How do you use your Festool OF1400 or OF1010?

[Cheese]

I should have mentioned that I also use an Amana flush-cut bit (MR0102) with the MFK 700 to get the laminate pieces to fit tightly, then use the No-File bit to put just enough of a finish round-over on them that they look right and don't tear up one's hands/wrists/forearms.  [smile]

Thanks for that  [smile]...and that MR0102 bit fits in the 700 without any modification?

 

[Sparktrician]

I should have mentioned that I also use an Amana flush-cut bit (MR0102) with the MFK 700 to get the laminate pieces to fit tightly, then use the No-File bit to put just enough of a finish round-over on them that they look right and don't tear up one's hands/wrists/forearms.  [smile]

Thanks for that  [smile]...and that MR0102 bit fits in the 700 without any modification?

It does fit, but barely.  You might want to look at the Half Inch Shy modification to relieve the area.  [blink]

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Which router would you suggest to sell?  I think somebody here said to keep the 1010 as it’s lighter, works with the LR32, can flush trim, maybe decent enough with practice or Little Lipper that I don’t need the 700 ... or keep the 1400 and add the 700?

 

[nclemmons]

The 1400 offers you the option of 1/2” bits along with 1/4” and 8mm.  A little more power for jobs that need it.  It has easier bit changes in my mind and easier changes of base inserts.  If none of these are important to you, stick with the 1010 and sell the 1400.

If you only have a few edges to trim, the 700 is an investment with no where near the utility.  Depending on where you are in your tool assortment I’d be considering other tools before a 700 if all you want to do is trim a few edges. 

 

[Bugsysiegals]

The 1400 offers you the option of 1/2” bits along with 1/4” and 8mm.  A little more power for jobs that need it.  It has easier bit changes in my mind and easier changes of base inserts.  If none of these are important to you, stick with the 1010 and sell the 1400.

If you only have a few edges to trim, the 700 is an investment with no where near the utility.  Depending on where you are in your tool assortment I’d be considering other tools before a 700 if all you want to do is trim a few edges.

For Festool I’ve the CT36, MFT/3, TS55, DF700 (selling and will replace with DF500), OF1400, OF1010, LR32, and ETS 150/3 ... other main tools are SawStop w/Incra fence, Bench Dog router table extension wing with Incra lift and PC 3HP router, and Dewalt miter saw.  Those are the main tools besides various cordless tools, crosscut sleds, jigs, etc.

I’ve only 2 router bits which are 1/2” which could be used in a handheld router and the others are for raised panel door profiling.  I could always remove the PC from the table and use the base for handheld operation if needed.  I’ve the adapter for the 1010 for flush trimming but definitely requires some practice as it can still “sag” thus I figured either Little Lipper for extra leverage or buy the 700 for less weight. 

I’m not sure there’s any other Festool I’m interested in other than the Kapex but the used ones I see for sale usually say they’ve had the motor replaced along with other things, in addition to stories here, and I’ve never had any issues with my Dewalt which is 1/3 the price so I don’t see the value in upgrading this.

Can I actually say I have all the Green I need and should find some other brand tools?  Are there any helpful tools I’m missing?  I was actually considering a smaller CNC like Onefinity but not sure what projects it would make better or more easily...

 

[nclemmons]

What kinds of projects have you built, or do you intend to build?  I’d start there.  If you are doing a lot of edge work, or laminate trimming, the 700 is a worthwhile addition.  If not, it’s utility might be limited for you.

You have a nice selection of power tools.  I’d consider additional Festool sanders, perhaps some hand tools.  The Rotex 90 and 150 are both excellent.  The VacSys is a game changer for holding work.

There’s a range of hand tools that are great - hand planes, back saws, measuring/marking, chisels, etc.  Lee Valley, Lie Nielsen, Bridge City and many others.

One of my favorite tools right now is a Shaper Origin.  Very unique and opens up a lot of new possibilities in compliment with the tools you have.

 

[Cheese]

Can I actually say I have all the Green I need and should find some other brand tools?  Are there any helpful tools I’m missing?  I was actually considering a smaller CNC like Onefinity but not sure what projects it would make better or more easily...

Like Neil said, buying green is dependent upon what your needs are. Per Neil, I'd also suggest looking more closely at the various Festool sanders that are available, the ETS EC 125/150 jumps out at me. It's truly one of the best.

Once you exchange the DF 700 for the DF 500 that in itself will be an eye opening experience.

The OF 1010 & LR 32 are symbiotic companions...there's nothing better.

The Saw Stop is a great saw you only need to fill in the small divots for the rest of the tools.

