How to Install Free-standing Cabinet Drawer for Kitchen Office

Thanks for the suggestions.

I actually broke down sheet goods on Saturday, so I am now committed.  I suppose I could alter the face frame to some degree, but I'll likely stay the course now as I have constraints on overall width and openings to match the doors I had pre-ordered.

I love the look of the beaded face frame and inset doors/drawers and will probably try that when i build a new bathroom vanity.  This desk needs to match the rest of my kitchen.

 
I finished the carcass/frame this weekend.  I still need to add the cleat which will attach to the studs on the right and along the back.

A question that has come up, is what do y'all do to make sure you don't hit electrical when trying to screw into studs.  Normally, I wouldn't be too concerned.  In the case of this desk, approx 6" to the left of the desk area is where the main circuit breaker for the house is (on the other side of the wall in the garage).  This gives me a little "pause" as I'd like to continue breathing.

I had thought about peeling back the drywall on the garage side, exposing all the potential risks, locating the studs and drilling small pilot screws from the garage side on both sides of the studs so the location is clear.  I'd sure prefer not to create more work if I don't have too.

Thoughts?

Also, see photos of progress below  (my favorite picture is number one where you can see just the top of my small helper's head):

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Is your electrical Romex or is conduit the code there?

You can purchase stud finders that also sense power, so that would be one option to ensure you are not near power lines.

In general, if you are screwing into studs, there should be little chance of hitting a Romex line that might have been drilled through them.

Are you painting the finished cabinet?  Only ask because it might be easier to finish if it were not screwed in place.

neil
 
I assume it is conduit…but you know what they say about assuming :)

I am aware of the stud finders, I suppose I am a little more nervous with the panel so close.  I'm not too worried once I am sure where the studs are.  My apprehension is thinking I've found a stud and finding a live wire.

As for the painting.  You are correct that it would be better to paint first.  In my case, I have a friend with a painting business who is going to do my entire kitchen.  He is going to have to tape everything off and paint all our cabinets, island, etc.  He'll just hit this in place along with the rest of my kitchen after we get granite installed throughout.

neilc said:
Is your electrical Romex or is conduit the code there?

You can purchase stud finders that also sense power, so that would be one option to ensure you are not near power lines.

In general, if you are screwing into studs, there should be little chance of hitting a Romex line that might have been drilled through them.

Are you painting the finished cabinet?  Only ask because it might be easier to finish if it were not screwed in place.

neil
 
If you call your city/village they can tell you.  Or just open up an electrical box and you can see if it is a Romex or conduit connector in the box. 

There should be no issues with an electronic stud finder finding a stud and detecting any electric in the wall.  You only need about four screws in the wall - two on the side, two on the back and you'll be good to go.

 
For this install, I'm definitely going to use a cleat on studs.

Thanks for sharing though,  I'll have to try those snaptoggles for many other applications. They look pretty slick.

mike_aa said:
Another option where you don't have to worry about screwing into a stud is a Toggler SnapToggle.

Mike A.
 
I am hoping to install this in place tomorrow.

When I dry fit, I noticed that the floor isn't entirely level. So on the level the bubble is still centered, but it's kissing the side. If I had to guess, the floor slopes 1/8" over 24".  This is affecting the unit from front to back with the back ever so slightly higher than the front due to floor slope.

Visually, it isn't noticeable. I will be installing granite so I wasn't sure the best bet.

I really don't want to shim from the bottom. I'm not kean on scribing the bottom as Im not sure the ro90 or ro150 would leave a clean scribe in my hands.

Would this slight slope bother y'all (or be a risk for the 39"x23" granite slab that will sit on top)?
 
1/8 over 24" is way too much, in my opinion.
Track saw or planer to scribe, depending on how straight the cut is.
 
I may have overstated the slope, but I totally spaced that I could lay the track right on the finished box and trim with the tracksaw. Good tip.

Now I am worried about all the existing caninets that are already in place (from the original builder) and how to ensure they are level in preparation for granite.

Any tips there?  (Removing old cabinets is not an option.)

Linbro said:
1/8 over 24" is way too much, in my opinion.
Track saw or planer to scribe, depending on how straight the cut is.
 
The granite installers I know always check the substrate for level, and pack where necessary. Having level cabinets to start with is ideal though.
 
So I shimmed the base cabinet to see where "level" was.  floor sloped around 1/16".

I marked with a pencil and busted out the TS55 and a rail and trimmed at the scribe line.

Came out just right and now sits level. 
 
I just bought a TS 55 this fall, specifically for cabinet installation.  I wish I would've bought one seventeen years ago.
 
Desk is done, and now so are the drawers.

Behold…the Domi-drawer :)

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Nice.  Looks wide and shallow. I have decided to do the domino drawers on the cherry cabinet I built.  Just plum running out of time and want this project done.
 
Thanks. It's actually skinny and deep as it is the pencil drawer.  The knee drawer is also done which is 20"x20".

bronco71 said:
Nice.  Looks wide and shallow. I have decided to do the domino drawers on the cherry cabinet I built.  Just plum running out of time and want this project done.
 
Grasshopper, The Domino Drawer really looks nice!  Great idea.  Are they the standard ones or did you use a different wood?  They look dark in color.

Mike A.
 
Thanks Mike A.  I am pleased how they turned out.

I just used the standard 4mm Dominos.  I was surprised that they provided the contrast they did, which was a pleasant surprise.

mike_aa said:
Grasshopper, The Domino Drawer really looks nice!  Great idea.  Are they the standard ones or did you use a different wood?  They look dark in color.

Mike A.
 
*Update*  I am excited to move onto the install...

...Just as soon as I repair the drywall after I "located" the 3" sewer pipe with a pilot screw.  Whoops…  (on the bright side, I now know where the studs and romex lines are :)

That saga is documented here:  http://festoolownersgroup.com/home-improvement-other-projects/uh-oh-what-the-studfinder-missed-plumbing-tips-anyone/msg370222/#msg370222

Who likes drywall repairs???  (Notice nobody held their hands up  [wink])

I am missing the sound of my Festools right now as I get covered in drywall dust.  Hey, I'd thing the RO150 will be pretty sweet for sanding :)

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