Home-Made Router Table

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Jul 21, 2007
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I've been toying with the idea of building a router table for some time now, but now I really need one so this morning I decided the time had come...

I decided to make it as an 'insert' for my Small Kapex Work Table which I made just over 2 years ago (now looking slightly worse for wear):

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I decided on an 18mm MDF top, with a 9.5mm 'Tufnol' insert to hold the router itself. The Tufnol sheet came from eBay, GBP6.99 for a 300x200mm sheet (approx. A4 size). I drilled this so I could attach the OF1400 with 2x M5x20 pan head screws into the 2 tapped holes in the router base.

First, the top was cut to size with my TS55, here it is with the tufnol plate:

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I then used a spare piece of 9mm MDF to make a template for routing out the plate recess. Since it was just a template, I didn't worry about over-running on the corners so could cut it straight out without having to cut the corners out with the jigsaw:

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This was then clamped to the top piece, and the bit I cut out was cut down in size & tacked inside to carry the router:

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I used the 30mm collar with a half-inch bit to cut the recess, once I'd set the router to the correct depth:

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With the centre support and the template removed, I was left with cutting out the centre. I'd purposely cut the recess wide enough to take the 3omm collar, so I could simply use the same router setup to cut it out:

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I deliberately cut the recess slightly smaller than the insert plate, as the edges of the plate weren't great. So I trimmed the plate to fit on both the length & width:

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Obviously, the plate still won't fit due to the rounded cut-out corners:

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I could have squared the cut-out corners with a chisel, but I thought it would be better to round the corners of the plate instead. I did this roughly by eye with my ETS150, then a final tweak by hand:

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And, the plate fits!!!

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The plate sits approx 0.25mm proud of the MDF surface:

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And here it is on the base:

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To use it, I'll need to remove the systainers from underneath so there's room for the router....

In the next post, I'll detail the process of building a simple fence to use on the table.
 
Nice!! Great dual purpose table now.

You gonna get that modeled in SketchUp  ;D

Rey
 
The Fence

I have been looking at commercially available fences, but decided that I could make my own. Sure, it wouldn't have all the bells & whistles but for what I need it'd be more than adequate,at least for the moment.

The fence is made from scraps of MDF I had lying around. The base is 12mm, and the face 18mm. The pieces I used were already ripped to width, so I just had to cut them to length:

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After cutting small arches in them, the base & face pieces were dominoed together into an 'L' shape, and 4x small rectangular pieces were glued in to support the assembly:

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The 2 centre supports were placed closer together (100mm apart) so that I could make a box around the opening in order to add dust extraction:

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It then occured to me that I could possibly use the Festool side fence attachment (489565), so I removed the clamps, knocked out the supports, and cleaned the glue up with a damp cloth:

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I put the attachment in place & marked out for the next stage:

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This attachment has flanges on the sides to fit into a groove, so I made up some smaller blocks with a small rebate in one edge:

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and glued them into position. You can see the rebate here:

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Here is the attachment on the fence:

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It is not pushed fully home - there are 2 lugs moulded into the underside, just visible at the bottom of the above picture. These are used on the Festool router fence to lock the moulding into position, and I wanted to use them for this purpose.

I marked out the required locations for the locking lugs:

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and cut small mortices approx. 3mm deep with the 8mm domino cutter:

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With these mortices, the piece can be pushed home and locked into position:

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Apart from the tufnol plate, this router table has been built out of offcuts, and took around 4 hours to build. Next, attaching the fence & using the table!
 
Assembling the Table

As mentioned previously, the tufnol plate is fixed to the router with 2x M5x20mm screws:

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The assembly can then be fitted into the table. The depth of the router bit can be adjusted beforehand, or once it's in place:

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I had to remove some of the systainers, but there is plenty of access to all the features of the router:

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The fence is then fitted. It is the same length as the top, and there is a lip running all the way around the top, so the fence can simply be clamped into place:

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It's a very basic method, but it works, and it's infinitely adjustable. Small adjustments can be made by simply loosening one side and tapping the fence.

The small arch I cut into the face is more than adequate for clearance for most bits, but could easily be altered if required. If I ever need a zero-clearance fence, a new piece of MDF can simply be screwed to the face:

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I also made a simple featherboard from a piece of 6mm MDF:

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And it's all ready to go.

