Festool tools to purchase in order of priority

[Boski]

I am considering buy a Festool drill (CXS18) and close to pulling the trigger. I can't honestly say I have a need for it, as have Dewalt drills already.

However, I keep reading that drill should be low down in the priority list of Festool tools, so was wondering what everyone see's as the priority order of tools.

So far I have:

- TS60
- 2 x 1400 rails
- 1 x 800mm rail
- 1 x FSK 420mm

- Class M Midi
- Cyclone
- Bluetooth attachment

- 1400 Router

- DF500 Domino
- Domino Assortment box 

- ETS EC 150/5 Sander

Is there anything else I should prioritise over drills?

I am a hobbyist and make a range of things, but nothing specific.
 

 

[Coen]

What is the goal? Collecting them all? 

 

[peacefulandpatriotically]

do you feel you are "lacking" anything with your current setup?  To me, you have quite a nice assortment and unless you are trying to fill your shop with festool simply because it is festool (said another way, collecting), why not wait and build things and when the need arises for a particular project, then buy the tool? 

 

[mino]

1) make your rails useful
Festool FS-WA
TSO MTR-X (for squaring/calibrating the TS-WA) plus other uses)
TSO PGS
TSO GRS 16 PE v2
A set of the Makita rail connectors (do not dent rails and hold stronger)

2) edge guide thing
ETS 125 with the edge guide as a finish sander.

3) your ultimate install/go-to driver
CXS 2.6 (set)

4) Battery platform:
get two SCA 8 chargers
get some 3.1 Bluetooth batteries (while still available) to go along the OSC 18
get one or two 8Ah batteries for the heavy work

5) 3600 rpm 4-speed drill
TPC 18/4 basic + AN-UNI + EX-UNI + DC UNI FF

6) Multitool
OSC 18 basic (set)

X) consider KSC 60, seriously look into OF 1010 R for the precise work

OK, that should do it for now  [smile] .

 

[Boski]

What is the goal? Collecting them all? 

Kind of, but more of an addiction.

 

[Boski]

do you feel you are "lacking" anything with your current setup?  To me, you have quite a nice assortment and unless you are trying to fill your shop with festool simply because it is festool (said another way, collecting), why not wait and build things and when the need arises for a particular project, then buy the tool?

Good advice and very sensible, unfortunately I am not that patient lol

 

[Boski]

1) make your rails useful
Festool FS-WA
TSO MTR-X (for squaring/calibrating the TS-WA) plus other uses)
TSO PGS
TSO GRS 16 PE v2
A set of the Makita rail connectors (do not dent rails and hold stronger)

2) edge guide thing
ETS 125 with the edge guide as a finish sander.

3) your ultimate install/go-to driver
CXS 2.6 (set)

4) Battery platform:
get two SCA 8 chargers
get some 3.1 Bluetooth batteries (while still available) to go along the OSC 18
get one or two 8Ah batteries for the heavy work

5) 3600 rpm 4-speed drill
TPC 18/4 basic + AN-UNI + EX-UNI + DC UNI FF

6) Multitool
OSC 18 basic (set)

X) consider KSC 60, seriously look into OF 1010 R for the precise work

OK, that should do it for now  [smile] .

Great list

I have the full TSO parallel edge guide and 2 x of their squares,  can't say I am too happy with the system.

I have been super tempted with the KS60, however I do have a Dewalt 365 mitre saw I bought not too long ago, so hard one to justify.

The CXS / CXS18 do look like they will serve a purpose for me, as I am making 2 x fitted wardrobes soon.

I do love my ETS EC 150/5 though and would love a ROTEX one day just for material removal and to see it in action. But again, can't justify another sander lol.

 

[woodferret]

I see no mention of a MFT or other similar DIY clamping surface.  Probably prioritize that as you're gonna find it helps using all the tools more effectively.  What type you choose depends on your personal viewpoint on cutting into a work top and the size of work you do.

The official MFT is a nice all rounder.  Edge profile clamping I find quite useful for iron-on edge banding and side work.  But if you want to roll it yourself, that works too.

