but the holes may not line up and may have to drill new holes into the Square or the t-tarck.

 

[Les]

Steve,

Do you have a pic's of how to use the incra track with your square? Square works great 8) for 90° but adding the incra track with stops would be even better.

 

[fshanno]

Steve,

Do you have a pic's of how to use the incra track with your square? Square works great 8) for 90° but adding the incra track with stops would be even better.

How do you overcome the friction of the guide during placement at your mark?

 

[Qwas]

Steve,

Do you have a pic's of how to use the incra track with your square? Square works great 8) for 90° but adding the incra track with stops would be even better.

Sure Les, anything for you.  [smile]

First picture is with the Incra T-track and Flip Stop. Notice at the end of the Qwas Square I added a fender washer when bolting this on. The fender washer supports the Square and T-track on the board. The fender washer is a good idea to use even if you're not using the T-track.

[attachthumb=1]

This picture shows the bottom of the assembly. The factory holes align for up to 5 screws. I used 3 screws easily seen in the picture above and below.

[attachthumb=2]

This one is a close up of the Flip Stop, Ruler, and T-track. I put a second Flip Stop on it real close so you can see how in the open position you align the Flip Stop with the ruler.

[attachthumb=3]

Here is a picture with the Rockler T-track. Only 2 factory holes align with the Qwas Square but that is enough. Sorry, I don't have any Rockler stops or accessories to throw on it. I guess I could have used a clamp as a stop.  [smile]

[attachthumb=4]

How do you overcome the friction of the guide during placement at your mark?

Good question and it is real easy. You can try it without a Qwas Square attached. Think of your guide rail as being a teeter-totter with the pivot point at the edge of your work piece. Push the guide rail downward where the Qwas Square is attached and allow the far end to raise. The far end only needs to raise a couple of inches and then the guide rail will easily slide. As long as your cut mark is on the end of the board (versus being in a few inches) it is easy to align.

 

[Les]

Thanks Steve. Did you set the track flush with square? I'm going to use #10 screws, did you? Glad I asked the question. I was going to put the track on top of the square. :

 

[yankee]

why not just cut a square piece of ply or mdf and place against the fence and track to square it up? instead of plunking down all theism obey on fancy squares

 

[Les]

You could but it is very easy to knock out of square. Many have tried this before you but not sure how happy they were with results but I know I wasn't. Steve has seen a need for his square is why he developed it and why I use it. [big grin]

 

[Qwas]

Thanks Steve. Did you set the track flush with square? I'm going to use #10 screws, did you? Glad I asked the question. I was going to put the track on top of the square. :

I used #8 screws, the holes in the Qwas Square might be a hair too small for #10. All the T-tracks seemed to be drilled for #8 also. Yes, I assembled it with the track flush, very easy to do.

With the track above the Square, the track is too far from the workpiece to be useful. Besides, having the T-track on the bottom gives a bigger surface when contacting the edge of the workpiece.

When I cut stacked sheets of plywood I like to replace the T-track with an aluminum angle bracket.

[attachthumb=1

[attachthumb=2]

 

[Qwas]

why not just cut a square piece of ply or mdf and place against the fence and track to square it up? instead of plunking down all theism obey on fancy squares

Sir, I have always felt the same way as you.  [smile] Once you are set up for making square cuts, it cost very little to make your own squares, speed squares, and giant squares. I've even posted how to do it on another forum. I started out by using a old kitchen cabinet door as my first square. So many things are made to be square why spend good money on a square.

If you have the MFT, we know the holes can be used for checking squares and to make squares but I bet most still don't realize the corners on the MDF top are also perfectly square. If you make your own top with holes, then it easy to have perfect corners on it too.

The only reason I made the Qwas Square was because there seemed to be some demand for it. I was hoping it could be sold cheaper but the costs of good aluminum sheet material and machining keeps that from happening.  

 

[yankee]

You could but it is very easy to knock out of square. Many have tried this before you but not sure how happy they were with results but I know I wasn't. Steve has seen a need for his square is why he developed it and why I use it. [big grin]

how do you knock a square piece of mdf out of square?

 

[Qwas]

Not to put in Les'es mouth but I think he meant "bump" it out of place. Of course this is easily solved by making the MDF a speed square by adding a small lip to the bottom of it.

 

[Toy Sun]

Hi Steve,
Just ordered a Qwas Square from Bob Mariano (he said he is getting the new shipment any day now  )
To my mind, the Incra Gold track and flip stop solution with the Qwas Square is perfect for my needs - I don't have an MFT and generally work with a portable set up - I cut in the garage on sawhorses, then assemble in my very small shop.
Any input on a good length of track, compromise between easy handling and getting the job done? I anticipate leaving the Square attached to my guide rail and realize that guide rail + square + track is going to be unwieldy beast. It's going to be a challenge to find the wall space in my shop to hang this thing from!

Thanks,
John

 

[Qwas]

Thanks for the interest. If you have any questions after receiving the square, feel free to PM or e-mail me.

Are you thinking of installing the T-track like this?

[attachimg=#]

The length will mainly depend on use but mine is 3 feet and it's not too bad to handle. You will notice I've added a 1/4" fender washer (wider than normal washer) at the end of the Qwas Square. This allows the weight of the square/T-track assembly to rest on the work piece instead of pulling on the Festool guide rail.

If you need more than 3 feet, you might want to try something different. Use a 3 foot T-Track and get a piece of 7/16" threaded rod, nuts and wide washers. The threaded rod should fit nicely in the T-track and it might thread in nicely with no need for other hardware on this end (if not, perhaps drill and tap a small hole in the side of the T-track for 1/4-20 bolt to lock the threaded rod in place). The nuts and washer can be used as an adjustable stop at the other end (I haven't tried this last part with the nuts and washer but it should work). The threaded rod is easily removed when working on smaller pieces.

 

[Toy Sun]

Yes, that's exactly my plan. With the rule and the stops, this looks like it meets my functional spec, which is repeatable square cuts that I can set on a scale - no tape measure and drawing lines needed.

I wonder if there is some hardware that would allow Incra track to be connected together as you describe - similar to the way the festool track extension pieces work for the guide rail?

Thanks,
John

 

[Qwas]

Good idea, I just tried the Festool joining bars in the Incra T-track and it is about .010" too wide and maybe .002" too tall. They could be sanded to fit but then they wouldn't work good on the guide rails afterwards.

I've never heard of any hardware for joining 2 sections like that. You could try a short piece of the 7/16" threaded rod but best bet would be to talk with the guys at Incra and see if they have anything or can make you something. If not, I can try to make something for you.

 

[dicktill]

I wonder if there is some hardware that would allow Incra track to be connected together as you describe - similar to the way the festool track extension pieces work for the guide rail?

I modified a couple of the Festool guide rail connectors to allow them to connect pairs of Incra tracks together. Had to machine about 0.015-0.020" off an edge to reduce the width (the thickness is okay). I did this so that I could have a pair of real long tracks to use with "Rip Guides", but would also work well with the Quas Square.

 

[Guilliaume woodworks]

I've had qwas square for sometime now and love it. I wondered  what the holes were for,I knew they had some purpose...so I guess tomorrow I'm off to get incra t track. Great idea of fender washer too.