Fisch Brad Point set

[Cheese]

I've been looking for a good brad point set and had settled on the Fisch but needed a hole that was 1/8" (0.125) on the money and discovered that every 1/8" Fisch bit I tested at my local Woodcraft using my Mitutoyo digital calipers was undersized.

I do know that metal working drill bits are usually .001”/.003” undersized if measured at the chuck end. I assumed it was because drill bits usually drill a few thousandths oversize, a kind of built-in Kentucky windage.  [big grin]

I’d suggest drilling a hole with the bit in hard wood and then measure the diameter of the hole, as that’s what you’re probably really after, an accurate sized hole.

 

[Sanderxpander]

Sometimes what's marked metric is really imperial and the other way around. I have a Bosch set with an 8mm bit that's really 5/16ths of an inch. Which means my holes end up slightly undersized for an 8mm dowel.

 

[sancho57]

OK, I tested some more of them. The smallest four all wobble enough to cause an over sized hole and make the drill "shake". The 1/8" wobbles just a bit. Probably not bad enough to be a problem. Checked more working up in size and did not have any issues. I did not try them all because the sizes above the 1/8" that I tested seemed to indicate that they would all be fine.

For comparison and verification I checked the same sizes in the same drill (and chuck) in Insty and in another high quality twist drill set that I have. No wobble.

The four smallest are the non-brad point which in itself doesn't explain the bent bit factor but it could be they are from a different manufacturing source with lesser tolerances. Just speculating.

Beyond the above issue they are really nice.

It would be good to know from other owners if the same issue occurs wit the same bits.

Seth

I should be getting mine Thursday. Ill be outof town for a couple of weeks. Ill let ya know after i check them

 

[gsdvorak]

I received mine yesterday- I didn't have time to drill test holes, but I did put a few of them in the drill chuck and gave them a spin.  The only one that seemed to have very minor wobble was the 1/16" bit.  Otherwise the ones I tried seemed to spin straight. 

I know- not much help at this point, but I'll try to make some time tonight to drill a few holes as I'm curious how they cut vs. my other Fisch bits.

Regards,
Gerald

 

[Cheese]

Sometimes what's marked metric is really imperial and the other way around. I have a Bosch set with an 8mm bit that's really 5/16ths of an inch. Which means my holes end up slightly undersized for an 8mm dowel.

That's not good... [sad]  [sad]...I'm surprised that Bosch would have something like that fall through the cracks. What probably happened is that some 5/16" (.3125ø) drill rod got mixed in with some 8mm (.3149ø) drill rod. Pretty easy to do as the difference in diameter is only .002". However, a robust QA program would certainly ferret out those issues.

 

[Sanderxpander]

The drill bit actually turned out to be marked imperial. But the slot in the case it came in has 8mm on it - in fact the entire 100 part case is marked in metric because nobody uses imperial here at all and Bosch is a German company.

 

[semenza]

I ended up checking the rest. These sizes all wobble in the set I have.

1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64", 5/32", 15/64", 3/8".  Though the 1/8" and 3/8" are tolerable.

Sent  a message to Fisch.

Seth

 

[deepcreek]

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] -

Are you seeing the wobble as you roll them across a flat surface or only when chucked in a drill bit?

Do you have a drill press with less run out than a cordless drill to check them in?

Just a thought.

At this point, I am leaning heavily away from the Fisch towards the more expensive Fuller.

Joe

 

[semenza]

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] -

Are you seeing the wobble as you roll them across a flat surface or only when chucked in a drill bit?

Do you have a drill press with less run out than a cordless drill to check them in?

Just a thought.

At this point, I am leaning heavily away from the Fisch towards the more expensive Fuller.

Joe

Not scientific but it is pretty easy to detect.

  Chucked in a C12 jacobs.  Wobble is visible while just watching it spin. But    very  apparent when actually drilling. This is not just a tiny bit that is difficult to discern. You can't miss it as the drill shakes side to side. Piece being drilled clamped down.  It isn't the C12, the chuck, or a shaky hand as the rest  of the bits are fine (actually better than fine .... really smooth) as well as other bits I own in the same size. I also tried the wobbly ones twice , re-chucking them too. I could put them in a drill press but there really is no need.
Seth

 

[rvieceli]

[member=6237]deepcreek[/member] You might also want to take a look at regular bits from a quality manufacturer. I'm partial to Norseman.

I drill a bunch of holes in hardwoods (mostly walnut and maple) and have as good of results from either 118 or 135 split point bits as I do from brad points. Using a sacrificial backer board on the exit side cuts down on tear out on exit. Plus you can use them on the metal of your choice as well.

You can also get the bits in jobber, mechanic and screw machine lengths
https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/norseman-29-pc-drill-bit-set.html
https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/hi-molybdenum-29-pc-drill-bit-set-jobber.html

or cover all the bases with letter and wire size plus inch
https://www.harryepstein.com/index....-bit-set-jobber-length-black-gold-sp-115.html

 

[deepcreek]

Good suggestions.  I'll check them out.

The main reason I want brad points is for precise positioning.

I just don't think I can get split points aligned on my layout marks as accurately.

 

[rvieceli]

Assuming you are using a drill press with the work piece locked down, you'll only need one brad point or a piece of drill rod with a machined center point to position your hole. Then swap out the centering bit for the real drill bit and have at it.

 

[deepcreek]

I ended up buying the 28 piece Fuller brad point set from Tools for Working Wood.https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/CFF/item/MS-BPD.XX

Imperial sizes in 1/64 increments from 5/64 to 1/2" in a steel case.  Individual replacement bits are available.

Made in USA.  $200 + shipping which was surprisingly reasonable

It seemed expensive at first but not after I considered what I had spent on some Festool accessories.

I'm very impressed and can hardly wait to use them.

 

[rljatl]

Just in case someone is still looking for Famag imperial (? - Amazon listing does not say) brad points...

Famag HSS drill bits

 

[semenza]

Update ...........................

        When I contacted Fisch they told me to go through the retailer. I had contacted Fisch first because I really only needed / wanted the defective bits replaced as opposed to the whole set. I figured the retailer would have to do the whole set.  My concern was that I could end up with another set with same or different bent bits.

      Turns out the retailer was able to just send replacements. The replacements are fine and do not wobble. So I must have just been unlucky with the first bits.

      I will say again these are really nice bits. They cut clean, fast , and effortlessly.

Seth

 

[sancho57]

Glad It worked out for you Seth. Yea they are nice bits arent they

 

[Michael Kellough]

I have a much older (very seldom used) smaller set of similar Fisch bits. I seldom use them because they suck.

I was reminded yesterday when I needed to quickly hog out some pine to provide clearance for a cable tie and the Fisch bits were on top in the bit drawer of my site kit. The 10mm bit tended to go sideways. Even though the wood was soft a chip got stuck on one of the points and threw the bit off. If I reversed the drill frequently to wipe the chips off the points it would track better but any old bit would have done a better job than that Fisch.

Maybe if I take time and sharpen it correctly (it’s still “factory sharp”) it would work better.