 

[Boski]

I see no mention of a MFT or other similar DIY clamping surface.  Probably prioritize that as you're gonna find it helps using all the tools more effectively.  What type you choose depends on your personal viewpoint on cutting into a work top and the size of work you do.

The official MFT is a nice all rounder.  Edge profile clamping I find quite useful for iron-on edge banding and side work.  But if you want to roll it yourself, that works too.

Good point, I missed that off my list, I have the Axminster version. 

 

[peacefulandpatriotically]

I have the full TSO parallel edge guide and 2 x of their squares,  can't say I am too happy with the system.

what aren't you happy about with the TSO system?  I've heard of a few examples on this forum where less than desirable results were produced but for the most part it is a highly rated system.  Asking also since I've been interested in buying into the system myself.

 

[Boski]

My cuts are always 2/3mm out, and it's always on one end, have tried with a brand new rail and the same.

Spoke with their customer services who were helpful but couldn't get to the bottom of it.

Was talking with Hans on here via thread I made, but we never managed to speak and it's just kind of fell through the cracks.

I kind of just try and work around the 2/3mm now which is a bit frustrating.

But equally, I am probably a rare case, if it wasn't 2/3mm out it would be an excellent system to use and very easy.

 

[RussellS]

A Festool drill?  Why?  Do your current cordless drills not turn the drill bit or drive screws?  Never understood the nonsense for specific cordless drills.  They are pretty much generic.  One does exactly what the other does.  No real differences.  There are a few specialty drills that do make sense.  Such as the Milwaukee M12 drill that is very small and has several attachments that allow you to work inside drawers and other very tight spots.  Its designed for close quarters and cannot be replicated by other drills.  Getting that specialty tool makes sense.  But for 99.9% of all drilling or screwing needs, any cordless drill works as good as any other.

As for your Festool ranking.  Here is my list of tools to get if starting out.
1.  Track saw.  I have an ancient electric model.  So maybe the new cordless are superior.  Or the newest electric models are far superior to mine.  Don't know.  But I suspect any track saw will work just fine.  I do not even think it needs to be Festool brand.  Makita or one of the others may be more than good enough for a track saw.
2.  Rails.  I use the 1400 the most.  But a 1700 would be a great substitute.  Rarely use the 800.  The hole version would be invaluable if I needed to drill/router all those holes.  I have a 3000 rail so no need to F around with joining rails with connectors.  But if that is too expensive, then go ahead and F around with the rail joiners.
3.  Vacuum.  I have a Festool track saw, so I have a Festool vacuum.  Buy whatever vacuum seems the right size.  Go as wild as you want with the Bluetooth and other nonsense.  My vacuum comes on when I turn on the saw so that seems pretty good to me.
4.  150mm random orbit sander.  I prefer the 3mm stroke because it sands finer than the 5mm.  If you are using a random orbit sander, you are trying to put a finish surface on the wood.  Why not go for a fine finish?
5.  Domino.  This tool is not available from anyone else.  It does something no other tool can do.  It adds a new, useful way to join wood and make joints.  All woodworking requires joints, so the Domino is very useful.

Router?  All routers do the same thing as all other routers about as equally well.  Just like with drills.  Get whatever you want.  There are many other Festool tools that fill specialized niches.  If you need that specialty, then get that tool.  Take the Rotex for example.  Supposedly it can rip up wood like a chain saw and also make wood smoother than a baby's bottom.  I have a Festool ROS so I have the baby bottom covered.  And I have a big heavy belt sander with 36 grit belts so I can rip wood up too.  Or a scrub plane and a 5C plane to hog off wood if needed.  So why would I need a Rotex?  Festool has the Conturo edgebander.  If I did edgebanding of expensive kitchen cabinets all day, that tool might interest me a lot.  Or I could make do with the iron on banding for one cabinet.  Or the MFT table and clamps and guides.  I have a real workbench to hold all my work in vises or against dogs or stopblocks.  And a separate homemade cutting table for by track saw.  With holes drilled in the top.  So an MFT would not give me anything new I don't have already.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Router?  All routers do the same thing as all other routers about as equally well.  Just like with drills.  Get whatever you want.

