Help needed to choose the right trimmer

[Packard]

I agree, having multiple tools can promote efficiency.

I have a Porter-Cable dovetail jig.  I got tired of the setups, so I bought a second identical jig and a second identical router.  I keep each setup and I can do dovetails at a moment's notice. 

When I had my picture framing shop I had separate stations for various operations.  I found it far more efficient to have the screwdrivers, pliers, hammers, etc. that I would need at each station.  And I had about 12 utility knives.  For the cleanest cuts, I would use a blade once or twice and then replace it.  Each morning I  made sure each knife had a fresh blade. 

Duplicate tools seem like an extravagance, but if it promotes efficiency, then go for it.

I also have (now) three corded drills and one battery-powered one.  I have the corded drills at the workstations where they would be used.  For instance, I have a doweling station.  The corded drill spins faster and as a result drills faster with cleaner holes than the battery-powered drill.  I have another workstation where I  do pocket holes, and that too has its own corded drill. 

The battery-powered drill is for when I am away from a fixed workstation.

Not every trim router has to be a Festool router.  For some situations, a DeWalt or Bosch might work just as well, at 1/3 the cost.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Having a trimmer will definitely speed up my process, especially when I have the OF1010 already set for something else.

Best!

This is exactly how/why people who deal with these things in a production environment own 3, 4, 5, or more trim routers, many cordless, each set up specifically for their given task.

*cough* *cough* [member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] ...  [wink]

100% accurate!  [big grin]
It would probably be considered excessive for a hobby woodworker to have more than a couple of routers, but that just wouldn't work for me in a commercial cabinet shop.
At last count I have 7 corded trim routers and 3 cordless Makitas, that doesn't count any of the Festool routers, Triton in the table or any of the other full sized ones.
For me, it's about time. Sure, changing bits only takes a minute, but doing that, then adjusting the height, adding an edge-guide, swapping to a tilt base, or an underscribe base, etc. it all adds up and if you are constantly switching back and forth, it gets old real quick.

As afish and squall-line said, I don't consider trimming and finishing as a one-step operation, so that takes a minimum of 2 routers right there. They would be totally dedicated to that, so then you need at least one more to be able to do anything else without having to break-down one of those set-ups. It can get out of control, if you let it......fortunately, I'm safe for now  [unsure]

 

[afish]

Having a trimmer will definitely speed up my process, especially when I have the OF1010 already set for something else.

Best!

This is exactly how/why people who deal with these things in a production environment own 3, 4, 5, or more trim routers, many cordless, each set up specifically for their given task.

*cough* *cough* [member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] ...  [wink]

I hate swapping router bits plus the extra time getting the exact height dialed in, straight edge etc.  I have 6 cordless dewalt trimmers and as soon as they go on sale again I will pick up a few more. Wise man says always own one more router than bits.

If it wasnt for the OP working in his finished apartment then I would say pass on the MFK and get some cordless units and a little lipper.  If Festool is your only battery platform you might as well bite the bullet and get into another battery platform sooner rather than later.  Festool just doesnt have the cordless platform of the others and the cordless technology is so good now it cant be beat.

There is no perfect platform and they all have holes but Festool is way behind the curve on cordless offerings and will never compete on variety of tools.  Yellow or blue doesnt much matter to me, both are good but red is dead to me. I have had more issues with Makita batteries than Dewalt though. 

 

[afish]

I was typing when CRG posted but yep he beat me to it.  Its more about breaking down a router that is set up not just swapping bits.  But I would say 2 trimmers is the min. even for a hobby.  You can get the cordless Makitas for 129 which is a steal.  Im a little jealous since the Dewalts are 199 so I dont buy them unless they are doing the free battery promo. 

 

[woodbutcherbower]

I would say 2 trimmers is the min. even for a hobby.

What?  [eek]

This is a guy making stuff in his apartment for heaven’s sake. I’ve done this for a living for 35 years now, and the only duplicate tool I have is a 2nd Hilti combihammer because it’s the #1 most used tool I have, and I’d be screwed if it failed halfway through a job. Multiple routers etc. are fine in a fast-moving production environment where time spent constantly changing cutters is time wasted - multiple tools set up for different tasks are a huge productivity gain.

