How would you make this cut?

Ken Nagrod said:
I would humbly request that my post be given 2 chances for the CXS.  [big grin]

With that kind of research into your answer, I fully endorse your proposal. [big grin]
 
Alex said:
Ken Nagrod said:
I would humbly request that my post be given 2 chances for the CXS.  [big grin]

With that kind of research into your answer, I fully endorse your proposal. [big grin]

But then you would lose one vote due to that animated GIF of you dancing wearing a tutu versus a kilt.  I know, it is TuTu Tuesday, but Ken,  you know better.  Geesh. [eek]

Peter
 
Looking at it the the drawer front rabbet is cut incorrectly. the rabbet should be parallel to the front and the shoulder should be cut with the inside edge angled at 68 degrees. That picture is the drawer for the parts cabinet which has 3 sides. 180 degrees (triangle) - 45 degrees (back) divided by 2 (for each side) = 68 degrees. Depending on what side of the drawer side I was cutting (inside or outside) I would set my miter saw or ts 55 to 22 degrees and cut the drawer side [attachthumb=#]
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Wow, I should check back more frequently.  The is a drawer from the American Screw and Bolt Company cabinet (I made a post in Projects looking for plans).

My Raleigh, it would appear you are correct.  I've posted a picture from the original below.  The original picture I posted is from a reproduction.  

I have a nice table saw but it's not set up.  Further, I thought this project may create the excuse to purchase more Festools (hence, the limitation).  

drawer.png


Let me change the challenge a bit.  How would you join those two boards using only Festool products.  I'm willing to whip out the Domino and "cheat."  However, I feel like a rabbit is called for but I don't have a Festool miter saw yet.  Can you repeat depth of cut accurately with the Festool miter saw?  This will take 144 cuts.
 
The Kapex does have a trenching feature where you can lock the "depth of cut".  You will need to put a spacer board between the fence and the workpiece to get a flat cut. 

Peter
 
marrt,

If that picture is showing an equilateral triangle (drawer), then the angle of the corner is 60 degrees which translates to 30 degree bevel cuts on the saws since where they call 0 degrees is really 90 degrees.

Confused yet?
 
Peter said:
The Kapex does have a trenching feature where you can lock the "depth of cut".  You will need to put a spacer board between the fence and the workpiece to get a flat cut. 

Peter

Are you kidding?  You can cut out half lap joints easily?  I had not considered a Kapex until just now...
 
The last two miter saws I had, had a trenching feature which, sucked so bad I refused to use it.

I will admit to the fact that I use that feature on my Kapex probably once a week.
 
Alex said:
Ken Nagrod said:
I would humbly request that my post be given 2 chances for the CXS.  [big grin]

With that kind of research into your answer, I fully endorse your proposal. [big grin]

Wait a second here, we get entries for answering questions too?  [eek]
 
harry_ said:
Wait a second here, we get entries for answering questions too?  [eek]

Them is da rules.  If you don't like that part, you can request to transfer your answer credits to me.  [smile]
 
I would make that cut either using my TS-55 in the CMS table or the Kapex, depending on which tool that was closest atm. I'm torn as to which method that would be easiest.
 
If making the cut shown in the first post I would go with trenching on Kapex or TS55 / 75 and guide rail. Multiple passes either way.

If making the cut shown in post #22 & #23 the HL850 Planer would be another possibility using the angle  fence /  stop. Then making a final pass at 90 on the fence. With the spiral blade the cross grain might not even be too bad.

Seth
 
I would cut the side piece at the necessary bevel with a TS55, table saw or whatever, then domino it to the face piece, and trim off the excess on the face piece with a flush trim router bit.

[attachthumb=#]
 
Isn't the edge curved though, or is that just me?

Seems like there is some rounding to the cut...

That would call for a router, sander, band saw, or hand tool of some sort?
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
The last two miter saws I had, had a trenching feature which, sucked so bad I refused to use it.

I will admit to the fact that I use that feature on my Kapex probably once a week.

The Kapex trench feature aint that great either to be honest!  Its stop depth stop height is WAY to low for a lot of jobs!   They need to make it so the blade can be stopped at a higher depth.  Its fine for door linings,casing but any thing above 2 inch its crap as you end up doing a trench half the depth of the timber  and often I would like to just do a 10 -20 mm trench on a 3x3 or something and it wont do it.  My makita compound mitre saw has a much higher depth stop.  

Its one of the only thing I HATE about the kapex everything else im pretty happy with one or two other things but I dont HATE it as much as the Depth stop lol

JMB
 
davee said:
Peter said:

There appears to be a flaw in the video, the gentleman appears to be referring to the manual.  What benefit would that provide?

I just checked the link and at about the three minute mark he is demonstrating using the trenching feature to cut a notch in a piec of blocking to go around a copper pipe.  At least that is what it shows on my system.

Peter


LOL.
 
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