Finish Carpenters, need opinions

skids

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Oct 14, 2012
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Bob, Brice, Seth.. I am hoping you can chime in here.. [wink]

I am at the last stage of a recessed panel Wainscot project and about to put quarter round on to complete the project and officially decided I hate the look of quarter round. It's too bland, I want something unique with more visual interest that ties in nicely with the panel molding/colonial look. In hindsight I should have scribed the floor, kinda ticked I didn't. Moving on...

I picked up some samples of the three different sizes of window stop (aka colonial stop), which looks like a miniature of Coloninal baseboard. Not sure I like this look either, however it does butt up nice and clean with my plinths, which project about 3/8ths of an inch. But it looks like a miniature of colonial base and therefore to me, looks like a mini imposter. I am going to paint out a mock-up of this to see what I think once it's finished..Yes I know I am overthinking this, I just want to save myself from ripping it out later on.

My last option is the profile that is in the attachment here, which I am leaning towards. What I wanted to hear from you folks is if you have any creative solutions here for this? Maybe a profile you could recommend to get a nicer look than quarter round; even if it's something I rip down from another profile.
 
I also like these, not sure where to find the 198, which looks nice. Either way just want to get some validation I thinking about this the right way and some opinions. The one numbered 197 is 1/2" x 3/4" (same as shoe) and the 2nd one numbered 198 is 1/2" x 7/8".

 
You say quarter round, which is just the wrong piece for what your'e doing. Do you mean base shoe (1/2" wide by 3/4" tall)?

By 3/8" thick colonial base and rip the top off the height you want. Just watch the recess in the back of the base, if you cut in that area you will need to pad the bottom edge to keep it plumb. Leave additional height to scribe it in.

Tom

 
tjbnwi said:
You say quarter round, which is just the wrong piece for what your'e doing. Do you mean base shoe (1/2" wide by 3/4" tall)?

By 3/8" thick colonial base and rip the top off the height you want. Just watch the recess in the back of the base, if you cut in that area you will need to pad the bottom edge to keep it plumb. Leave additional height to scribe it in.

Tom

Yes, either one really..Seems folks here in the Northeast use the terms very loosely for each. I understand the difference, but very good point to note-thanks. What I purchased is actually quarter round, I haven't bothered going out and getting samples of shoe because I feel they are so similar. Best part is, I spray primed all the quarter round like idiot and now I am stuck with several hundred feet of it and hate it!!

The samples of colonial stop I have don't have the recesses, but also another great tip. thx! Nice thing about using the colonial stop is it minimizes some of the self returns I would have to do with shoe moldings since I can butt into the plinth. Also think it once I rip it down I might now have to scribe much since it should bend into place no? But...I don't mind doing those things, just want it to look nice. The project came out fantastic, I just don't want to screw it up now by skimping in an area where I can put another detail element.
 
I'd like to see a photo of your wainscoting to put your question in perspective.  I normally use a shoe mold stained to match the flooring.  It's unobtrusive and fits a lot of different trim styles.
 
Shoe is so different to me, I can see the quarter round mistake before I walk in the door. Get some shoe and try it.

If you don't scribe it and have what should be a parallel line above it will look like crap.

I would not do a self return on the shoe, that would open a whole other can of worms. A few wipes of a plane at the ends will solve the thickness difference. Te shoe can be pushed to the floor without scribing, profile hides the undulation (unless the floor is really bad).

As Joe pointed out, match this piece to the floor, not the panel.

Tom
 
deepcreek said:
I'd like to see a photo of your wainscoting to put your question in perspective.  I normally use a shoe mold stained to match the flooring.  It's unobtrusive and fits a lot of different trim styles.

Thanks, see picture attached, flooring isn't too bad. But there are some areas where I leveled up the bottom rail that have larger gaps. So judging by this shot doesn't look bad but the room will need something. I would want it to be painted not stained since the flooring will eventually in the next 2 years be refinished. Also, in this area I haven't seen the shoe matched to the floor, maybe it's a regional thing, but never come across it in a painted panel situation.
 
I couldn't agree with Tom more, base shoe is what you need, anything else will look wrong.
I often see the 1/4 round mistaken for shoe and they are not the same.

Mike
 
I'll also go with the base shoe.  Although it may be tempting to want more details down there, the molding is really utilitarian (designed to hide a gap and minor undulations) and you want your eyes drawn upwards to the other more detailed moldings.

Peter
 
skids said:
Thanks, see picture attached, flooring isn't too bad. But there are some areas where I leveled up the bottom rail that have larger gaps. So judging by this shot doesn't look bad but the room will need something. I would want it to be painted not stained since the flooring will eventually in the next 2 years be refinished.