But an apartment woodworker? Unless all the hobbyists on here are retired Texas oil zillionaires?

 

[Packard]

If you have an OF1010 - this will do the same job as an mk700
https://www.festoolproducts.com/festool-486058-edging-plate-of-1010-and-of-1400.html

I clicked the link for the edging plate and so far I have received four emails from Festool asking variations of:  Did you forget something? or Still interested?  Etc.

It seemed a bit aggressive for a quick peak at the video.  And how did Festool end up with my personal email address?  Shared data?

 

[squall_line]

If you have an OF1010 - this will do the same job as an mk700
https://www.festoolproducts.com/festool-486058-edging-plate-of-1010-and-of-1400.html

I clicked the link for the edging plate and so far I have received four emails from Festool asking variations of:  Did you forget something? or Still interested?  Etc.

It seemed a bit aggressive for a quick peak at the video.  And how did Festool end up with my personal email address?  Shared data?

Festoolproducts-dot-com isn't Festool, it's ToolNut.

My "favorites" are the variation of "this is our favorite tool in our lineup" and it just-so-happens to be the one you were looking at.  It gets old, quick.

So if you have an account with Toolnut, they likely have it linked to your IP address and all of the other myriad tracking cookies on your computer.  Even if you don't, you are probably still tracked, especially if they share an eCommerce processor.

Woodcraft, Rockler, Beaver... just about everyone does it, unfortunately.  They usually stop after a day or so.  It definitely keeps me away from using any of their sites for research until or unless I actually want to buy something.

 

[afish]

I would say 2 trimmers is the min. even for a hobby.

What?  [eek]

This is a guy making stuff in his apartment for heaven’s sake. I’ve done this for a living for 35 years now, and the only duplicate tool I have is a 2nd Hilti combihammer because it’s the #1 most used tool I have, and I’d be screwed if it failed halfway through a job. Multiple routers etc. are fine in a fast-moving production environment where time spent constantly changing cutters is time wasted - multiple tools set up for different tasks are a huge productivity gain.

But an apartment woodworker? Unless all the hobbyists on here are retired Texas oil zillionaires?

I didnt say 2 MFK's... [smile]

You can buy cheap corded trimmers for 50-60 bucks so I hardly think that requires a zillionaires bank account.  It really just comes down to how much you value your time.  Everyone is different and everyone has different budget.  Some people have more money than time and vise versa. Some value convenience more than others.  Not everyone is working out of their apartment... There's a difference between a "hobby" wood worker who uses his/her trim router 3 or 4 times a year and someone making a living.  The OP did mention "customer" so that alone tells me he/she doesnt fall within the 3-4 times per year and does this more than occasionally or more than a hobby even if they work out of their apartment. 

A hammer/combi drill is totally different tool and basically requires no setup just pop a bit in and go and its designed more for rough work so its no big deal if a mistake happens.  Go ahead swap a bit and forget to adjust your trimmer/straight edge etc. and touch it up to a finished piece you just spent hours or days making and that 60 bucks for a second trimmer will seem the the smartest money you ever spent.  Trimmers can break too so the concept of a back up for breakage applies, just not so much for hobbyist. I assume that most if on this site have a reasonable budget for tools and aren't afraid to spend money on tools if needed, but my advise like all advise wont work for everyone.

 

[afish]

The Conturo and Cantek handheld units can both do straight or curved edges, but they have to be square to the face, and that's just applying it.

Just FYI the conturo can apply edge banding to 45 or anything in between with the bench mount. Of course this is in addition to the 3k for the conturo and its not a cheap add on at around $500 but it is an option.  I will admit to not using it ton an angle yet so I cant attest to the performance when tilted but I also dont see an issue either.  I did by the bench mount for it for doing narrow parts easier. 

Im not sure if CRG meant it cant do radius in combination with angles or meant angles period.  However I dont think anything can do both since the edge banding would have to shrink and stretch too much to lay in a curve on an angle.  so, im assuming he meant just angles. 

 

[Packard]

When I was a wedding photographer, I had two Hasselblad cameras with lenses and two flashes.  I could not afford to have failed camera during a wedding.  I could not have them make a "do-over". 

I had roughly  $3,000.00 in redundant equipment which did not save me any time or effort.  It was insurance.  (In today's dollars, $7,600.00, so not an insignificant amount of money).

