Hammer will not start

[patriot]

This machine is a single-phase 230V motor.  No surprise there, just wanted to be clear.

The rear safety 'switch' is pulled up with shield in place and the big red button on the left side of the machine has been tried both in and out.  (I am still not sure what this button is actually for.  May be a kill button.)

[attachimg=1]

My connectors are all L6-30A with a 10GA extension cable.  Breakers are 30A.

[attachimg=2]

I went so far as  to break open the machine plug to make sure that both hot leads are getting 120V and they both are.  I also double-checked that I connected the ground correctly in all connectors.

Recap:  I have tried starting the machine with the red button both in and out and rear safety lever up.  The motor is definitely getting the correct voltage, but it won't budge. 

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Wooden Skye]

I thought there was some additional safety thing that had to deal with the cover for the blade.  I don't have your machine but heard this from reading.  I think it needs to be fully engaged or something to that effect.

 

[southrider]

The hood that opens to change a blade has a safety cut out switch. It is the black knob that you slide down to open the blade compartment hood. It actually has 3 positions - with the middle position being the "on" or one that supplies power.

In other words - when closing the compartment if you pull the knob all the way up you have passed the on or power position. Lower it one click to the middle position.

 

[patriot]

[member=42863]SouthRider[/member]

Hallelujah!!!!!  That did it.  If that info was in the manual then I need glasses. [eek]  I thought that was a two-position switch.  I took a peek at that switch and its lever/button has to fall in the 'hole' before the machine with run.  Got it now.

I cannot thank you enough for your help.  What a sweet sounding motor it is.

Pizza's on the way!  BYOB! [big grin]

 

[patriot]

[member=14478]Wooden Skye[/member]

Yes, there is indeed an additional safety thing (switch), but I never knew it had three positions.  I always thought it had two like most switches.  [smile]

Live and learn.

Thanks for your help.

 

[southrider]

I only know because I've been there, done that, got the t shirt.........................

 

[ben_r_]

Similar thing happened to me when I brought home my N4400. The kill switch on the foot brake wasnt mounted properly and it was permanently depressed so the motor wouldnt start. Fixed the mounting of the switch and everything started up just fine.

 

[southrider]

PS  - I don't remember if it's in the manual or not - but in order to get this large a motor on single phase power compromises had to be made. Felder advises that you hold the power switch in for 3 seconds when starting this unit as the motor needs to "ramp up" to full power.

 

[patriot]

I only know because I've been there, done that, got the t shirt.........................

LOL!

 

[patriot]

PS  - I don't remember if it's in the manual or not - but in order to get this large a motor on single phase power compromises had to be made. Felder advises that you hold the power switch in for 3 seconds when starting this unit as the motor needs to "ramp up" to full power.

Yes, that I do know that bit of info because it is printed on the front of the machine next to the ON-OFF button.

[attachimg=1]

Thanks again for your help.

 

[Bohdan]

Looks like pressing the ON button activates a starter winding to get the single phase motor up to speed.

 

[Bob D.]

If it's 30A how big a motor can it be? MY Unisaw is 3HP and requires a 30A breaker and there are no special actions to take when firing it up. I just press the start button and bang it's up to speed in what seems like a fraction of a second.

If they are worried about you pressing the start button when the saw is running then the contactor should latch open to disengage the start winding once the start button is released. Pressing the stop button would enable the start winding again.

 

[southrider]

Don't know much about the technical aspects of the electrical setup. Felder rates the motors in kw, but it translates to a little over 4hp.

 

[ben_r_]

If it's 30A how big a motor can it be? MY Unisaw is 3HP and requires a 30A breaker and there are no special actions to take when firing it up. I just press the start button and bang it's up to speed in what seems like a fraction of a second.

If they are worried about you pressing the start button when the saw is running then the contactor should latch open to disengage the start winding once the start button is released. Pressing the stop button would enable the start winding again.

Interesting, my 3HP SawStop only requires a 20A circuit 220V.

And my N4400 suggests the same startup procedure of holding down the power button until the motor comes to full speed. It was my understanding that all Hammer products were like that.

 

[Bob D.]

My mistake, it is a 20 not 30 for my saw, the 240V charger for the wife's
Chevy Volt is on the 30A breaker next to the saw. Forgot which was which.

 

[HowardH]

I only know because I've been there, done that, got the t shirt.........................

+1... doh!!!  BTW, that big red button is a kill switch.

 

[wptski]

This machine is a single-phase 230V motor.  No surprise there, just wanted to be clear.

The rear safety 'switch' is pulled up with shield in place and the big red button on the left side of the machine has been tried both in and out.  (I am still not sure what this button is actually for.  May be a kill button.)

[attachimg=1]

My connectors are all L6-30A with a 10GA extension cable.  Breakers are 30A.

[attachimg=2]

I went so far as  to break open the machine plug to make sure that both hot leads are getting 120V and they both are.  I also double-checked that I connected the ground correctly in all connectors.

Recap:  I have tried starting the machine with the red button both in and out and rear safety lever up.  The motor is definitely getting the correct voltage, but it won't budge. 

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

A OT but I've never ever seen a black Fluke meter in a grey rubber boot!  I own lots of Fluke stuff, all dark grey meters in yellow boots or cases.

 

[Bohdan]

A OT but I've never ever seen a black Fluke meter in a grey rubber boot!  I own lots of Fluke stuff, all dark grey meters in yellow boots or cases.

Here is a grey one with a red boot but I've also never seen a black one with grey boot.

 

[wptski]

Here is a grey one with a red boot but I've also never seen a black one with grey boot.

Ah!  Yes, the Fluke 28 II Ex Intrinsically Safe are like that.

 

[ben_r_]

This machine is a single-phase 230V motor.  No surprise there, just wanted to be clear.

The rear safety 'switch' is pulled up with shield in place and the big red button on the left side of the machine has been tried both in and out.  (I am still not sure what this button is actually for.  May be a kill button.)

[attachimg=1]

My connectors are all L6-30A with a 10GA extension cable.  Breakers are 30A.

[attachimg=2]

I went so far as  to break open the machine plug to make sure that both hot leads are getting 120V and they both are.  I also double-checked that I connected the ground correctly in all connectors.

Recap:  I have tried starting the machine with the red button both in and out and rear safety lever up.  The motor is definitely getting the correct voltage, but it won't budge. 

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

A OT but I've never ever seen a black Fluke meter in a grey rubber boot!  I own lots of Fluke stuff, all dark grey meters in yellow boots or cases.

Same here and me neither. But I have always liked the yellow boot trademark of Fluke, so its never really bothered me. Would be cool if they offered some options though.