Home Office Remodel

[DynaGlide]

Vertical plunges in carcass sides are probably my least favorite thing to do. I'm not sure I'd even feel comfortable doing it without the [member=61691]TSO_Products[/member] BigFoot accessory:

Now I can dry fit everything and pull measurements for the back panels and two doors and work on getting the adjustable shelves sized and apply front lips. Still debating on how I'll handle the face frame in terms of when I make it. It will mean longer project time but I'll probably get the cabinets painted and installed before final sizing so I can make sure it's perfect and scribe it before painting then install it.

 

[DynaGlide]

This is what happens when one of your parts isn't square:

The side with the shelf pin holes has a taper in width from 387mm to 386mm. It was supposed to be 387mm. It threw the back panel groove off by a full 2mm and the shelf pin holes are out an extra mm front to back. Should I salvage this piece by making the groove wider toward the back of the side or scrap it? I'm out of material.

Matt

 

[Cheese]

Widen the groove Matt.  [smile]

 

[squall_line]

This is what happens when one of your parts isn't square:

The side with the shelf pin holes has a taper in width from 387mm to 386mm. It was supposed to be 387mm. It threw the back panel groove off by a full 2mm and the shelf pin holes are out an extra mm front to back. Should I salvage this piece by making the groove wider toward the back of the side or scrap it? I'm out of material.

Matt

I'm not 100% sure which part isn't square because I think the lens distortion is affecting the perspective as well.

Are you saying the piece laying on its back is 387mm top-to-bottom in the back near the groove and only 386mm at the front?

Assuming you used one of the ends as a reference face for your pins, are they at least even if they're measured from either the top reference face or the bottom?

Is the top square, is the bottom square, or are neither?

 

[DynaGlide]

I'm not 100% sure which part isn't square because I think the lens distortion is affecting the perspective as well.

Are you saying the piece laying on its back is 387mm top-to-bottom in the back near the groove and only 386mm at the front?

Assuming you used one of the ends as a reference face for your pins, are they at least even if they're measured from either the top reference face or the bottom?

Is the top square, is the bottom square, or are neither?

The side laying down with the shelf pin holes measures 387mm toward the bottom and 386mm toward the top. The top and bottom panels are square and measure 387mm.

If I widen the groove like [member=44099]Cheese[/member] suggests then I think I'll be okay. The alignment of the shelf pin holes will be a little off and the back side of the cabinet would be a little off but you'd never see it anyway.

 

[squall_line]

Ahh, that makes much more sense.  I was misjudging which edges were out-of-spec, even after my metric-to-imperial conversion.

 

[Dr. P. Venkman]

I am not at all understanding how a 1mm variance in thickness* caused it to be out by that much. Is the front corner of that joint flush, or is the side with the shelf pin holes proud of the top panel?

Edit: width, not thickness.

 

[DynaGlide]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] Groove widened.

It looks worse from the side than head on

I'll be sure to install this one to the far left of the wall so the gap won't be seen. Woodworking isn't about making things perfect but how to cover up your stupid mistakes so others don't see them.

 

[cpw]

Vertical plunges in carcass sides are probably my least favorite thing to do. I'm not sure I'd even feel comfortable doing it without the [member=61691]TSO_Products[/member] BigFoot accessory:

An alternative is using the Domiplate from Seneca.  The Domiplate goes on the edge to register your offset, and the domino fence then supports the machine on the face.  There are a lot of accessories to get good results with the DF500, it's nice to have all these choices.

 

[Cheese]

Ya, once you put the shelves in there and do the filing paper shuffle  [smile]  you'll never notice it. You'd literally have to unload it to find it.

 

[DynaGlide]

Vertical plunges in carcass sides are probably my least favorite thing to do. I'm not sure I'd even feel comfortable doing it without the [member=61691]TSO_Products[/member] BigFoot accessory:

An alternative is using the Domiplate from Seneca.  The Domiplate goes on the edge to register your offset, and the domino fence then supports the machine on the face.  There are a lot of accessories to get good results with the DF500, it's nice to have all these choices.

[member=63643]cpw[/member] I bought a domiplate when I got my Domino but I don't use it because I realized pretty quick I don't like centering my mortises. It's also kind of awkward to work the Domino upside down.

 

[Cheese]

I bought a domiplate when I got my Domino but I don't use it because I realized pretty quick I don't like centering my mortises. It's also kind of awkward to work the Domino upside down.

I concur Matt...one of the first items I purchased for the DF 500 was a Domiplate but after using it, I quickly abandoned it. I keep it with the DF 500 "just in case", well, 9 years later "just in case" still hasn't happened.  [big grin]

 

[Michael Kellough]

If you widen the groove in the top piece you can close the gap.
Rip a filler to stuff behind the back panel in the then too wide groove.

 

[DynaGlide]

I finally got back to this. I think I talk myself out of making doors sometimes because they slow me down. When you only make them once a year it's a learning curve each time. I re-arranged the shop a bit the past month. Really liking the flow. I have infeed/outfeed for the miter saw at all times and can setup the CMS with outfeed as well.

The doors are the same style as the bottom cabinets. Tongue and groove with a 1/2" MDF center panel that will be back cut to fit the groove and end up about flush to the back of the door.

Once I get the doors done and test fit I'll move onto lipping the shelves and prepping for paint.

Matt

 

[cpw]

That photo could be an advertisement for the system having all the outfeeds at the same height.  That every tool serves as work support for another really makes efficient use of that space.

 

[DynaGlide]

That photo could be an advertisement for the system having all the outfeeds at the same height.  That every tool serves as work support for another really makes efficient use of that space.

The system is the only reason I can do what I do in that space. I'd love to have a giant workshop like some people.

Moment of truth:

At first I could not get an even reveal. It was way off. Then I remembered duh the cabinet isn't squared up yet. I threw some Jevons clamping squares on the back and everything lined up nicely.

Matt

 

[Sparktrician]

Nice job on the doors, Matt!  [smile]

 

[DynaGlide]

Nice job on the doors, Matt!  [smile]

Thanks Willy

On to lipping the shelves, then prep for paint.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Hey Matt, curious to how the DC was using the 1010 and the 35mm bit for the cup hinge holes?  My first attempt was a bit messy so I went back to the Kreg jig.  But hope to try my 1400 next, using the dust shroud with the window slider removed.  Thanks to the suggestion from Erik on Poplar Shop.

 

[DynaGlide]

Hey Matt, curious to how the DC was using the 1010 and the 35mm bit for the cup hinge holes?  My first attempt was a bit messy so I went back to the Kreg jig.  But hope to try my 1400 next, using the dust shroud with the window slider removed.  Thanks to the suggestion from Erik on Poplar Shop.

Hi Rick,

Honestly it's not great/almost non existent. Although I don't remember the 1400 being much better even with the window slider removed. My 1400 was in the CMS and I didn't feel like getting it out for 4 cup hinges.