So I see two main reasons for having redundant equipment.  The first is improved efficiency.  The second is insurance. 

The second may not be important to a hobby photographer or a hobby woodworker, but it might be very important to someone who made his living at it.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The Conturo and Cantek handheld units can both do straight or curved edges, but they have to be square to the face, and that's just applying it.

Just FYI the conturo can apply edge banding to 45 or anything in between with the bench mount. Of course this is in addition to the 3k for the conturo and its not a cheap add on at around $500 but it is an option.  I will admit to not using it ton an angle yet so I cant attest to the performance when tilted but I also dont see an issue either.  I did by the bench mount for it for doing narrow parts easier. 

Im not sure if CRG meant it cant do radius in combination with angles or meant angles period.  However I dont think anything can do both since the edge banding would have to shrink and stretch too much to lay in a curve on an angle.  so, im assuming he meant just angles.

I was totally unaware that the Conturo could apply edgebanding  at an angle to the face, but yeah trying to do an angle and radius at once would be quite a thing.
I have done it with sheet laminate, but it's a huge waste of material, noy gonna happen with strip or tape type edging.

....and yes I did see that comment about 2 MFKs.  [big grin]

Some of what I have is about redundancy or at least back-up ability. I bought the extra parts to use the OF1010 on its side, for just that reason. That was before I got the deal on the that second MFK, but I have in fact used it that way.

As said, if a guy is doing this for money/sales, the location he is using is not a huge factor, until he runs out of space. That would probably be a good thing though.

 

[MaurizioVacca]

I would say 2 trimmers is the min. even for a hobby.

What?  [eek]

This is a guy making stuff in his apartment for heaven’s sake. I’ve done this for a living for 35 years now, and the only duplicate tool I have is a 2nd Hilti combihammer because it’s the #1 most used tool I have, and I’d be screwed if it failed halfway through a job. Multiple routers etc. are fine in a fast-moving production environment where time spent constantly changing cutters is time wasted - multiple tools set up for different tasks are a huge productivity gain.

But an apartment woodworker? Unless all the hobbyists on here are retired Texas oil zillionaires?

Yes I don't do woodworking for a living, I'm a software developer for that matter. I started woodworking 3 years ago, when I purchased my home and started doing some floating shelves and windows renovation. Since then, I did mostly small furniture for myself, but I also had the opportunity to have some friends (or even friends of friends) asking me to do custom jobs for them.
I don't know if you can call me a semi-pro, an advanced hobbyist or whatever, nor I care about it. Whatever I am, it doesn't change the fact that I like to do stuff efficiently, as much as I can.

If I was on any kind of budget constraint I would've stated that, as I said what I'm looking for. And yes, I'm still trying to figure out if I want to change my career path in the foreseeable future.

Best!

 

[Crazyraceguy]

From your original post, I assumed that you were not particularly price sensitive. Anyone who is trying to "just get it done" in the most economical way doesn't already have an OF1010 and ask about an MFK700, in the first place.
So, yes. The MFK700 is a specialty machine, but that is what you really need for this application. Angled edges are not in the range of a huge percentage of what most guys do.
Sure, the OF1010 can be adapted to do it, but then you lose the ability to do other, more normal routing operations, while it is in that mode.
The OF1010 and MFK700 is a very versatile combination, the only potential shortcoming is the ability to run large bits. But again, that's not what the original question was about.

 

[afish]

since we are on the subject of angled door and drawer edges.  Have you seen or tried the aluminum profile handles like these instead of edge banding? 

For those who are edge banding angled door and drawer fronts Im assuming you are pre scoring the edge banding so it will fold over the angle.  Or are you doing it in a two step/piece process?  For myself the aluminum profile seems like the better option over PVC Typically you end up with one very narrow edge where the angle breaks opposed to it coming to a sharp point. That narrow edge seems problematic in the long run with the edge banding possibly coming off easy since there isn't a lot of glue surface and if there is any tension from underscoring the banding seems like it could want to pop up. Those issues and the fact it looks like a good dirt catcher in a kitchen makes me shy away from doing that style.  I could see it being used more for furniture type pieces where there is less chance of dirt/crumbs falling into the gaps. 

