How I rip FF and door pieces

[lumbajac]

Thinking about a stop. Simply run a screw into the edge of the spacer, leave it stick out an inch or so.

Tom

Or maybe a domino for little more stability.

 

[Kev]

Very practical Tom [wink]

Not only that ... if you have a width you wish to copy, put that against the fence and use your method to cut the spacer. You don't even need to measure a thing.

Nicely done!

 

[peter halle]

To add to this discussion, let's say that you are going to try this and already have a rail or stile the correct width.  To make the spacer put the rail or stile against the MFT fence, then put your soon to be master spacer board next to it and set up your rail as Tom shows and then cut your spacer.  No fuss.

I was going to do this yesterday, but I will be making these type of spacers for my parts for aquarium stands.

Thanks again Tom!

Peter

 

[tjbnwi]

Everyone,

You're welcome and thanks for the additional suggestions.

Today I used the "rips in the field" method again.

I chose a screw for a stop, because everyone can find a screw (get your minds out of the gutter) but not everyone has a Domino.

I hope everyone who wishes to use this method can make it work for them.

Tom

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Everyone,

You're welcome and thanks for the additional suggestions.

Today I used the "rips in the field" method again.

I chose a screw for a stop, because everyone can find a screw (get your minds out of the gutter) but not everyone has a Domino.

I hope everyone who wishes to use this method can make it work for them.

Tom

I know when I lose a screw, that's the first place I look.

 

[peter halle]

Ken,

Wow!  Is your MFT set up on your roof or at the edge of the street?

Peter

 

[Ken Nagrod]

It hovers above my inverted vac-sys.

 

[ScotF]

Everyone,

You're welcome and thanks for the additional suggestions.

Today I used the "rips in the field" method again.

I chose a screw for a stop, because everyone can find a screw (get your minds out of the gutter) but not everyone has a Domino.

I hope everyone who wishes to use this method can make it work for them.

Tom

I know when I lose a screw, that's the first place I look.

Next time I lose a screw I am going to call Sanchos...

Scot

 

[Iwood75]

Thanks Tom for your "ripping good" idea. Here's my take on it. It's just a variation that I think will work better for me.

First, I replaced the cardboard table protector with 1/4" plywood. This gives me a flatter surface for my clamping. (See photos, hope they work.) It's still cheap and lightweight and will hold up better in storage.

Then, the biggest difference is using a wooden fence on TOP of the spacer board. By sliding it forward or back, its "size" is variable. And, I can clamp the fence and spacer together so there's no chance the spacer board will move during cutting. So, I'll just store these 3 "Rip Kit" components together and easily and quickly be ready to go the next time I'm ripping narrow pieces with no need to cut new spacers. I've planed this spacer board down to 18mm for this project – and to level it in the future with 19mm stock – I'll just shim it up 1mm. Obviously, if I ever rip 1/2' material, I'll need a new spacer board but probably 95% of the time, I use the TS 55 for 3/4" material.

Note that my spacer board's lower front edge is rabbeted so saw dust/chips won't interfere with good board contact and I used your suggestion (thanks) to add the Domino in the edge to keep my keeper piece from creeping.

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[tjbnwi]

I'm glad you were able to work out the details for your best use I (again that third person thing).

I only post what I do as suggestions. Everyone needs to adapt it to their way of working.

Who ever suggest the Domino, that thanks goes to you.

Tom

 

[peter halle]

I wanted to follow up and say that I tried Tom's approach this past week and I have to say I love it!

Thanks Tom! 

Peter

 

[tjbnwi]

Happy it worked out for you Peter. I had to do 36- 2" and 10-1" rips 10' long today for battens. Glad I figured out how to do it simply.

Tom

 

[peter halle]

Tom,

I had to duplicate stock that i had already made.  It was simple.  I also liked the fact that with your system the jig (spacer) doesn't have to be as long as the finished piece.

Thanks again!

Peter

 

[CarolinaNomad]

Just wanted to add to Tom's Brillant idea and Iwood's pictures, instead of clamping the rail to the spacer board, try drilling holes in two columns in a staggered pattern in increments of what you need.  Then all your doing is placing Qwas dogs in the holes as the rail.  You can use the router attached to the track to make the hole patterns in the increments needed while retaining parallel

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[epicxt]

Just wanted to add to Tom's Brillant idea and Iwood's pictures, instead of clamping the rail to the spacer board, try drilling holes in two columns in a staggered pattern in increments of what you need.  Then all your doing is placing Qwas dogs in the holes as the rail.  You can use the router attached to the track to make the hole patterns in the increments needed while retaining parallel

[attachimg=#]

Brilliant! I love this forum for sharing (stealing) ideas!

 

[CarolinaNomad]

I altered my design after further thought.  Basically, I flipped the infeed side so that it can be used for sheet goods and simplify the use.  Cut, remove finished piece, then push material against stop and cut.  Repeat as necessary.  The other way I designed it (trapping the finished piece under the track), slowed the process down.

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[Flat4Boxer]

This is some good information right here.  Thank all for sharing your ideas.

 

[Patrick Cox]

Just wanted to add to Tom's Brillant idea and Iwood's pictures, instead of clamping the rail to the spacer board, try drilling holes in two columns in a staggered pattern in increments of what you need.  Then all your doing is placing Qwas dogs in the holes as the rail.  You can use the router attached to the track to make the hole patterns in the increments needed while retaining parallel

[attachimg=#]

Hello,
This image seems to be missing.  I think a lot of these older posts have missing images.  Anyway, does anyone have this design?  I can't really read it as is.  Thanks.

 

[tjbnwi]

[member=61142]Patrick Cox[/member]

The drawing.

Tom

 

[Patrick Cox]

[member=61142]Patrick Cox[/member]

The drawing.

Tom

Thanks [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] !  Would you mind re-posting the pictures at the beginning of the thread as well?  Those links are also broken.  Much appreciated neighbor.  BTW, I was just up at Marc Adams Woodworking school.  Have you ever taken classes there?  It's a very nice facility.

Pat