Guide rail size opinions wanted

Mort said:
I'm glad you do that, in the future sometime I'd like to get a TS75, but the 75" rail seems like kind of a weird size.

It's the length required to cross cut a sheet of ply.
 
PreferrablyWood said:
I'm needing to get an additional rail. I'll be getting the 2700mm rail, it will work for most everything I need to do, I can combine with my 1900 og 1080 rail for longer. I will likely also get the holy 1400 rail when the time comes that I need that functionality.
Something to consider as I have the 3000mm rail and in the states a 2700 is not ample enough to rip a 8 foot long sheet of plywood
 
Shane Holland said:
Mort said:
I'm glad you do that, in the future sometime I'd like to get a TS75, but the 75" rail seems like kind of a weird size.

It's the length required to cross cut a sheet of ply.

If you're fussy about square corners [big grin]
 
antss said:
It's my understanding that FT doesn't "provide" a rail with the track saws. 

The dealers "package" an FS1400 in their marketing material, but it's really a saw at $xxx, and a rail at $xxx combined for the price. You could place any FS rail into the "package" that you like, or even buy the saw without a rail.  In effect , making the 1900mm standard if you liked.

Perhaps [member=5]Bob Marino[/member] , or [member=48572]Shane Holland[/member] could chime in with the actual info ?

I will add some clarification. Festool does provide the 55"rail for the TS 55 and the 75" rail with the TS 75. That is the "package" that is sold to we dealers. We do not buy saw w/o the rails, that's simply not how Festool offers them for sale to dealers. However, dealers are free to choose to sell that saw with a different rail if a customer requests that. By far the most common swap is with substituting the LR 32 55" hole drilling rail for the standard 55" rail. Other rails can be substituted, no issues, other than a phone call for the swap.
 
Thanks for al the valuable input. It gave me a lot to think about. As you know everyone's work environment and requirements are different. It was great to read and learn from everyone. I have decided that what works best for me is to add an additional 1400 LR32 and join the 2 LR 32 together as a semi-permanent long track. In the past I made my own 2 part connectors using tips from a thread on here and they worked great. I decided to make a new set and make the connector 3 ft long to aid in the stability of the track I was able to get all the parts from McMaster Carr for $26. 3 ft was a length they sell and I figured I would just leave them at that length. It might help to keep them straight.

I hope this thread is as helpful to others as it has been to me. Thanks for sharing
 
[member=12645]UncleJoe[/member] would you mind sharing the thread you are referring to as well as the part numbers that you got from McMaster Carr .
 
Thanks for the clarification and education Bob and Shane.

It's awesome that you guys will substitute whichever rail a customer wants when they order a saw from you.
 
vkumar said:
[member=12645]UncleJoe[/member] would you mind sharing the thread you are referring to as well as the part numbers that you got from McMaster Carr .

Here is the original link.http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/homemade-guide-rail-connectors-(not-your-typical-ones)/

For parts I used these from McMaster Carr:
Part Number and Product description
6775T43  Low-Carbon Steel Metric Rectangular Bar 4mm Thick, 12mm Width, 3' Length Qty 2 5.84 each 11.68
6775T23 Low-Carbon Steel Metric Rectangular Bar 2mm Thick, 12mm Width, 3' Length QTY 2 4.69 each 9.38
91390A126 Alloy Steel Cup Point Set Screw M6 Size, 6mm Long, 1mm Pitch, packs of 100 1 pack 5.20

The beauty of this system is one bar presses against the other so no dimple in the aluminum from the set screw.
 
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