I agree more or less with most of the comments, but I really have to disagree strongly with this one. All routers route but not all routers are equal. I've had pretty much every brand over the 40+ years, and I can tell you the OF2200 (with the OF1400 a close second) is hands down by far the best router out of all of them. The sheer power while still being smooth and superbly balanced in operation is a marvel from a tool with this size and grunt.

Also, the adjustability takes the usefulness to a whole new level and the ergonomics make it a dream to use, not to mention the vastly superior dust extraction. Give me an OF1400 or an OF2200 over a Hitachi, Makita or Triton anyday!

 

[mino]

A Festool drill?  Why?  Do your current cordless drills not turn the drill bit or drive screws?  Never understood the nonsense for specific cordless drills.  They are pretty much generic.  One does exactly what the other does.  No real differences.
...

Sorry. No, not sorry.

CSX (original) has no analogues on the market for how it does what it does. Nada.
TPC was very much criticised even here for channelling all that power back into controlability instead of raw power and being "weird" one on the market in this. Some buy it precisely for that behavior all the "normal" drills do not present. Yes, there is the Fein sister drill ...
Same goes for the AGC 18. The smoothest ginder I have ever used. My wrists thank me for that every other day.

If *You* do not see a point in ergonomic tools. Fine.
Do not buy them and get the cheaper raw power/carpentry focused tools. They are all around.

But do not force your view onto others by being dismissive with such a tone. Not cool. No matter how valid your view may be for the average*) person.

*) Eh. "Average" people do not frequent sites like FOG.

 

[mino]

My cuts are always 2/3mm out, and it's always on one end, have tried with a brand new rail and the same.
...

This points clearly to a systemic error.

Simplest solution (until you find a better one) is to set the stop on the "wrong" end "off" by 2/3 mm. Do a a couple test cuts to settle the workflow and off you go.

 

[ChuckM]

Festool cordless drills, which I've used, are one of the only Fedtool tools that I have no plans to acquire.

 

[waho6o9]

Get a Rotex

 

[Boski]

All fair comments and probably a good bit of common sense in there

 

[Boski]

My cuts are always 2/3mm out, and it's always on one end, have tried with a brand new rail and the same.
...

This points clearly to a systemic error.

Simplest solution (until you find a better one) is to set the stop on the "wrong" end "off" by 2/3 mm. Do a a couple test cuts to settle the workflow and off you go.

This happens when using one square and two, but recently i went through a process with trial and error with just one to try and get to the bottom of it.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

That looks like a pretty good array to me. Going much further would seem to actually require something more, which depends entirely on the projects you do.
I'm a huge fan of the MFK700, but it is not for everyone. It's very much like the Conturo, if you need it...fantastic, if not....useless.

I agree 100% with [member=61254]mino[/member] on the CXS. I hope they keep the original, after the new version happens.
They are unique. I do have other drill/drivers (Makita) but I still wouldn't give mine up. It was an early purchase in my Festool journey, right after the DF500, RO90 and MFK700.

Router?  All routers do the same thing as all other routers about as equally well.  Just like with drills.  Get whatever you want.

I agree more or less with most of the comments, but I really have to disagree strongly with this one. All routers route but not all routers are equal. I've had pretty much every brand over the 40+ years, and I can tell you the OF2200 (with the OF1400 a close second) is hands down by far the best router out of all of them. The sheer power while still being smooth and superbly balanced in operation is a marvel from a tool with this size and grunt.

Also, the adjustability takes the usefulness to a whole new level and the ergonomics make it a dream to use, not to mention the vastly superior dust extraction. Give me an OF1400 or an OF2200 over a Hitachi, Makita or Triton anyday!

As a guy who has more routers than anyone should admit to, I can definitely say that they are not all the same. Sure, it's a motor that spins a bit, but there is more to it. Ergonomics and even form-factor play into it as well. Festool is also far superior in dust collection, most ignore that totally.
My main addition would be that I think that Triton is the best in a router table. I have routers dedicated to specific tasks, so different things matter for different situations.