I did make a short video of the table in use - I'll upload it to youtube & then post it here.

Any comments, questions or suggestions are welcome!!!
 
Here's the video of me putting a simple rebate into a scrap piece of MDF. The quality isn't great, so apologies for that  [embarassed]

STH71087.MP4

One thing that you may notice is that I've locked on the switch on the router and used to switch on the vac to turn it on and off. When I can find one at a reasonable price I'll add a NVR switch. Doing it this way means that the electronic brake doesn't function - not much of an issue in a table I guess, but I just need to remember about it & listen out for the router stopping before going near it.
 
Very nice description of all this. I am planning to upgrade my own custom router table since it was little basic. I already ordered a 6mm aluminium plate for it. I must say your idea of using the Festool part for the suction appeals to me. Seems like a very nice solution.

I'm only contemplating on how to get the aluminium plate into shape, ie getting holes and slots in it. Anybody know if it's possible to route aluminium with a normal router?
 
 
Rutabagared said:
It is possible to route aluminum with carbide router bits but there are techniques for optimal results.  I think Pat Warner discusses this on his site - or maybe you have to purchase is CDROM/DVD.

Thanks for the reaction. Pat's website was of no use unfortunately. Been Googling around a bit and opinions are divided. I take it the carbide bits you mention are different then the standard bits used for wood? I don't think I have any carbide bits, and they sound too expensive for my purposes. I would hope to get away with using a standard 6 mm straight bit. Of course I'm going to do this very carefully, and slowly, with no more than a 1 or 2 mm depth per pass. I got all the time in the world. Plan is to make a circle template to route a stepped center hole so I can use exchangeable inserts of different sizes around the router bit.  
 
Jerome, I saw your pm. Thanks for the suggestion but I've got a plate on my way already. Sorry to reply here but you've set your profile not to accept pm's.
 
I am about to start building my own router table. I have a 1400 router and can not find a table that I am happy with so, I have purchased the following kit: UJK professional router fence, UJK 6mm aluminium router insert, M6x16 screws and a white laminated 25mm (1") thick birch plywood sheet. Total cost came to approximately £160, however, I will be able to make the table to my specifications. Once I have started, I will post pictures here onto this forum.  [big grin]
 
Alex said:
Anybody know if it's possible to route aluminium with a normal router?
 

Normal cutters will work reasonably well if you lubricate them to prevent the aluminium from sticking to the cutter.

Special aluminium lubes in the form of a paste are available but any lube such as WD40 or even kerosene will work.
 
I rout aluminum in storefront aluminum work and for jigging.  You want to use ball end milling cutters sold for milling machines.  The geometry of regular cutters is not durable enough for metal work.  You also want a heavy duty router as unless you take infinitesimally small bits it is hard on bearings.  I still use my first plunge router, a 3 1/4 hp Makita i bought in the early 80s.  I rout out lock mortises and concealed header pivots with it and a 3/8" ball mill and WD-40. 
 
BionicBloke said:
I am about to start building my own router table. I have a 1400 router and can not find a table that I am happy with so, I have purchased the following kit: UJK professional router fence, UJK 6mm aluminium router insert, M6x16 screws and a white laminated 25mm (1") thick birch plywood sheet. Total cost came to approximately £160, however, I will be able to make the table to my specifications. Once I have started, I will post pictures here onto this forum.  [big grin]

Hey BionicBloke, before I remake my own first router table for my new OF1400, did you make this table? any problems or things you would do differently now? how has it worked out for you?
 
BionicBloke said:
I am about to start building my own router table. I have a 1400 router and can not find a table that I am happy with so, I have purchased the following kit: UJK professional router fence, UJK 6mm aluminium router insert, M6x16 screws and a white laminated 25mm (1") thick birch plywood sheet. Total cost came to approximately £160, however, I will be able to make the table to my specifications. Once I have started, I will post pictures here onto this forum.  [big grin]

Hey BionicBloke, before I remake my own first router table for my new OF1400, did you make this table? any problems or things you would do differently now? how has it worked out for you?
 
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