HVLP Turbine/Professional Use in Colorado

[sancho57]

And to add,
Accuspray is the best turbine set up.

I had a accuspray conversion gun. It was very good. I gave it away to a friend, 3 m bought accuspray and discontinued the gun and I can't get parts anymore.

I'm looking hard at the optima spray guns now. German made lvlp. I has gotten great reviews.
http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/MotorGuard/

 

[brewster201]

Hello most if not all turbine units use the same vac units supplied by Ametek. Google Ametek
Ametek 5.7” dia., by-pass tangential discharge
- three stage #116765-00
- two stage #119-412-13
- both are rated 500 hour average life

- Ametek also makes 7.2” dia. motors with a 700 hour average life.
I really don't believe the digital Psi output is accurate, really if you have a 4-5 stage it should work fine
At the unit is really is not accurate, actual pressure should be checked at the gun due to pressure loss through hose, and you can easily add a small compressor/pressure pot as described earlier

I use a Fuji 4 stage unit with no issues, Fuji will come out with there new 5 stage unit next week, you can check it out on there web site
Just adding my 2cents and hope it helps

Bruce

 

[avrs22]

Hello most if not all turbine units use the same vac units supplied by Ametek. Google Ametek
Ametek 5.7” dia., by-pass tangential discharge
- three stage #116765-00
- two stage #119-412-13
- both are rated 500 hour average life

- Ametek also makes 7.2” dia. motors with a 700 hour average life.
I really don't believe the digital Psi output is accurate, really if you have a 4-5 stage it should work fine
At the unit is really is not accurate, actual pressure should be checked at the gun due to pressure loss through hose, and you can easily add a small compressor/pressure pot as described earlier

I use a Fuji 4 stage unit with no issues, Fuji will come out with there new 5 stage unit next week, you can check it out on there web site
Just adding my 2cents and hope it helps

Bruce

500 hour average life and 700 hour average life that's not a long life.
Back in the days when I used turbines the thing would be running about 30 hrs a week and they lasted years.
So it means that the turbines used now days would only last 4-5 months?
Not a good investment in my opinion.

 

[sancho57]

I really suggest that you give Jeff Jewitt a call at Homestead finishes. He sells turbine and conversion guns. He is very well respected in the industry and will set up a gun to spray what you want.

I have called him a few times for advice which he gives freely.
http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/products-we-offer/finishes/
.

 

[tjbnwi]

I ran my Q4 8-12 hours a day for 45 days straight. Never shut it off until the end of the day. My unit is 4 years old, probably has 2500 hours on it.

Tom

 

[tiralie]

I'm surprised no one suggested warming up the material getting sprayed.

Are you referring to water-borne or solvent based?

If the material is warmed it will take a lot less psi to atomize it.

Agreed, but that usually applies to solvent based coatings. I would think that if you increase the temperature of waterborne coatings they will dry too quickly and not level properly.

I put my lacquer or poly in a old fridge that always has a light bulb on that keeps my product warm and since then I don't have to thin my product and have a better build up and finish.

Solvent or waterborne? or both?

The colder the product is the more psi needed to atomize it and the more thinner needed.

Agreed.

 

[tiralie]

I had a accuspray conversion gun. It was very good. I gave it away to a friend, 3 m bought accuspray and discontinued the gun and I can't get parts anymore.

I have heard that the the Accuspray 10G series guns (turbine) are very good and they are PPS ready.
Tim

 

[avrs22]

I'm surprised no one suggested warming up the material getting sprayed.

Are you referring to water-borne or solvent based?

If the material is warmed it will take a lot less psi to atomize it.

Agreed, but that usually applies to solvent based coatings. I would think that if you increase the temperature of waterborne coatings they will dry too quickly and not level properly.

I put my lacquer or poly in a old fridge that always has a light bulb on that keeps my product warm and since then I don't have to thin my product and have a better build up and finish.

Solvent or waterborne? or both?

The colder the product is the more psi needed to atomize it and the more thinner needed.

Agreed.

I do it for both my waterborne lacquer and solvent. My waterborne Polly too.
I don't use the solvent lacquer much the past few years as it got to the point that I couldn't stand the fumes.
My product is always the same temperature so the viscosity is always the same. Also since the product is warm the viscosity is lower so I can lower the pressure gauge on the pressure pot.
With having the waterborne lacquer warmed I don't have any problems with it drying too fast or not leveling.

 

[tjbnwi]

When I shot all the doors, I did warm the KA+, the building was about 55º. Not ideal, but we got through it.

Tom

 

[Allyson]

Hi all,

Again, thank you.  I do warm my products to about 70, but have not literally heated them.  I will have to try that.  My bigger issue was really that the equipment I bought was not working in Colorado as it should have, so it became the issue of altitude.  My concern is/was that any turbine would also not work properly because of the altitude.  I didn't want to pay more for a 5 stage if I was really getting 3 -4 stage results.  Heating my products is not always possible, so I do have to depend on my equipment.

I did end up getting a demo today of the 6-stage Titan Capspray 115.  It can accommodate a pressure pot and small compressor, and also has an optional gallon pump.  I took my own products for the demo, and I must say that it performed beautifully.  The demo was a siphon gun set up, which for me was uncomfortable, but it comes with the system.  I would get a gravity cup and use the PPS system on that. 

