HKC 55 EB review

[Arvid]

The cordless HKC 55 is perfect for framing, decking, flooring, roofing or other work when you don't want to worry about cords or plugs. It's the right tool when you need more time and less hassle.  from Facebook today.

How is it that a "perfect" saw cannot make the cuts described ad nauseum in above comments? I would post a comment on Facebook but it would likely baffle most of my friends.

That facebook post and marketing is my rub.  That and the gentleman in the video from festool connect demonstrating the saw was careful not to display it could not cut a 2x4 at 45 bevel while on the track. He very sneakingly said " let's just pick a bevel" and demonstrated a bevel cut not mentioning 30 degrees was as far as you could go. Even though he knew very well not to go beyond 30 degrees. So he did not just pick any bevel he picked that bevel deliberately

Not a fair demonstration and rather deceitful if you ask me. 

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

The cordless HKC 55 is perfect for framing, decking, flooring, roofing or other work when you don't want to worry about cords or plugs. It's the right tool when you need more time and less hassle.  from Facebook today.

How is it that a "perfect" saw cannot make the cuts described ad nauseum in above comments? I would post a comment on Facebook but it would likely baffle most of my friends.

That facebook post and marketing is my rub.  That and the gentleman in the video from festool connect demonstrating the saw was careful not to display it could not cut a 2x4 at 45 bevel while on the track. He very sneakingly said " let's just pick a bevel" and demonstrated a bevel cut not mentioning 30 degrees was as far as you could go. Even though he knew very well not to go beyond 30 degrees. So he did not just pick any bevel he picked that bevel deliberately

Not a fair demonstration and rather deceitful if you ask me.

I glad I'm not the only person that feels this way.  It was a major fail  having a "construction" saw that cannot cut a 45 bevel in a 2x4. 

 

[Jason Kehl]

Yes; a major fail indeed with the limited cut depth. I'd also be concerned about the 1200w motor when using the saw for rips in framing lumber. I'm not a Festool hater, I have a pile of their tools and generally find them to be very good, but I'm not so sure about this one. I'm looking at the Mafell KSS60; it is bigger, heavier and more expensive, but it also looks like it would be a much more capable saw for framing.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I glad I'm not the only person that feels this way.  It was a major fail  having a "construction" saw that cannot cut a 45 bevel in a 2x4.

I feel the 45 degree bevel issue is not going to be a problem for many users.  All the same, this is a serious blunder by Festool.  I really think they should be looking for a solution ASAP.  Looking at the saw it seems like the easiest solution for Festool is enlarge the blade guard slightly and offer a 165mm blade as an option. Festool, I do hope you are listening. 

 

[erock]

If I'm spending over $400 on a saw.....the S.O.B better cut all the way through a 2x4 on a 45 no matter the moister content or if the dang board  has a cup or crown........ 

If I have a $30 Skil saw that can cut through a 2x4 at a 45* with a cheap speed square,  what would make me want to buy the HKC ?? 

Sure, I'm a hobbyist and I don't make a lot of cuts through a 2x lumber  on a 45*.    But if the saw has a 45* marking.....I expect the saw to make the cuts.  I don't expect to FINISH the cut with my fingers or clean it up with a file or a hand plane.    Defeats the purpose of making the dang cut to begin with.

I could go on about this saw......but I'll keep my comments to myself.

Eric

 

[Arvid]

Yes; a major fail indeed with the limited cut depth. I'd also be concerned about the 1200w motor when using the saw for rips in framing lumber. I'm not a Festool hater, I have a pile of their tools and generally find them to be very good, but I'm not so sure about this one. I'm looking at the Mafell KSS60; it is bigger, heavier and more expensive, but it also looks like it would be a much more capable saw for framing.

I agree this should be marketed as a light duty carpentry saw. Not demonstrated cutting did mention all framing lumber. It's misleading

 

[Brice Burrell]

Yes; a major fail indeed with the limited cut depth. I'd also be concerned about the 1200w motor when using the saw for rips in framing lumber. I'm not a Festool hater, I have a pile of their tools and generally find them to be very good, but I'm not so sure about this one. I'm looking at the Mafell KSS60; it is bigger, heavier and more expensive, but it also looks like it would be a much more capable saw for framing.

I agree this should be marketed as a light duty carpentry saw. Not demonstrated cutting did mention all framing lumber. It's misleading

I have the HKC, it is more of lighter duty saw, like most other cordless saws.  On the plus side I would say it is a pretty capable saw for only being an 18V tool.  By cordless saw standards I would the HKC is a more of a medium duty saw.

