Hi,
Here is another FOG thread on this too, http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=2763.0
Seth
Here is another FOG thread on this too, http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=2763.0
Seth
Festool Vac System
- Thread starter Paul Franklin
- Start date
robtonya said:
Hi,
Yeah, that could be very handy for site work. And repairs what not, holding things that might be damaged by other clamps.
Seth
all you need is a flat piece of board or metal with some 3/8 foam rubber on it. cut some grooves [but not to the edges] pull a vac in the grooves ant there you go less than 400. we use a curve metal rubber set up to hold 4200 pound pipes, using a 200 vau pump.
so after reading about the Vakuusyst post (http://www.barth-maschinenbau.de/Produkte/Vakuusyst/video.php)
from our friend from the Netherlands above I wrote to the company and heard back from the rep in N.Y.
as to the price and availability.......
(save your Euros!)
his reply.....
"My name is Steve Riebling, I represent Barth and there equipment in the US
My office is in NY .
The vak system for basic suppor bar,2 vac cups and pump, with foot pedal sell for $ 3300.00
The vac system cart complete sells for $ 4400.00
Price FOB NY
Please let me know if you are interest, I have none in stock
but we have a container from Barth coming in, in 6 weeks
we could add it to the shipment."
hmmm, so 2 Festool Vac systems to hold a long part would cost how much?????
from our friend from the Netherlands above I wrote to the company and heard back from the rep in N.Y.
as to the price and availability.......
(save your Euros!)
his reply.....
"My name is Steve Riebling, I represent Barth and there equipment in the US
My office is in NY .
The vak system for basic suppor bar,2 vac cups and pump, with foot pedal sell for $ 3300.00
The vac system cart complete sells for $ 4400.00
Price FOB NY
Please let me know if you are interest, I have none in stock
but we have a container from Barth coming in, in 6 weeks
we could add it to the shipment."
hmmm, so 2 Festool Vac systems to hold a long part would cost how much?????
Michael Kellough
Member
monte said:
It is a great tool though, the 21st century patternmaker's vise.
Michael Kellough
Member
monte said:
Anyone know anything about that drill installed hinge pin in the video? After using a jig to drill holes in the edge of the door he is using a drill to set something that looks like a hinge pin just after the middle of the video.
Michael Kellough
Member
johne said:Michael
is this what you mean?
it's a drill in hinge. In dutch it is called "inboor paumelle"
Exactly.
Now I want to know how the other half is installed.
Apparently you have to run a nut from the other side of the jamb?
So, if you need to change the hinge the jamb has to come out?
Michael Kellough
Member
johne said:
This is for doors that overlap the door frame. I hope the drawing makes that clear. You can see the shape of the door in the vid
Thanks for the illustration johne. It is neat design, holds the door open and makes the passageway a little larger than when conventional hinges are used. Is this only for interior doors?
However, my question concerns the apparent need to put a nut on the threaded part of the pin portion of the hinge. You would need use a wrench in the position occupied by the "door frame" text in the illustration. What if you need to get access to that nut after the door casing in applied? You just have to take the casing off?
Michael,
This is the idea
One hole in the door to hold top part of hinge
2 holes in the doorframe, for the lower part of the hinge,one for the smooth stabilizing pin and one for the threaded pin
The threaded pin has a screw accesible from the front (see pic)
This is the idea
One hole in the door to hold top part of hinge
2 holes in the doorframe, for the lower part of the hinge,one for the smooth stabilizing pin and one for the threaded pin
The threaded pin has a screw accesible from the front (see pic)
I don t really like the look of these doors. I think it is manily done to save a few bucks. Holes in the doors can be predrilled at the factory (as in vid)
and the doorframes mostly come predrilled too. So when installing all you have to do is screw in the two parts hang the door in and you re done.
and the doorframes mostly come predrilled too. So when installing all you have to do is screw in the two parts hang the door in and you re done.
Michael Kellough
Member
johne said:Michael,
This is the idea
One hole in the door to hold top part of hinge
2 holes in the doorframe, for the lower part of the hinge,one for the smooth stabilizing pin and one for the threaded pin
The threaded pin has a screw accesible from the front (see pic)
Thanks for the picture, it's even clearer now. I somehow failed to notice your indication that the door jamb screw was installed through the barrel of the hinge. It's really clever, but I'm starting to see some of the drawbacks you might not like. There is a large gap (the thickness of the hinge) the full length of the door when it's closed?.
Dave,
About the edgebanding there is lots of info here (in English) also about that 3mm stuffhttp://www.kante24.de/output/controller.aspx?spr_id=2
About the edgebanding there is lots of info here (in English) also about that 3mm stuffhttp://www.kante24.de/output/controller.aspx?spr_id=2
Michael Kellough
Member
johne said:
I think I get it now. The door in your illustration is in the closed position? So, not only is there no gap there is a rabbeted overlap. This leaves the hinge attachment screw exposed when the door is shut?
