Michael Kellough
Member
Thanks Paul, that’s him, though when I first read about him he still went bu Franz. I didn’t know about the starch.
Glue Bottles - What you Love or Hate
- Thread starter ChuckS
- Start date
hdv
Member
As I wrote earlier, I like to use white glue very much. I prefer it over Titebond. But I figure that the people making that stuff would have added a simple and cheap ingredient such as starch themselves if it really would improve their product. I think I will refrain from doing that...
Packard
Member
Starch is used to increase viscosity in gravy. It does leave a kind of gritty feeling at the rear of your tongue. So if you drink white glue, and you don’t mind the gritty feel, then by all means go ahead and add starch.
Amusingly, when they first came out with those little clear packets of laundry soap, and dishwasher detergent, the packets were sticking together. To combat that tendency, the manufacturers added a bit of corn starch to minimize the sticking problem.
Do I want to add to my glue, a product that has demonstrated that it minimizes sticking problems?
In the framing business we used white glue. With small profiles and end grain to end grain joints, miter joint failures were common.
When Corner Weld, a PVA glue arrived, everyone switched, I never heard of anyone switching back.
White glue is for gluing paper and cardboard, or if nothing, absolutely nothing else is available.
To me, it makes no sense to use glue that needs extra work when there're tons of affordable choices that are available out there. Glue itself is already "messy" to use, and I, for one, have no appetite to make it more messy, if you know what I mean.
luvmytoolz
Member
I've ordered a container of that powdered Cascamite, very curious to try that when it comes.
Packard
Member
Google says (the last phrase is probably an hyperbole):
The disadvantage of Cascamite is that it sets glass hard and is ruinous on edge tools if you need to clean any off the work - planing concrete is probably easier.
Mini Me
Member
In your opinion, obviously the professional woodworker with decades of training and work has a different one he has used during his working life and had no issues.
Michael Kellough
Member
Of course Franks joints fit so well that spit would have been nearly strong enough.
But then seasonal changes could've made his joints (no pun intended for his body) weak, depending on when he did the project.
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luvmytoolz
Member
@Packard
Given how tough a lot of our Aussie hardwoods are, I'm never too concerned about blunting tools.
You are referring to Elmer's school white glue or the like.
Other white glue such as LePage white glue is for wood projects:
- Multi-Purpose Glue: Adhesive is ideal for high-strength, permanent bonding on wood and other porous materials
- Strong and Durable: Glue forms a bond with two tonnes of strength; stable for up to five freeze/thaw cycles
bobtskutter
Member
I've been using plasters white PVA for the last few projects (which are all indoor projects) It's cheap, has a long open time, is easy to get hold of and so far seems to work OK. Should I be worried that all my projects are going to fall apart?
Bob
Bob
luvmytoolz
Member
While I've always been a little bit suss on the long term quality of glues aimed at being used in schools, I've been using all manner of brands of standard white pva for decades and have never had a joint fail in anything I've built.
The only reason I generally stick to Titebond in recent years is because the average of tests I've seen always seem to show it as being superior, so I don't mind paying a bit extra if it provides an improvement.
For lesser important projects however I still have a large amount of white PVA that I use.
As long as you used it without thinning with water as suggested for plastering, you are fine.
www.adkwik.co.uk
I've used LePage white glue and yellow glue (TB & Lee Valley) interchangeably.
How Long To Leave PVA Before Plastering
Using PVA glue for plaster is generally a good idea, but there are a few things to consider. Find out everything you need to know...
www.adkwik.co.uk
I've used LePage white glue and yellow glue (TB & Lee Valley) interchangeably.
hdv
Member
Hmm, that might be, but I haven't noticed it being particularly worse than other glues. Almost all glues are harder than wood (unless you live down under
), so they will always be a bit hard on edge tools. It might help that I try to remove squeeze out when it is rubbery, or with a scraper after it has set. Anyway, I think I'll trust my own experience over Google...Packard
Member
In the picture framing business, there are framers who proudly say, “I never get any squeeze-out. I know precisely how much glue to spread for each joint.”
To which I would say that probably 30% of their joints are glue-starved.
I strive for a very slight, but nearly uniform amount of squeeze-out along the entire length of the joint. It is the reason I use a brush. I can coat the surface very evenly. I believe that squeeze-out is the only reliable indicator to avoid glue-starved joints.
My one exception is the installation of woven cane panels, for which I use the traditional hide glue. I do my best to evenly coat so that there is no squeeze out as the squeeze out is difficult to clean and looks dreadful.
To which I would say that probably 30% of their joints are glue-starved.
I strive for a very slight, but nearly uniform amount of squeeze-out along the entire length of the joint. It is the reason I use a brush. I can coat the surface very evenly. I believe that squeeze-out is the only reliable indicator to avoid glue-starved joints.
My one exception is the installation of woven cane panels, for which I use the traditional hide glue. I do my best to evenly coat so that there is no squeeze out as the squeeze out is difficult to clean and looks dreadful.
semenza
Member
Best I have used has been Lee Valley PVA. Thicker than Tite Bond which I find makes it easier to work with. Joints have proved very strong. Light / medium tan color. Haven't had any issue with the thickness making joints less tight. LV is not currently shipping it to cold regions due to concerns about freezing. It will become available on the site again shortly.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/sho...e/45104-lee-valley-cabinetmakers-glue-2002-gf
I have posted previously that I am a Glu-Bot fan. I know some don't like them, but personally I can't imagine a better glue bottle.
Seth
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/sho...e/45104-lee-valley-cabinetmakers-glue-2002-gf
I have posted previously that I am a Glu-Bot fan. I know some don't like them, but personally I can't imagine a better glue bottle.
Seth
luvmytoolz
Member
After you've mixed a batch of Cascamite up have you found it can be stored for a while for later projects, or it needs to be fully used at the time?Hmm, that might be, but I haven't noticed it being particularly worse than other glues. Almost all glues are harder than wood (unless you live down under
Packard
Member
We used white glue in gallon jugs. Sometimes it was “Elmer’s” sometimes it was another brand. Never listed as “school” glue. Seasonal movements on mitered corners would eventually tear the joints apart.
A 3” wide moulding on a mitered picture frame meant the outer dimensions were 6” larger than the inner dimensions. Which meant that outer perimeter expanded and contracted more than the inner perimeter. Eventually, it would tear apart the joint.
The PVA glues largely eliminated that issue.
You wrote: :White glue is for gluing paper and cardboard, or if nothing, absolutely nothing else is available.
The white glue you refer to above has to be school white glue because a lot of other white glue is PVA glue and PVA glue is not just for paper and cardboard.
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