Gluing/finishing Jatoba/Brazilian Cherry

[rmwarren]

I am making a counter top for some cabinets in my office/workroom. About 30 by 80, the top will be used for misc. small projects including leatherwork, electronics, flytying, etc. Nothing where I will drill or saw on it. I don't plan on beating it up but won't baby it either.

Being cheap frugal I managed to source some close-out flooring, sold as Brazilian Cherry so I assume it is Jatoba but I have never seen the real stuff before so it could be most anything. Most of the pieces were < 24", but it cost $2/PSF so I was not arguing. I ripped off the T&G, dominoed the ends and glued them up before sanding. It is harder than most anything I have ever worked with, as I learned when sanding off the finish. Without the RAS I would still be out there.

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It was cold out when I did the initial glue up, around 30 degrees and well below the temp spec for Titebond II. So far a couple of the joints have failed, but not many. I am not sure if the issue was the temperature or if Titebond has trouble holding since the wood seems a mite oily. I think I am okay with the end joints but really don't want to have an issue when I glue up the edges. I plan to double up the front edge to get 1.5" thickness and probably breadboard the one exposed end.

So - my 2 questions are:

1.  Any suggestions regarding what glue to use? Anything perform well in low temps and/or with very dense hardwood?
2.  Is Osmo or Surfix a good choice to finish this material and for this use? I have no experience with oils, but after watching a Surfix video I am eager to try it out..

As always, I appreciate any feedback or suggestions.

RMW

 

[Scott B.]

Richard

What grit did you leave off at with sanding? If you are still in the 80-100 range, then yes a penetrating oil such as Surfix or Watco would be good choices for your application. I would even let the oil cure up and then put a protective clear over it.

Peter Parfitt will be along soon and I am gonna go out on a limb and predict that he will tell you that Osmo would be a brilliant choice.  [big grin]

 

[rmwarren]

Richard

What grit did you leave off at with sanding? If you are still in the 80-100 range, then yes a penetrating oil such as Surfix or Watco would be good choices for your application. I would even let the oil cure up and then put a protective clear over it.

Peter Parfitt will be along soon and I am gonna go out on a limb and predict that he will tell you that Osmo would be a brilliant choice.  [big grin]

Scott, so far I have only rough sanded to 50 with the RO125. Are you saying that it is better not to sand too fine when using oil?

Thanks.

RMW

 

[tjbnwi]

For oil, do not past 150. buff the oil in, about 30 minutes sit time. Wipe after an hour.

The glue failed due to the tempeture. I've never had TB fail on any cherry. It glues up very well.

Tom

 

[amt]

Be sure to check with Osmo documents regarding compatibility.  I learned the hard way that Ipe (Brazilian Walnut) is not compatible (1000 ft^2 of flooring later).

Waterlox will probably work for Jabota, but again, check to make sure.

 

[Walk On Wood]

Interestingly, just today I finished up some Jatoba  picture frames for my son's room to match his floors.  It glues up fine with Titebond. I sanded to 80 grit with the RO90 and finished with Waterlox.  I have sanded about 100,000' of Jatoba flooring over the years and never had a single finish issue.

 

[tiralie]

1.  Any suggestions regarding what glue to use? Anything perform well in low temps and/or with very dense hardwood?

The consensus is to make sure all glue surfaces are flat and not burnished and to glue within 10 min of milling. The moisture content must be below 10% as Jatoba shrinks considerably.  
Tim

 

[Scott B.]

Are you saying that it is better not to sand too fine when using oil?

Thanks.

RMW
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On woods that are more dense, it is better to keep them "open" but still reasonably smooth. 80 is a good grit to be at with this species.

That is always one of the first considerations on spec-ing out any finish system...the species of wood being finished.

 

[rmwarren]

Are you saying that it is better not to sand too fine when using oil?

Thanks.

RMW

On woods that are more dense, it is better to keep them "open" but still reasonably smooth. 80 is a good grit to be at with this species.

That is always one of the first considerations on spec-ing out any finish system...the species of wood being finished.

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Thanks Scott, that tip alone was worth the price of admission. Being and A/R personality type I would have over-sanded.

RMW 

 

[lambeater]

Richard I seem to read a lot but have not done it is to wipe the oily surfaces with denatured alcohol before gluing.
thx
Lambeater

 

[rmwarren]

Thanks for the helpful suggestions so far. I finally got the glue up finished by using lacquer thinner to clean the edges and doing it inside the house to keep material warm. Sanded to 50 grit before I got sidetracked a few weeks ago, so I am hoping to start finishing next weekend:

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Based on comments below I am planning to try out Waterlox. I downloaded their instructions and they recommend application above 60 degrees. I can get the shop to this temp for application but can't maintain it for an extended curing time period. Our weather will range from mid-50's to around freezing thru the rest of March. If I finish at 60 degree but the temp drops into this range while curing will I end up with issues?

Thanks in advance.

RMW

 

[Scott B.]

Thanks for the helpful suggestions so far. I finally got the glue up finished by using lacquer thinner to clean the edges and doing it inside the house to keep material warm. Sanded to 50 grit before I got sidetracked a few weeks ago, so I am hoping to start finishing next weekend:

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Based on comments below I am planning to try out Waterlox. I downloaded their instructions and they recommend application above 60 degrees. I can get the shop to this temp for application but can't maintain it for an extended curing time period. Our weather will range from mid-50's to around freezing thru the rest of March. If I finish at 60 degree but the temp drops into this range while curing will I end up with issues?

Thanks in advance.

RMW

It's risky, Richard, because it is a polymerized coating (not a penetrator). It actually forms a bit of a skin on the wood, which needs cure time to fully harden. And as a heads up, Waterlox is some of the most awful smelling stuff I have ever used. It is a really good finish though. If possible, keep it at 50* and above. And understand that you will be doing multiple coats to get it where you want it.