Folks Hate The Metric System

Jim, My pops taught me about using sticks when I was first helping him on finish jobs when I was young and I thought he was crazy for using a stick instead of his tapes. But now everytime I talk with my pops I always remind him of the screw ups I have had using tapes and he then has to tell me, "use the sticks dummy, they ain't never wrong"...
 
Mike_Chrest said:
  I should be able to reach for a tool, set the depth almost without thinking(I think in inches) and cut.

I strongly suggest you never ever use a tool like a circular saw without thinking.

[/quote]

Thinking is overrated
 
Very true  ;D

But a colleague of mine just cut his thumb on a table saw last weekend. Most of it is still there, luckily. I know I'll be paying more attention to safety in the coming weeks for certain...

 
Hey guys, all of these systems are easy if you just think about.  Personally I wish I'd grown up with the metric, however that's not the case.

So for all the rest of us out here just go to chips fly.com and buy a $30 indicator.

At the push of a button you go from inches, to millimeters, to fractions.

It's just that simple;D
 
Ok I am certainly not opposed to the metric system. Thanks for the chart! I am sure this will find a home on my wall in the shop. Now for my question on this, I see on the chart that 1/2 in = 12.70 mm. I made a cut last night that need to be 1/2 in depth and ended up playing with the saw on some scrap pieces until I found my correct depth. Then put the saw on the guide and made the cut only to find out that it was short, duh did not take into account the thickness of the guide. After several more trials found that 1/2 in was 19mm on my saw / guide combination. So if I my math does not fail me that makes the thickness of the guide lets say 6 mm. Am I thinking this through correctly?

Or if anyone else has a better method please share, I just picked up the system and absolutely love it, just trying to find my way with it...

Brian
 
Brian,
[welcome] to the FOG.  I have not measured my rail, but if my memory serves me correctly the general rule of thumb is to add 5 mm for the thickness of the rail.  If I get a chance later I will measure mine.

Peter
 
You want to add 5mm for the rail, as Peter stated. You also want the blade to extend below the work piece a bit. If you assume 13mm (rounding up) plus 5mm for the rail, your blade is only protruding 1mm at a depth of 19mm.

Tom
 
Thanks for the info! I am glad I found this forum. So many little nuggets available! Just so little time.

Thanks again,

Brian
 
I would like to know how the OP who started this thread could be a member for 4 years before posting this, his first post.

By the way leadpipe58, welcome  [welcome]
 
Festoolian said:
I would like to know how the OP who started this thread could be a member for 4 years before posting this, his first post.

By the way leadpipe58, welcome   [welcome]

Ati2ude is the person who revived this old thread. leadpipe58 started it 4 years ago. So it'a Ati2ude who deserves the  [welcome]
 
Festoolian said:
I would like to know how the OP who started this thread could be a member for 4 years before posting this, his first post.

By the way leadpipe58, welcome   [welcome]

Actually the OP became a member in March 2007, posted this one time in April 2007, and was last active as a member in June 2007.  He might visit without signing in.

And in case you were not properly welcomed -  [welcome] Festoolian to the FOG!

Peter
 
Being an ME i use it all the time. it is an easy system, that meant to be easy. this could turn into a which is better arrangement. which it should not...people seem to like to think that it is better and that it reflects well on them, and that the rest of the world uses it so we should too. unless you you need a global standard in your shop,please.

my advice is to pick one and stick to it. converting back and forth will cause problems..you do not need to bring the issues of significant rounding error into your shop.as long as the mm is a small enough unit of measurement for you there is really no issue..if you want smaller units it will be a problem.

 
tallgrass said:
Being an ME i use it all the time. it is an easy system, that meant to be easy. this could turn into a which is better arrangement. which it should not...people seem to like to think that it is better and that it reflects well on them, and that the rest of the world uses it so we should too. unless you you need a global standard in your shop,please.

my advice is to pick one and stick to it. converting back and forth will cause problems..you do not need to bring the issues of significant rounding error into your shop.as long as the mm is a small enough unit of measurement for you there is really no issue..if you want smaller units it will be a problem.

Sound wisdom tallgrass.

A company that I worked for was under pressure to convert it's manufactured products to the global standard (metric).  It also had pressure from U.S. customers to have their custom machines built with imperial dimensions.  The decision was made to continue with imperial and to also build the export machines in metric.  I spent over a quarter million dollars for precision measuring tools alone.  Most all of the machine tools were CNC so they could handle both systems.  A huge early mistake was to "dual dimension" the mfg. drawings -- this caused countless mistakes misreading the drawings and in turn scrapping parts.  We found a number of old school machinists that would sit at their bench converting metric drawings to imperial & writing the dimensions on the drawings - more mistakes!  I could go on & on with problems the company had but I wholly agree with tallgrass -- pick a system and stick with it as much as possible.    The metric system really is very simple however most mistake occur when converting and switching back & forth. 
 
Slowly I have taken to metric and now am very comfortable in using it.  Festool has forced and now has helped me work and convert to metric.  Now I've started to use measuring tools with metric scales.  I do convert between Imperial and Metric when working; however, it's hard for me to picture a Metric size and this is the only reason why I still use Imperial.

I still use imperial at work; however, on some of the U.S. Federal Construction Projects I've worked on the dimensions were in Metric.
 
i do find it frustrating that the metric system being a 10 base system has issues when measuring geometry where ratios are so easy and i can decide when and how much rounding error i am will do deal with. for example if i have an object that happens to be 1 meter and i simply want to turn into three pieces i am screwed simply because of the ten base system .or opposite, i want to make 3 units that add up to one meter. i am glad the Greeks did not have it ...i wonder what their beautiful ratios would look like if it all had to be units of ten limited to what they could resolve?i can not imagine how hard it was before the digital age.
 
tallgrass said:
i do find it frustrating that the metric system being a 10 base system has issues when measuring geometry where ratios are so easy and i can decide when and how much rounding error i am will do deal with. for example if i have an object that happens to be 1 meter and i simply want to turn into three pieces i am screwed simply because of the ten base system .or opposite, i want to make 3 units that add up to one meter. i am glad the Greeks did not have it ...i wonder what their beautiful ratios would look like if it all had to be units of ten limited to what they could resolve?i can not imagine how hard it was before the digital age.

They used the Golden Ratio almost religiously, I have begun applying it to the proportions of my projects and haven't yet been disappointed.
 
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