Hole Saws

[Mike Goetzke]

Few years back I threw out my HF hole saw set when there was a great deal on a Milwaukee Hole Dozer set. For some reason I seem not to be able to use this set without getting severe catches. I don't remember getting this with the cheap HF set. Is there a trick to using them? Are the Hole Dozer's to aggressive?

While writing this I'm wondering if it could be the drill too. I have a Makita hammer drill driver with lots of torque many years ago maybe I used a corded drill?

 

[Packard]

The “trick” I use, is to first make a very shallow cut. Then using a 1/4” to 3/8” drill bit, I drill a hole just inside the sawn groove that intersects the groove. This allows any saw dust accumulating in the groove to escape allowing a faster and much cooler cut.

But the hole saw, especially in larger diameters, must be presented to the stock perfectly perpendicular or it will bite the stock and twist the drill in your hand. A drill press is best. Some of the drill guides will accommodate the smaller sized hole saws. Other than that, for me it is start-stop-start-stop, etc. Checking every second or two to be sure the drill is perpendicular to the stock.

Also, light pressure and slow feed rates help some.

 

[Woody Knotsensplintah]

If you don't mind committing an act of indecency, you can start a groove with less grabbing by first running the drill in reverse until a guide groove is established.

If I were drilling a moderate to large diameter hole to achieve a finished look, I would use a router and a template.

When using a large-diameter hole saw to create a port or hole for a light fixture, I typically begin with a rocking motion and then set the drill perpendicular once a groove guide is established.

 

[Packard]

And if you don’t mind all the chips, then a forstner bit is easier to use.

I buy Roman brand carbide bits, and for wood, they are excellent and I have yet to dull any of the. They are sold on Amazon. The last bit I bought was 2-1/4” and cost about $35.00.

I also have Freud’s Diablo quick change mandrel. Once you have used it, nothing else measures up. The mandrel includes two adapters for use with any holesaw.

 

[semenza]

I tried the Milwaukee Hole Dozers and though they were good I did find them very aggressive. I ended up going with Lenox T3. Ended up getting all of them (was tired of not having this or that size). I found them to be aggressive enough to still well and fast but no where near as much grabbing as the Hole Dozers. I also find the Lenox to make cleaner, smoother cuts.

Biggest technique ....... use a drill with a side handle, run at slow to medium speed, and feed slowly. I've done up to 3 3/4" diameter with the Festool PDC through two layers of 3/4" plywood. For anything larger I move to a large Milwaukee D-handle (with side handle) drill.

Seth

 

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks for all the help - my holes were 4" diameter in plywood. I ended up using the hole saw as a guide line for my jig saw. Probably took less time too.

 

[Woody Knotsensplintah]

The more I think about it, the less I would want to use a hammer drill with a hole saw.

It sounds like an effective way to stick the saw teeth deep into the wood so that the drill cannot dislodge them in a graceful manner.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I routinely do 3-4" holes in 40-50mm thick MDF and I've found the TCT holesaws the best for this. Start off slow to ensure it goes in straight without any wobble, and then gun it with the knowledge you'll have a nice clean straight hole!

I sold off all my HSS holesaws after getting TCT sets as the HSS always seemed to bind if you looked at them sideways.

 

[Steve1]

Then using a 1/4” to 3/8” drill bit, I drill a hole just inside the sawn groove that intersects the groove. This allows any saw dust accumulating in the groove to escape allowing a faster and much cooler cut.

That sounds like a good idea. I will try to remember that.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

The more I think about it, the less I would want to use a hammer drill with a hole saw.

It sounds like an effective way to stick the saw teeth deep into the wood so that the drill cannot dislodge them in a graceful manner.

Sorry - to be clear I used it in drill mode on low speed.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

I routinely do 3-4" holes in 40-50mm thick MDF and I've found the TCT holesaws the best for this. Start off slow to ensure it goes in straight without any wobble, and then gun it with the knowledge you'll have a nice clean straight hole!

I sold off all my HSS holesaws after getting TCT sets as the HSS always seemed to bind if you looked at them sideways.

Maybe the plywood causes issues? Maybe MDF would cut better with less catches.

 

[semenza]

The more I think about it, the less I would want to use a hammer drill with a hole saw.

It sounds like an effective way to stick the saw teeth deep into the wood so that the drill cannot dislodge them in a graceful manner.

This is probably in response to my use of the PDC?

Oh, no, no, no, not in hammer mode. That would be a terrible usage. I was just indicating the size / handling / power of the drill I use.

Seth

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I'm pretty sure that the Hole Dozers are intended for construction/framing. Therefor basically "as quick as possible, in soft wood." All of that aggression in 2by material for plumbing/electrical passages, seems to be the point.

I have a couple of them, which I use for essentially that. Occasionally, I have to make an extra stud or two, on a reception desk.

 

[Packard]

It is probably general knowledge, but I did not notice it being mentioned.

I first drill the hole about 1/8” deep. Add the relief hole (see below) and then drill to a depth of about 1/4”. Then finish the hole by drilling from the opposite side.

Drilling from both sides means less heat build up and less friction because your saw cut is shallower.

After drilling about 1/8” deep with the hole saw, I drill the dust relief hole to intersect the kerf but not extend beyond the outside line of the circle. This allows the sawdust to exit the kerf which greatly reduces the friction and heat generated. This is especially helpful when drilling in plywood where the heat can melt the interlayer resin leaving a difficult to remove residue on the inside and outside of the saw.

After I make that first kerf cut, I will drill about 1/4” deep from the opposite side, and then return to the first side to finish the cut. No sacrifical backer is required to avoid tear out using this method. A very clean exit hole. Especially useful when drilling for lock sets.

 

[Cheese]

I'm pretty sure that the Hole Dozers are intended for construction/framing.

There's a reason that Milwaukee named them Hole Dozers...if they just took small, polite bites of wood at a time they'd probably been named Hole Dingos...or something similar.

 

[rst]

Back in day I used Craftsman carbide hole saws. I’ve been using the Milwaukee Ice and dozers. I have the 27 pc set along with a few larger. As a locksmith certain sizes were replaced fairly regularly. I’ve used them on steel, aluminum, plastics and wood. You haven’t really experienced grap until hanging while drilling 4” holes in 1” acrylic. Slower speeds, material fastened securely and keep the bit squared and jog the drill.

 

[luvmytoolz]

You haven’t really experienced grap until hanging while drilling 4” holes in 1” acrylic. Slower speeds, material fastened securely and keep the bit squared and jog the drill.

That's where the TCT Forstners really excel doing stuff like acrylic. Not so fun on a door though when you hit a staple or nail in the lock block.

 

[Cheese]

The bottom line is, if at all possible, use a drill press to use hole saws as it's easier and faster to drill the holes. If a drill press is not available, then use a drill stand such as those produced by Woodpeckers.

As a last gasp effort if the above options are not available, I'll drill a pilot hole thru the material with a 1/4" drill bit using the Big Gator drill guide. I'll then lower the pilot drill in the hole saw an additional 1/2" to allow it to be fully guided by the pilot hole.