Im still not sure if the MFK horizontal even with the PM MOD is the best option on angled edges.  I have never tried to see how far back and down the bearing will adjust.  However even if the bearing has enough adjustment, it would also seem like you would need to have two different setups one for the back side of door/drawer and one for the front side. unless you used a track to ride the base along so you cant dive the collet into the edge.  I'm thinking the MFK EQ/B plus is the base you want in combo with a surfacing type bit so it works like a lipping trimmer/planer. The 1010 will work too you just need to add a extra piece to half the bottom of the base.  Just dont try to get it perfect and leave yourself .010" extra or so edge banding to sand in by hand instead of risking damage to the face veneer.  As mentioned the parts to convert the "EQ set" vertical base into the EQ/B vertical base isnt expensive at all and its probably more economical to by the set and add the parts to make a EQ/B base from the set IF you plan on wanting the horizontal base for doing wood banding on 90° edges. You shouldnt need the bearing brake assembly if you are setting it up in lipping mode anyways.  When I first started looking at the MFK the 2 different version was not clear and a tad confusing at first.  The EQ/B is made for using the 1,2,3mm insert bits with Festools "1 step" process or as a lipping trimmer. Even though Im not real familiar with Mafells trimmer Im assuming its similar to the MFK EQ/b

Yes I just went and looked at the Mafell kf1000 a little closer it works on the same concept as the EQ/B I will say based on my quick look the mafell bearing break looks to be a little suspect to me and more flimsy than the EQ/B.  Im not bashing Mafell Ilike their stuff but the MFK seems way better to me and the MAfell has no Horz. base option.  So its kind of a no brainer to me. MFK wins over the Mafell.

 

[MaurizioVacca]

since we are on the subject of angled door and drawer edges.  Have you seen or tried the aluminum profile handles like these instead of edge banding? 

For those who are edge banding angled door and drawer fronts Im assuming you are pre scoring the edge banding so it will fold over the angle.  Or are you doing it in a two step/piece process?  For myself the aluminum profile seems like the better option over PVC Typically you end up with one very narrow edge where the angle breaks opposed to it coming to a sharp point. That narrow edge seems problematic in the long run with the edge banding possibly coming off easy since there isn't a lot of glue surface and if there is any tension from underscoring the banding seems like it could want to pop up. Those issues and the fact it looks like a good dirt catcher in a kitchen makes me shy away from doing that style.  I could see it being used more for furniture type pieces where there is less chance of dirt/crumbs falling into the gaps.

I'm actually thinking about using these kind of handles for the drawers of a TV unit I will do within the next months: it will either be these or routed finger pulls, I still have to decide which of the sketches I made I like the most.

About edge banding at an angle: in my case the angled edges are the cabinet ones. It's a design choice made since I opted for inset doors and with 90 degree edges it was just too flat. So I decided to use miter joints and 45 degrees bevels to improve the overall look. And yes, I'm prescoring on the back of the edge banding so it folds over. They were pretty sharp, but a light hand sanding solved the problem in this specific instance.

Best!

 

[MaineShop]

In terms of Trim Routers. I have the MFK and love it. I also have the Bosch colt, an older one, and the makita somewhere, and the cordless 20v dewalt. I do use the MFK a bunch and it is smooth as butter. I love the many different options it gives me. However for quick work in the shop lots of times I grab the Bosch though it makes a huge mess throwing chip everywhere, compared to the mfk, but it has a good open sight so I can see the bit, the newer version has an led light even. I do grab the dewalt cordless a lot especially on site since it is cordless. I also have the plunge base for the bosch but almost never use it as I have plenty of other routers I would us for plunging. I do have the offset base for the bosch which I used for a job once and was kinda handy. Honestly the makita is somewhere in the tool storage room and I have never really liked it. I bought it for a job where I needed one and didn't have one with me and that is what the local lumber yard had. Worked fine just fit my hand weird, the mfk is a little awkward to grab too for me but it can do an awful lot. I think makita has updated the body style since the one I bought, it was 7 or 8 years ago at least.

In your case if you are working in a space where chips cannot easily be swept up I would go with the mfk for dust collection. If you can sweep them up later, I have been very happy with the bosch and have put miles on it.

Trim routers are great, treat yourself.