I can't comment much from first hand experience on the corded HK saw, although I do have the KSS400.  Still, I'd like to bring up a few points.  The HK/HKC, and the other cross cuts saws are able to cut much more efficiently because they are on a rail.  Running a circular saw freehand there is, relatively speaking, a lot more binding of the blade, and you'll need more power to over come that binding.  With my KSS400 (with 1100 watt motor), with angled or beveled cuts on 2x10 or 2x12 material you hear the saw working harder.  However, I've never felt like I was overworking the saw.  Also, your typical sidewinder will moan while beveling a 2x12.  One last point that we need to keep in mind, Festool has the HK85 for heavy duty cutting, so they have accounted for that market (in Europe at least).

I guess my opinion is the 160mm blade crosscut saws aren't light duty from my experience, and probably not heavy duty either.  They fall in the middle, right where most people's needs are.           

 

[Arvid]

Yes; a major fail indeed with the limited cut depth. I'd also be concerned about the 1200w motor when using the saw for rips in framing lumber. I'm not a Festool hater, I have a pile of their tools and generally find them to be very good, but I'm not so sure about this one. I'm looking at the Mafell KSS60; it is bigger, heavier and more expensive, but it also looks like it would be a much more capable saw for framing.

I agree this should be marketed as a light duty carpentry saw. Not demonstrated cutting did mention all framing lumber. It's misleading

I have the HKC, it is more of lighter duty saw, like most other cordless saws.  On the plus side I would say it is a pretty capable saw for only being an 18V tool.  By cordless saw standards I would the HKC is a more of a medium duty saw.

I can't comment much from first hand experience on the corded HK saw, although I do have the KSS400.  Still, I'd like to bring up a few points.  The HK/HKC, and the other cross cuts saws are able to cut much more efficiently because they are on a rail.  Running a circular saw freehand there is, relatively speaking, a lot more binding of the blade, and you'll need more power to over come that binding.  With my KSS400 (with 1100 watt motor), with angled or beveled cuts on 2x10 or 2x12 material you hear the saw working harder.  However, I've never felt like I was overworking the saw.  Also, your typical sidewinder will moan while beveling a 2x12.  One last point that we need to keep in mind, Festool has the HK85 for heavy duty cutting, so they have accounted for that market (in Europe at least).

I guess my opinion is the 160mm blade crosscut saws aren't light duty from my experience, and probably not heavy duty either.  They fall in the middle, right where most people's needs are.         

The hk85 does seem like a fine saw but is overkill for most jobs with a blade that is 230mm.
To use that here is the states for 2x lumber would be a waste. They need an hk that is closer to mafell a kss60 if they are going to market it as a carpentry saw and not a glorified trim saw/ siding saw

 

[rst]

I used my HKC for building a deck and stairs for my daughter.  All the wood was wet pressure treated.  At no time did the saw bog down, including cutting the 2x12 for the steps and joists.  I have not used it to rip treated yet, my 12 tooth blade should arrive today.  Anyone want a Milwaukee 18v wood saw?  Keeping the steel cutting one however.

 

[Lbob131]

Yes; a major fail indeed with the limited cut depth. I'd also be concerned about the 1200w motor when using the saw for rips in framing lumber. I'm not a Festool hater, I have a pile of their tools and generally find them to be very good, but I'm not so sure about this one. I'm looking at the Mafell KSS60; it is bigger, heavier and more expensive, but it also looks like it would be a much more capable saw for framing.

I agree this should be marketed as a light duty carpentry saw. Not demonstrated cutting did mention all framing lumber. It's misleading

I have the HKC, it is more of lighter duty saw, like most other cordless saws.  On the plus side I would say it is a pretty capable saw for only being an 18V tool.  By cordless saw standards I would the HKC is a more of a medium duty saw.

I can't comment much from first hand experience on the corded HK saw, although I do have the KSS400.  Still, I'd like to bring up a few points.  The HK/HKC, and the other cross cuts saws are able to cut much more efficiently because they are on a rail.  Running a circular saw freehand there is, relatively speaking, a lot more binding of the blade, and you'll need more power to over come that binding.  With my KSS400 (with 1100 watt motor), with angled or beveled cuts on 2x10 or 2x12 material you hear the saw working harder.  However, I've never felt like I was overworking the saw.  Also, your typical sidewinder will moan while beveling a 2x12.  One last point that we need to keep in mind, Festool has the HK85 for heavy duty cutting, so they have accounted for that market (in Europe at least).

I guess my opinion is the 160mm blade crosscut saws aren't light duty from my experience, and probably not heavy duty either.  They fall in the middle, right where most people's needs are.         

