Gluing up speaker cabinet - 1/16” inch gap to fix - need help please.

[Crazyraceguy]

I would just break the corners by hand with a sanding block. Anything smaller that an 1/8" or so is difficult to do with a machine anyway.

 

[sebr023]

Follow up on the build for those interested:
Crossover are now glue in place.
Next step is to glue the back pannel. Then Install foam. Glue up the front baffle, apply stain, apply “clear”.

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[Vtshopdog]

Nice work.  At this rate you will be able to plug then in within a few days.  Always fun moment to fire them up first time.

From question in earlier post, yes Domino machine is absolutely wonderful.  If you can justify cost of owning one, highly recommend as will many others on this forum

 

[Cheese]

...apply stain, apply “clear”.

If this side is going to show, I'd suggest starting the staining process on a small area of this side of the cabinet. There appears to be several areas where excess glue squeezed out and those areas may or may not take the stain depending upon the amount of glue on the surface/in the grain and the color of the stain.

Some light sanding and then testing with alcohol or water will give you an idea of what areas will hold the stain.

[attachimg=1]

 

[ChuckM]

Cheese's advice is spot-on. All glue residue spots must be cleaned up before finishing, or they'll show.

A card scraper user? If so, it'll just take a few sweeps to fix a spot, without damaging the veneer to the core.

 

[sebr023]

Nice work.  At this rate you will be able to plug then in within a few days.  Always fun moment to fire them up first time.

From question in earlier post, yes Domino machine is absolutely wonderful.  If you can justify cost of owning one, highly recommend as will many others on this forum

Cant justify the cost for now, but definitely on my list!

Yes, and I can’t wait.
Tested the crossover couples weeks ago, to see if my solder were good. Wasn’t really impressed with the sound, but the driver didn’t have any box to go in! Haha.

I’ve received the kit in July 2021. Its been a year and a half I’m working on these. But we had a baby last septembre, and last summer we were renovating the house, so free time is not abundantly.

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[sebr023]

...apply stain, apply “clear”.

If this side is going to show, I'd suggest starting the staining process on a small area of this side of the cabinet. There appears to be several areas where excess glue squeezed out and those areas may or may not take the stain depending upon the amount of glue on the surface/in the grain and the color of the stain.

Some light sanding and then testing with alcohol or water will give you an idea of what areas will hold the stain.

[attachimg=1]

Thank you for this! Will definitely follow your advice.
I’ve tried staining the edge and the result wasn’t very nice, seemed butchy at some spot.

Will try to remove as much glue as I can before

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[sebr023]

Cheese's advice is spot-on. All glue residue spots must be cleaned up before finishing, or they'll show.

A card scraper user? If so, it'll just take a few sweeps to fix a spot, without damaging the veneer to the core.

I have one, but I don’t know if it’s not sharp enough or what, but didn’t find it very useful. Light chisel pass seemed to work better

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[Cheese]

Thank you for this! Will definitely follow your advice.
I’ve tried staining the edge and the result wasn’t very nice, seemed butchy at some spot.

Will try to remove as much glue as I can before

Ya, sanding or scraping like Chuck suggested is your best solution. Sand or scrape a troubled area and then put a small amount of distilled water, like from an eye dropper, on the surface. If the water beads up on the surface then the grain still has glue on it. If the water soaks in then you MIGHT be okay. You'll not know for sure until you stain the surface but you need to give yourself every advantage here because you'll not like the blotchy finish that will result from the glue contamination.

Use distilled water for testing because any minerals have been removed and you'll not have to deal with mineral deposit issues during the testing stage. If the water soaks into the wood, it will raise the grain in that area so let it dry fully and then lightly sand the area again to remove the fuzz.

A lighter colored stain will produce less noticeable blotches than a darker colored stain. Again, the amount of success you have with the glue removal issues may determine your choice of stain color. You've put a lot of work and time in this project so some extra prep time now is well worth the effort.

Good luck and keep us updated.  [smile]

Edit...Also once properly assembled and placed, let us know what your thoughts are on the sound signature of the speakers. There are some lurking audiophiles here.  [cool]

 

[Michael Kellough]

Great tips from Chuck ‘n Cheese 

Without a card scraper you can use utility knife blades. It’s easier to control a long paint scraper blade but you can get good results with a regular blade. Bending the blade so that the convex side goes forward allows you to do spot scraping.

 

[sebr023]

Yesterday I glued the back pannels .
Also, worry not! this is my garage, I’m not doing this is my kitchen like a mad man! [emoji23]

And I did protected the cords over for any glue spill :

Next step: installing foam.

After installing foam, should I glue the baffle and corian in, before finishing? Or after?

Edit: figured that I’ll glue the baffle after finishing all other side. I’ll use pinter tape to protect finished side from glue squeeze out.

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[sebr023]

[member=78111]sebr023[/member] they're looking good, nice rescue of the bulging glue up.

Have you cut the driver openings in your baffles yet?  Depending on frame shape and recess depth mid and bass driver openings can benefit from chamfering the backside of the opening to open up air flow around perimeter of the cone.  Just takes a couple minutes and can't hurt anything.

Below pic is an example, in this case I had to cut the chamfers before gluing, veneering and making final opening cuts on the front of box once it was assembled.  I sometimes do not extend chamfer behind mounting screws, especially in MDF, depends on driver frame and screw placement dimensions.  These are the 6 unrecessed areas around radius marked in Sharpie pen you see in this photo.

Also, here's a link to an article about this:http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/chamfer.htm

[attachimg=1]

How were you able to make the “pocket” where the router bit is going toward the Center in order to let more wood for the screws? Like the offset?!

Don’t know how to explain, I figured a screenshot would make it easier haha!

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[Vtshopdog]

I used my router mounted on circle cutting jig with a plunge base. 
Made one shallow pass full 360 degrees then followed with individual segments plunged deeper to create the chamfers for the driver backs. 

I did this before making the driver cutouts.  Since yours are already cut best bet will be using a piloted chamfer bit to cut the segments.  If your boxes are already glued (I think this is the case, no?) then you won’t be able to do it this way or you will need some sort of router bit with top mount pilot bearing, likely hard to find and/or expensive.

Cut out by hand with a rasp??

 

[sebr023]

I used my router mounted on circle cutting jig with a plunge base. 
Made one shallow pass full 360 degrees then followed with individual segments plunged deeper to create the chamfers for the driver backs. 

I did this before making the driver cutouts.  Since yours are already cut best bet will be using a piloted chamfer bit to cut the segments.  If your boxes are already glued (I think this is the case, no?) then you won’t be able to do it this way or you will need some sort of router bit with top mount pilot bearing, likely hard to find and/or expensive.

Cut out by hand with a rasp??

They are done by now. But I remember I wanted to ask you.

It’s pretty neat how it’s done.

For mine I just used a smaller quarter round bit. Used a 3/8 radius.
Could have gone way bigger with the corian baffle.

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