How much sawdust is expected with a TS75?

[schneems]

When I'm cutting with the 75 there's more dust than I would like. I've got it hooked to a CT48 with the factory 27mm hose. This photo is right after I replaced the cutting strip. Does this seem about right for what you all are seeing? Is there something I can do to improve collection?

Here's a photo after I ripped some butcherblock:https://imgur.com/a/BenofNL

 

[TinyShop]

You need a 35/36mm hose. The 27mm diameter just doesn't cut it.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Were you ripping or trimming?

Dust collection will be good if the blade is enclosed by wood so the only place dust can go is up into the housing and to the hose. If trimming, and the right side of the kerf is open, a lot of dust will escape to the right.

When trimming I tape a piece of card stock to the housing such that it hangs down to the top of the wood. That simple addition greatly improves dust collection.

 

[schneems]

> Were you ripping or trimming?

Ripping, you can see the cut off on the other side of the blade. I also can see sawdust fly into the air when i'm cross cutting as well.

> You need a 35/36mm hose.

It's on my wish list. Do you think that could account for this issue by itself? Anything else I should look into or replace, fix, clean, or modify?

> just doesn't cut it.

Heh.

 

[waho6o9]

How about using a Festool Panther rip blade?

 

[TinyShop]

[member=64213]schneems[/member] -  regular 36mm hoses can be had under the Bosch or Starmix brand names among others (usually all made by Nilfisk) - the non-antistatic version (grey) is inexpensive. The anti-static version (blue) is about half the cost of the 35mm braided green version. For best results, you'll need to source the proper Festool tool-end fitting (which fits over the TS-75's dust port - the tool-end fitting that comes with the Bosch/Starmix/Bosch 36nm hoses fits inside the dust port). There's plenty of info available elsewhere on this forum.

Make sure to remove the blade cover/shroud periodically to remove built-up sawdust since this buildup contaminates the airflow. Also, cover the open access hole (for the arbor bolt) with a piece of blue or green tape and consider fabricating a DIY dust cover (like the one suggested earlier) for use while edge trimming. The most effective versions cover not only the side of the blade but the front as well:

=57

 

[Birdhunter]

I use the 27mm hose with my TS55 and never get any escaping dust except right at the very end of the cut. That’s true regardless of type of cut. I’ve never used a TS75 but it would be strange if there was a huge difference.

 

[schneems]

Here's a video of a rip cut I just took. You can see that there's pretty much continuous dust:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t77eqc7rqylhiz2/2020-02-12 13.59.30.mov?dl=0

I see the same dust results when I crosscut too fwiw.

 

[Sanderxpander]

Is this with a fresh dustbag, a clean filter and the CT on full suction?

 

[Michael Kellough]

That’s quite a tortuous path they dust has to take to get to the vac. Too restrictive for a small hose.
Not only does the small hose reduce the flow, the way the fitting inserts into the hose port and blocks the flow of some of the debris creates turbulence which further impacts collection.

Your situation is worse than the above because of poor hose management. Take out one of the four 90 degree turns.

You can’t remove the first, it’s part of the saw.

Point the saw’s hose port to the right (the vac is over there right?) and figure out a better way to carry the hose.

The TS75 is not the best saw for making shallow cuts from the point of view of dust collection. The video clearly shows that at that cutting depth the saw teeth are throwing debris forward rather than up into the saw as a smaller diameter blade would do (relatively speaking). The additional wood block in a post above would help a lot.

Another thing, when the sacrificial surface has a lot of kerfs it allows the vacuum to dissipate.

Reducing dust takes some work but it’s worth the trouble.

One last thing, what’s the condition of the vac’s dust bag?

 

[gunnyr]

IMHO it is unreasonable to expect that cutting wood with portable tools, even with the exceptional dust collection offered by the use of a Festool Dust Extractor and Track Saw, can be a dust free event.  I suggest that you disconnect the hose and see how much dust is created. 

 

[Birdhunter]

Watched the video and seeing the saw sit so hiigh off the wood it’s no surprise there is
a lot of dust thrown out. My TS55 sits on the wood, even thin wood.

 

[schneems]

> seeing the saw sit so hiigh off

What do you mean by that? The saw is on the track. Not on the wood.

> Point the saw’s hose port to the right (the vac is over there right?) and figure out a better way to carry the hose.

I usually do, I had it set up so I could move the camera halfway through the shot. Even with no twists or turns it's about the same, shooting dust out the front.

> The additional wood block in a post above would help a lot.

I agree, is there any more info for making one? That video is in french.

> One last thing, what’s the condition of the vac’s dust bag?

Bag is maybe 1/8 full. The 48 is a beast. I wish I got the 36. The filter looks brand new.

I did take my blade out and take a look. Two of these things are not like the others, I'm missing two blade teeth, not sure how. I bought the saw used, so maybe the former owner was practicing his juggling.
https://imgur.com/a/VcjHkfj

While that's certainly a problem, would that cause dust issues?

 

[semenza]

Hi,

  Are you cutting all the way through on that cut in the video?   

  What about on a deeper cut, do you get the same result with more of the blade in the would?

 

Seth

 

[schneems]

Yes, the blade is all the way through the wood and into the MFT. I don’t have a good setup for repeatable rips like this so I like to minimize damage to the top, the blade is only a few mm into the top. Even when cutting the thicker butcher block I saw same/similar dust spray.

I ordered a new blade and a pack of splinter guards. Hopefully those help.

 

[NL-mikkla]

Also put a piece of tape over the opening on the right side of the saw.
You know the place where you put in the hex key to change the blade.
That also gives great improvement.

 

[schneems]

I couldn't figure out how that french video got that small wood block in the front, then searching on youtube I found this video where he uses the the attachment points for the Parallel Side Fence along with a 5/16" rod. The only thing I don't know is how he got the screw down clamps at the top (photo:

?dl=0)

I've installed a new blade, bought new splinter guards that will get here today, and I've covered my arbor access hole in the side with painters tape.

Once I install the splinter guards, i'll try to make a few cuts to see if there's an improvement. If that's not good enough then my upgrade steps would be to build some sort of a wood piece in front of the blade as shown in the french video (assuming I can figure out where to buy the clamps), upgrading to the bigger festool hose, and replacing my MFT table top so it has fewer kerf marks.

 

[butzla]

No to over confuse things.  I have no problem whatsoever with dust using the stock hose on my TS75.

 

[schneems]

Thanks. That info does help. I might save that hose upgrade for last. I'm hoping the blade replacement does the trick.

 

[Mario Turcot]

If rare earth magnet can be used on the casing (blade guard), I would do an L shape jig to trap the dust.