The hk85 does seem like a fine saw but is overkill for most jobs with a blade that is 230mm.
To use that here is the states for 2x lumber would be a waste. They need an hk that is closer to mafell a kss60 if they are going to market it as a carpentry saw and not a glorified trim saw/ siding saw

You could stack two on top  of each other  which in theory  would give you a 4x.
As the 2x lumber  in the states is only 1 1/2"  thick, two stacked  together makes 3",  therefore  the hkc85 will  chop
the two in one go  with ease.

My big Makita 5103R  has a 100mm depth of cut capability  and was cutting  several t&g boards  together  in one go the other day.

 

[Jason Kehl]

In regards to my thought that the 1200w motor is on the light side is based on my use of the TS55 (on a Festool track) to trim the ends of pressure treated decking after its fastened in place. I used to use the TS55 for that but it had a difficult time with it, it would heart up and shut down. It's good that it shut down instead of destroying itself, and I realize that the TS55 was not intended for framing lumber, but the fact that the HK has the same 1200w motor discourages me from buying the HK. I continue to use the TS55 for sheet goods and it works just fine.

I ended up with the Mafell KSS400 and the KSS80. The 400 is a nice saw and very similar to the HK, I do wish for a bit more power and cutting depth. The KSS80 is a fantastic saw, but heavier and bulkier than necessary for typical 2x framing requirements. The KSS60 sounds like the perfect do almost everything saw.

The point in sharing all of this is to caution potential purchasers that the HK may be a little disappointing as a framing saw, depending on your needs.

j

 

[AJCruise]

Jason,
I have to agree with you on this.
Mafell have the extra model (60) to cover most of the bases for framing, not to heavy for frequent
use, but powerful enough to handle 2X stock.
(2X stock in Ireland/UK is 44mm - 1 3/4" so the HK55 or KSS400 won't cut it at 45 degrees)

I am trying to go cordless as much as possible, so an HK70 with 2 batteries, like the TSC55R, would be a great addition to the line.

I will get the HKC55 to do most of the 1st fix work, TSC55R to replace my TS55 (to be fitted into CMS)
A Kapex will handle the larger stock for joists and rafters, I always cut them on the ground level first.

Alan

 

[Arvid]

kss60cc being delivered tomorrow. I will let you all know what i think of it. I will review it in the review other tools section.

 

[Brice Burrell]

kss60cc being delivered tomorrow. I will let you all know what i think of it. I will review it in the review other tools section.

I look forward to your review.

 

[Lbob131]

I went on to axminster  to order  the Festool HK 85  with the FSK rail but they  are out of stock. I'd like  the machine  in 110v.
They must be selling like hot cakes.

 

[Kylec57]

The 85 doesn't come in 110v I believe. I have the hkc55 and the hk55 110v. The hkc just struggles so much it annoyed me into buying the 110v and I love the hk55 it's just so much better! A sharp blade really helps. As soon as the blade gets dull you really need to change it

 

[leakyroof]

kss60cc being delivered tomorrow. I will let you all know what i think of it. I will review it in the review other tools section.

I look forward to your review.

  I agree, looks like an interesting saw, Mafell also offers clamps to work with the rail/your workpiece.    [tongue]

 

[Lbob131]

OK. 240v will be fine. I think the 240v machines  have more power  anyway.

An  on site  rcd  should leave it safe. Though mostly the saw will  be used in  the workshop  where we make  big trusses.

There was a lad the other day using a hitachi router  with a frayed lead  and he took the  full blast of the 240v  when he grabbed it.

 

[Lbob131]

Just took delivery of the HK 85 EB  and FSK 420  today. [smile]
Plus 2 spare blades.

Will be putting it through  its paces  tomorrow    cutting  large  11" x 3"  to make trusses.
First impressions  certainly  doesn't disappoint  after cutting  some pine.

Very smooth  on the rail  and accurate. Tested a  45  degree cut  with  a  digital  angle  degree finder  and it  was 100%  accurate at 45 degrees.
Its like having  a SCMS at your finger tips.  Very impressive  piece of engineering.  A  game changer in fact!

 

[Xoncention]

OK. 240v will be fine. I think the 240v machines  have more power  anyway.

An  on site  rcd  should leave it safe. Though mostly the saw will  be used in  the workshop  where we make  big trusses.

There was a lad the other day using a hitachi router  with a frayed lead  and he took the  full blast of the 240v  when he grabbed it.

It is a requirement in Australia to have all corded tools used on construction sites to be checked quarterly and tagged for electrical safety.  It is also a requirement that if at any time there is any damaged cable, that tool be removed from site and repaired and re-tagged.  We also have to connect all power tools through an RCD just in case someone cuts a cord.  If you have quite a few tools (guilty as charged) it can be an expensive process to keep your tools compliant.  That being said, there is no cost that is not worth paying if at the end of the day everyone leaves site alive.  I have a license to test and tag tools, so other than time and labels, there is little cost to me.