I'd jettison the 1400, keep the 1010 and fine tune your finesse while using the 1010 with the Festool trim guides to trim edge banding. You admitted that it was your children that sabotaged your effort...put the kids outside with a campfire and some smores and you can trim edge banding inside with the 1010 and a few Festool add-ons.  [smile]

 

[PaulMarcel]

Getting back to trimming edging, the OF-1400 can be used with the edging plate (486058) and angle arm (486052). They work with the 1010 and 1400. I don't have a 1010 (yet?), but that combination works well on the 1400 if you support the router body with some light finger pressure. I'd do that even with the lighter 1010. Work well and include a micro-adjust that is really nice for dialing in the flushing bit. Yes, the 700 with my mod is really nice for flushing (the 700 was made for that) and has amazing dust collection doing it, but the other routers can do it with a not-unreasonably-priced set of accessories. I bought them "just in case" and they bailed me out more than a few times.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Can I actually say I have all the Green I need and should find some other brand tools?  Are there any helpful tools I’m missing?  I was actually considering a smaller CNC like Onefinity but not sure what projects it would make better or more easily...

Like Neil said, buying green is dependent upon what your needs are. Per Neil, I'd also suggest looking more closely at the various Festool sanders that are available, the ETS EC 125/150 jumps out at me. It's truly one of the best.

Once you exchange the DF 700 for the DF 500 that in itself will be an eye opening experience.

The OF 1010 & LR 32 are symbiotic companions...there's nothing better.

The Saw Stop is a great saw you only need to fill in the small divots for the rest of the tools.

I'd jettison the 1400, keep the 1010 and fine tune your finesse while using the 1010 with the Festool trim guides to trim edge banding. You admitted that it was your children that sabotaged your effort...put the kids outside with a campfire and some smores and you can trim edge banding inside with the 1010 and a few Festool add-ons.  [smile]

Thanks for the feedback Cheese!

My sander is the ETS EC 150/3  It’s a great sander but I have to learn how to not round over edges when near the corner. I bought the stiffer backing page but haven’t used it much yet.

I dont have an immediate need for the DF 500 and wonder if I should wait to see about a reconditioned one or just buy it new?

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Getting back to trimming edging, the OF-1400 can be used with the edging plate (486058) and angle arm (486052). They work with the 1010 and 1400. I don't have a 1010 (yet?), but that combination works well on the 1400 if you support the router body with some light finger pressure. I'd do that even with the lighter 1010. Work well and include a micro-adjust that is really nice for dialing in the flushing bit. Yes, the 700 with my mod is really nice for flushing (the 700 was made for that) and has amazing dust collection doing it, but the other routers can do it with a not-unreasonably-priced set of accessories. I bought them "just in case" and they bailed me out more than a few times.

Hey Paul, thanks for the feedback.  I’d only tried the 1400 vertically with some MDF underneath which had the front area shaved away to allow the edge banding to make it under the bit. That didn’t work as well as I’d like and I never tried it with the edge adapter in horizontal position. I have more edging to do in the near future so while the 1400 is heavier, I’ll see just how well I can do with the 1400 with the adapter and careful attention.

 

[Roseland]

Very interesting thread.  I have both an OF1010 and an OF1400, and, like Bugsysiegals have had the router bit gouge edging when I wasn't supporting the router properly.

The video Brice Burrell did on the Festool Edging Accessories shows him going from right to left:
http://greenanddarkblue.blogspot.com/2012/06/festools-edge-routing-accessories.html

This is how I've always done it.  The videos of the Little Lipper show going from left to right, in other words a climb cut.  Perhaps the issue is when taking too deep a cut the thrust from the cutter causes the gouge.

Next time I'm doing some edging I'll try from left to right.

Andrew

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I also went Right to Left for the initial cutting. Thanks for sharing that perspective .... I’ll have to give that a go next time also and see if it makes any difference.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rick Herrick]

Getting back to trimming edging, the OF-1400 can be used with the edging plate (486058) and angle arm (486052). They work with the 1010 and 1400. I don't have a 1010 (yet?), but that combination works well on the 1400 if you support the router body with some light finger pressure. I'd do that even with the lighter 1010. Work well and include a micro-adjust that is really nice for dialing in the flushing bit. Yes, the 700 with my mod is really nice for flushing (the 700 was made for that) and has amazing dust collection doing it, but the other routers can do it with a not-unreasonably-priced set of accessories. I bought them "just in case" and they bailed me out more than a few times.

