Hkc55

[Jerry lipp]

I just bought this saw and rails and I’ve noticed that the rails will not retract unless you sit there and shake it or manually push it back. Is this the nature of the beast? Seems like a good way to get cut. Also I’ve noticed that the cut is almost 1/8” out of square on a 7” cut. I was able to correct this by adding more tension on the rail but in doing that the rails won’t slide at all. Tried wax, silicone to no avail, anybody experience these issues? Is there a fix? As it is now, I would be subject to major fines if I brought this saw out to a job site from US dept of labor and industries

 

[peter halle]

Welcome to the forum.  Sorry to read of your situation.  If the saw is new I would arrange for it to be exchanged thru your dealer.

Peter

 

[demographic]

Mines been very good on the accuracy of cut and although it does occasionally get a bit sticky on the rail it cleans up and with a little dry lubrication its good for another couple of months.

 

[Stephen B]

Your saw may need re adjustment to the rail - refer manual. Also try some sliding door silicon spray. Must be for sliding doors as these products generally do not attract dust.

Of my two rails, the shorter 420 needed the most 'tuning'.

Your rail might also be bent. If so follow the advice of returning to dealer.

 

[Cheese]

Also try some sliding door silicon spray. Must be for sliding doors as these products generally do not attract dust.

Hey [member=19746]Untidy Shop[/member] what's the name of that spray you're using and who manufactures it?

My HKC works fine with the FSK 420 rail and it's accurate at 90º and 45º. I'd return it to your dealer and work through the issues. It's definitely a saw worth keeping. Right now I'm cutting cement board with it on a FS guide rail. [big grin]

 

[Brice Burrell]

First, welcome to the FOG.

My saw get hung up on the rail after a cut.  I don't think that to be a big deal.  When you finish the cut you naturally want to bring the saw back towards your body as you lift the saw off the work piece.  As the saw is moving back I bump the rail with my hip and that promptly, and safely resets the saw back in starting position on the rail.

Something to check if you have a cut that is off is to check that the rail is set to perfectly in the 90 degree detent.  I've found its possible to inadvertently have the angle adjuster out of the detent as you tighten it down.  I now double check I'm actually in the detent anytime I reset back to 90 degrees. 

Best of luck getting this sorted out quickly.     

 

[Stephen B]

[attachimg=1]

Hi [member=44099]Cheese[/member] 

Do not know if this brand is available in NA but similar products should be available.

 

[Cheese]

Hi [member=44099]Cheese[/member] 

Do not know if this brand is available in NA but similar products should be available.[/font][/size]

Thanks for the info Untidy...looks like the current, readily available equivalent, is made by DuPont. It's also silicone free. I wonder how this stuff compares to Dyna Glide Plus other than containing PTFE?
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Non-Stick-Dry-Film-Lubricant/dp/B018FTA5WA

 

[RustE]

Have you considered Bostik GlideCote?  Unfortunately it’s not cheap.

A few years back I asked Festool about what could be applied to the guide rails and was basically told ‘it needs nothing’.  I’m not sure if Festool has changed their opinion since.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I wouldn't bother with any lubricant.  A lubricant will reduce the friction for the metal to metal, but that's not the real issue here.  Saw dust gets in the rib/channels of the rail/saw and binds.  A lubricant isn't going to do much to help, in some case it will only make things worse. 

 

[live4ever]

I use the Dupont stuff all over my shop.  Definitely improved the sluggish snap-back of my HKC.