There is a lot out there, and it's great that people like various things -- Accuspray, Fuji, Apollo and personal set ups -- it's great that there are options.  I think that the Titan is the system I will get, and it can accommodate different brands of hvlp guns if I want another gun.  But, since I have to deal with fluctuating psi, I think it's best to (as Tim suggested) get the highest psi turbine unit that I can get.  I also have local support for this system, and think that's important.  Hopefully it will pan out....

 

[tiralie]

With having the waterborne lacquer warmed I don't have any problems with it drying too fast or not leveling.

What is the temperature of your spray booth/area?
Tim

 

[avrs22]

With having the waterborne lacquer warmed I don't have any problems with it drying too fast or not leveling.

What is the temperature of your spray booth/area?
Tim

the shop is heated at 20 or 22 cel with a mini split heat pump.
I rarely brush the finish in the shop, I always spray it.
When brushing wb clear on staircase on site I rather have the stuff cooler. It will give me more time to work it.

 

[sancho57]

I don't have a spray booth, I spray in my garage shop, I was spraying in SoCal winter temps in the 30s/40s at night.

I used to take my cup and set it in a small bucket of warm water then spray my WB Enduro. no issues.

 

[rizzoa13]

Have you looked at the http://www.hvlp.com/product/1050vr4500/ now that you've decided you want a turbine with a small compressor and pressure pot? To me it seems the best option as it mounts on top of the turbine and looks extremely light. Also comes with a 2qt pot and mobility wheels for the bottom of the turbine.

The compressor can also be retrofitted to other turbines so I'm looking at it for my power5.

 

[brewster201]

Hello here is a standard 4 stage Lamb Ametek vacuum motor model 119292-00 that is installed in most if not all Hvlp units, they come in 2-5 stages as required

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-35256-lamb-ametek-119292-00-57-dia-4-stage-120v.aspx

Please don't get hung up on what model is best as they are all the same with the exception of variable output, this really is not required as you simply adjust the ball valve on the whip hose to reduce output.
Digital psi is not accurate and really once you start spraying you will understand what minimum pressure you need

Spend the money on a better gun and needle/tip sets

I use the the Agualente Precat WB pigmented topcoat lacquer and Sher-Wood Kem Aqua Pigment Lacquer
My primer of choice is Aqualente stain-blocking water Borne primer
I mainly spray kitchen doors and cabinets

My main 2 spray guns are the Fuji Xbc and the Apollo 7500 set up as pressure feed gravity using 3m PPS

Using a Pro heavy duty panel rack

Thanks
Bruce

 

[Allyson]

I do have a way to solve your issue, it would have everyone shaking their head if I posted how I had to get the fluid from a PPS cup to the air cap one day. Necessity was definitely the mother of invention that day.  Tom, you need to spill it...pun intended!

I will say it was safe due to the PRV in the PPS cup.

Tom

 

[Allyson]

Hi again,

In Colorado, where I am at over 5,200 feet, equipment does make a difference.  I know that it's ultimately about products, guns, pressure pots, etc.  My issue is that I spent over 2k for equipment that doesn't perform optimally at this altitude, and knowing this, I just wanted to have the best equipment for an appropriate price, outside of how I need to fuss with it and which products to use.  Products will continue to change, some getting heavier as solvents are removed, and I didn't want to change equipment so soon again.

I do love the Apollo 7500 gun so will keep it.  But, I also determined that I would like to have local support and this is not available for Fuji or Apollo.  Again, no criticism at all of these brands (outside of the marketing lit for Apollo as related to altitude), I just determined that for me, in Denver, it's best to go another route.

 

[tiralie]

With having the waterborne lacquer warmed I don't have any problems with it drying too fast or not leveling.

What is the temperature of your spray booth/area?
Tim

the shop is heated at 20 or 22 cel with a mini split heat pump.
I rarely brush the finish in the shop, I always spray it.
When brushing wb clear on staircase on site I rather have the stuff cooler. It will give me more time to work it.

Thanks again,. Just a couple more questions, are you storing the coatings at 20-22c? and how much are you warming them up to?
Tim

 

[tiralie]

I don't have a spray booth, I spray in my garage shop, I was spraying in SoCal winter temps in the 30s/40s at night.

I used to take my cup and set it in a small bucket of warm water then spray my WB Enduro. no issues.

Like Tom, I would would expect that those cooler shop temperatures would affect the application so warming the coatings would help a great deal. Under normal circumstances I would have thought it would be an unnecessary step. Seems I was wrong with that assumption.
Thanks
Tim

 

[avrs22]

With having the waterborne lacquer warmed I don't have any problems with it drying too fast or not leveling.

What is the temperature of your spray booth/area?
Tim

the shop is heated at 20 or 22 cel with a mini split heat pump.
I rarely brush the finish in the shop, I always spray it.
When brushing wb clear on staircase on site I rather have the stuff cooler. It will give me more time to work it.

Thanks again,. Just a couple more questions, are you storing the coatings at 20-22c? and how much are you warming them up to?
Tim

I don't have a thermostat to see the temp inside the fridge with the light always on but I would say probably 30cel
The wb that we use now days are very high in solids and need more pressure to atomize and spray them.
I use to use a 1.5 tip and switched to 1.9.
I spray most of the time with my Asturo gun hooked to a pressure pot.