[member=3513]PaulMarcel[/member] Hi Paul, I am struggling with DC on my new MFK700.  Your piece above is the first one I have seen indicating good DC with it.  I am not finding that to be the case.  I even called FT this morning and then they pretty much implied, its not that great for DC.  I really want to keep this thing, even though it may be a one trick pony (for me anyway), but I can't do that with the DC issues I have.  Its not bad with iron-on edging but doing edging on 1/2" oak was a mess.  Cuts were fine but DC not so much.  Any pointers please ?  Thanks

 

[PaulMarcel]

[member=3513]PaulMarcel[/member] Hi Paul, I am struggling with DC on my new MFK700.  Your piece above is the first one I have seen indicating good DC with it.  I am not finding that to be the case.  I even called FT this morning and then they pretty much implied, its not that great for DC.  I really want to keep this thing, even though it may be a one trick pony (for me anyway), but I can't do that with the DC issues I have.  Its not bad with iron-on edging but doing edging on 1/2" oak was a mess.  Cuts were fine but DC not so much.  Any pointers please ?  Thanks

Not sure if I'm doing anything special. I don't use iron-on banding, but do use 1/2" hardwood edging. To level that, I use the 0º base with the dust hood. I do get some chips that fly out, for sure, but the bulk and all the fines are eliminated without issue. Also, I usually only get the chips when I hit a part that is too thick so I'm tilting the base to knock it down. I always use a down-spiral bit, which may also affect DC and chip size.

I rarely use the vertical base, but did last night to trim cork on a board. Even with that, I didn't have anything on the floor after trimming. Used the same down-spiral bit.

 

[dwillis]

I'm in the process of doing the interior trim work on my new home and am using the OF 1400 to cut rabbits and profiles in clear vertical grain hemlock. Because I'm profiling long boards I'm using the CMS to hold the router. Besides the 1400 I also have a 1010 and 2200 but with the soft wood felt that the 1400 was appropriate for the task. Based on the test pieces I've cut the 1400 has no problems cutting the material. My only issue is not with the router but with dust collection on the CMS because the initial cut ejects sawdust in front of the work until a sufficient length of board has passed the dust port on the fence. So it's not a router issue.

 

[Stone Message]

I'm in the process of doing the interior trim work on my new home and am using the OF 1400 to cut rabbits and profiles in clear vertical grain hemlock. Because I'm profiling long boards I'm using the CMS to hold the router. Besides the 1400 I also have a 1010 and 2200 but with the soft wood felt that the 1400 was appropriate for the task. Based on the test pieces I've cut the 1400 has no problems cutting the material. My only issue is not with the router but with dust collection on the CMS because the initial cut ejects sawdust in front of the work until a sufficient length of board has passed the dust port on the fence. So it's not a router issue.

This happens with most router tables. With the CMS setup you can vastly improve the dust collection for this type of work as follows...

When cutting channels (rabbits) of any sort there is no need for a dust collection path at the rear. So, I remove that part of the split hose and block it off. This then increases the efficiency of the collection from below.

Try it - it really does make a huge difference.

Peter

 

[bertv]

When cutting channels (rabbits) of any sort there is no need for a dust collection path at the rear. So, I remove that part of the split hose and block it off. This then increases the efficiency of the collection from below.

Also, using two dc’s (one for each port) makes a difference... : )

Another way to limit dust thrown about is to limit grooves etc. by not going to the edges of the piece, thus capturing dust in the groove. This of course implies using oversized pieces and some pre-planning.

 

[dwillis]

Peter and Burt- Thank you for the dust collection tips using the OF 1400 and CMS, I’ll give them a try immediately.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Not sure if I'm doing anything special. I don't use iron-on banding, but do use 1/2" hardwood edging. To level that, I use the 0º base with the dust hood. I do get some chips that fly out, for sure, but the bulk and all the fines are eliminated without issue. Also, I usually only get the chips when I hit a part that is too thick so I'm tilting the base to knock it down. I always use a down-spiral bit, which may also affect DC and chip size.

I rarely use the vertical base, but did last night to trim cork on a board. Even with that, I didn't have anything on the floor after trimming. Used the same down-spiral bit.

Thanks Paul.  I made a little more progress yesterday.  Pretty sure part of my problem is technique.  I don't have any DC issues with the vertical base.  It is only on the horizontal base.  My first test with 1/2" oak was quite messy but yesterday I did 1/4 maple and things were much cleaner.  I am using the initial bit (5/8" cutter, 491666) now.  I have not done your mod to allow more cutter length.  Are you using a longer bit and your mod'd base ?

 

[PaulMarcel]

Thanks Paul.  I made a little more progress yesterday.  Pretty sure part of my problem is technique.  I don't have any DC issues with the vertical base.  It is only on the horizontal base.  My first test with 1/2" oak was quite messy but yesterday I did 1/4 maple and things were much cleaner.  I am using the initial bit (5/8" cutter, 491666) now.  I have not done your mod to allow more cutter length.  Are you using a longer bit and your mod'd base ?

Yes, the down-spiral is pretty long... I need a shorter one for the 700 tbh, but it was a bit I had purchased for the 1400. That Festool cutter you are using looks like a straight bit. The down-spiral I'm using will tend to slice material off and push it away from the router body. That may be helping. And, yes, I'm using my modded 0º base (only 0º I have). The extra bit clearance is useful for a couple other spirals I use, but this one does just fit.