Hole Saws

[Mike Goetzke]

Few years back I threw out my HF hole saw set when there was a great deal on a Milwaukee Hole Dozer set. For some reason I seem not to be able to use this set without getting severe catches. I don't remember getting this with the cheap HF set. Is there a trick to using them? Are the Hole Dozer's to aggressive?

While writing this I'm wondering if it could be the drill too. I have a Makita hammer drill driver with lots of torque many years ago maybe I used a corded drill?

 

[Packard]

The “trick” I use, is to first make a very shallow cut. Then using a 1/4” to 3/8” drill bit, I drill a hole just inside the sawn groove that intersects the groove. This allows any saw dust accumulating in the groove to escape allowing a faster and much cooler cut.

But the hole saw, especially in larger diameters, must be presented to the stock perfectly perpendicular or it will bite the stock and twist the drill in your hand. A drill press is best. Some of the drill guides will accommodate the smaller sized hole saws. Other than that, for me it is start-stop-start-stop, etc. Checking every second or two to be sure the drill is perpendicular to the stock.

Also, light pressure and slow feed rates help some.

 

[Woody Knotsensplintah]

If you don't mind committing an act of indecency, you can start a groove with less grabbing by first running the drill in reverse until a guide groove is established.

If I were drilling a moderate to large diameter hole to achieve a finished look, I would use a router and a template.

When using a large-diameter hole saw to create a port or hole for a light fixture, I typically begin with a rocking motion and then set the drill perpendicular once a groove guide is established.

 

[Packard]

And if you don’t mind all the chips, then a forstner bit is easier to use.

I buy Roman brand carbide bits, and for wood, they are excellent and I have yet to dull any of the. They are sold on Amazon. The last bit I bought was 2-1/4” and cost about $35.00.

I also have Freud’s Diablo quick change mandrel. Once you have used it, nothing else measures up. The mandrel includes two adapters for use with any holesaw.

 

[semenza]

I tried the Milwaukee Hole Dozers and though they were good I did find them very aggressive. I ended up going with Lenox T3. Ended up getting all of them (was tired of not having this or that size). I found them to be aggressive enough to still well and fast but no where near as much grabbing as the Hole Dozers. I also find the Lenox to make cleaner, smoother cuts.

Biggest technique ....... use a drill with a side handle, run at slow to medium speed, and feed slowly. I've done up to 3 3/4" diameter with the Festool PDC through two layers of 3/4" plywood. For anything larger I move to a large Milwaukee D-handle (with side handle) drill.

Seth

 

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks for all the help - my holes were 4" diameter in plywood. I ended up using the hole saw as a guide line for my jig saw. Probably took less time too.

 

[Woody Knotsensplintah]

The more I think about it, the less I would want to use a hammer drill with a hole saw.

It sounds like an effective way to stick the saw teeth deep into the wood so that the drill cannot dislodge them in a graceful manner.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I routinely do 3-4" holes in 40-50mm thick MDF and I've found the TCT holesaws the best for this. Start off slow to ensure it goes in straight without any wobble, and then gun it with the knowledge you'll have a nice clean straight hole!

I sold off all my HSS holesaws after getting TCT sets as the HSS always seemed to bind if you looked at them sideways.

 

[Steve1]

Then using a 1/4” to 3/8” drill bit, I drill a hole just inside the sawn groove that intersects the groove. This allows any saw dust accumulating in the groove to escape allowing a faster and much cooler cut.

That sounds like a good idea. I will try to remember that.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

The more I think about it, the less I would want to use a hammer drill with a hole saw.

It sounds like an effective way to stick the saw teeth deep into the wood so that the drill cannot dislodge them in a graceful manner.

Sorry - to be clear I used it in drill mode on low speed.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

I routinely do 3-4" holes in 40-50mm thick MDF and I've found the TCT holesaws the best for this. Start off slow to ensure it goes in straight without any wobble, and then gun it with the knowledge you'll have a nice clean straight hole!

I sold off all my HSS holesaws after getting TCT sets as the HSS always seemed to bind if you looked at them sideways.

Maybe the plywood causes issues? Maybe MDF would cut better with less catches.

 

[semenza]

The more I think about it, the less I would want to use a hammer drill with a hole saw.

It sounds like an effective way to stick the saw teeth deep into the wood so that the drill cannot dislodge them in a graceful manner.

This is probably in response to my use of the PDC?

Oh, no, no, no, not in hammer mode. That would be a terrible usage. I was just indicating the size / handling / power of the drill I use.

Seth