I agree shoe is better but if the floor is wavy I think your eye sees the difference.

Not that you asked but I think that door casing needs a back band to separate it from the panel stile. It's really hard to see how your paneling looks overall, but in this picture it really looks like the door casing and the paneling stile are running into each other.
Tim
 
I've used door stop instead of shoe or quarter round.  Much smaller profile (1/4 thickness) and an overall better look.  Can even get it pre-primed at the big box stores.

Jon
 
Seeing the photo, I'd use an Oak shoe with a clear finish or maybe just a light stain.  It's pretty inexpensive and you can swap it out if you refinish the floors significantly darker.
 
Skids, do you have any photos of the wainscot install? Seeing that may help offer a good solution without guessing!

Thanks in advance!!!

Bob

Edit: Nevermind, I scrolled past it!
 
I agree on the oak shoe. If you poly it to match your floor, it'll become more fluent and most likely be less visible!

Bob
 
What about some 3/8" x 1-3/8" WM-946 Ogee Stop?

For some reason, I can't seem to get the shot in here.  Go to Smoot Lumber's millwork catalog, p. A-58.  It's about half-way down the page.  Might look good in this application, stood vertically. 

[smile]
 
Builderbob and Deepcreek,  I don't mean to interrupt the OP's thread, but I would like to see a pic of the stained shoe.  I've never seen that install.

Skids - I see that you are using drywall as part of your wainscot paneling.  Are you planning to spray finish or other?  I've seen this numerous times and I can tell right away the difference between the Drywall area and the MDF due to the texture of the paint.  If there is away to match the finished quality of the MDF with drywall.  Let me know
 
Tim Raleigh said:
skids said:
Thanks, see picture attached, flooring isn't too bad. But there are some areas where I leveled up the bottom rail that have larger gaps. So judging by this shot doesn't look bad but the room will need something. I would want it to be painted not stained since the flooring will eventually in the next 2 years be refinished.

I agree shoe is better but if the floor is wavy I think your eye sees the difference.

Not that you asked but I think that door casing needs a back band to separate it from the panel stile. It's really hard to see how your paneling looks overall, but in this picture it really looks like the door casing and the paneling stile are running into each other.
Tim

You may not be able to make it out in the pic, but there is standout from the stile/rails. Thats Windsor casing, and 5/8s tapered plinth on the bottom. There is about 3/8" standout off the panels all the way down to the floor. All the panel stock was regular windsorone 3/4" I believe. The top is capped off with a standard pine nosing and scotia with ears on everything. I dont' have a pic of these two rooms I am referencing for the shoemolding on hand, but here is a pic I had in my phone of the staircase I did which has the same Wainscot detail.
 
builderbob said:
I agree on the oak shoe. If you poly it to match your floor, it'll become more fluent and most likely be less visible!

Bob

Is this common in CT? Not here in MA, unless I just miss it in all the applications I have eyeballed. Maybe in some kitchens I have seen shoe matched to stained cabinets. Problem I would have is matching that floor finish since it's ambered to heck. It's a Harco finish, which is crap. I plan on refinishing with a Poloplaz when I redo them, but the match would be tough and make the poly'd shoe stand out.

I would have to see pics though to know for sure. 
 
CarolinaNomad said:
Builderbob and Deepcreek,  I don't mean to interrupt the OP's thread, but I would like to see a pic of the stained shoe.  I've never seen that install.

Skids - I see that you are using drywall as part of your wainscot paneling.  Are you planning to spray finish or other?  I've seen this numerous times and I can tell right away the difference between the Drywall area and the MDF due to the texture of the paint.  If there is away to match the finished quality of the MDF with drywall.  Let me know

Sticking with the drywall, wasn't looking to make the project that complex otherwise I might as well went with raised panel wainscot. I didn't want shadow box, and didn't want the labor and expense of RP, so this was a nice happy medium. Although it was more work than I anticipated, but I love it nonetheless. I find sanding with the DTS with like a 220 calms that paint down enough. Priming helps too.
 
skids said:
I dont' have a pic of these two rooms I am referencing for the shoemolding on hand, but here is a pic I had in my phone of the staircase I did which has the same Wainscot detail.

Looks really good.
It's really subjective, but if the room can handle it I like more shadow line created by the back band and I like the cap to run into it rather ears. I don't think there is a right way and each clients requirements and room proportions etc. needs to be considered.
Thanks for posting, from here your work looks excellent.
Tim
 
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