I think I have decided but not sure . . .

[Kevin]

I do a lot of production sanding from the oscillating belt to the ROS. I have gone through 3 ROS's just last year. The Bosch 1295DVS has lasted the longest (been through 2 of them in two years) with the PC's coming in behind. I also have a lot of finish sanding to do on a kitchen remodel and several large furniture pieces.

I know I will need (or just want) two Festool sanders probably the RO 150 and the ETS 150 from what I understand. But if I owned just one starting out, would the RO 150 5mm be a good overall start? I understand the RO 90 is coming to NA this spring and wonder how that might play into a sanding strategy.

Lastly, does anyone have a suggestion on the best place to buy Festool? I have used Amazon a lot for powr tools, but I also like Japan Woodworker and I know they caryy Festool, as does McFeely's. Thanks for the input.

 

[sw1211]

Lastly, does anyone have a suggestion on the best place to buy Festool? I have used Amazon a lot for powr tools, but I also like Japan Woodworker and I know they caryy Festool, as does McFeely's. Thanks for the input.

As far as where to buy you'll be hard pressed to get better service than what Bob Marino or Tom Bellemare offer on a consistent basis.

 

[PeterK]

My opinion---
The RO90 is not large enough to be used for panels and such. I recommend the ETS150/3 as the first sander. With more aggresive sandpaper, it can still handle major removal - just not as fast as other sanders. Second purchase - the DTS400 pointy sander for sanding in corners and up tight against objects. Third purchase - the RO150 for major quick jobs. Yes the RO150 can do it all but it is heavy and large and not the most comfortable compared to the ETS. These 3 sanders cover 99.9% of most people's needs. The new RO90 would possibly be a better purchase than the DTS400 as it has more functionality. No one here has really reviewed it and not sure how the dust collection is when using the pointy adapter.

Depends upon your real needs. The ETS150/5 is more aggresive than the /3 so works faster but leaves more scratches or needs to use finer grits to get the same results. Luckily the paper works for both ETS models and the RO150 so is fully interchangable.

Sources - if you are purchasing online, I have used Bob Marino and McFeely's. Bob is fantastic and a great resource for advice. Have had shipping cost issues with McFeely's and many times they don't stock consumable items. Bob's shipping time is incredible. I have never purchased from Tom but from his posts here sure feel he would be a great dealer also. Bob is in Jersey and I am in Louisiana and still I get deliveries often in 2 or 3 days - faster if I request it.
Pete

 

[waho6o9]

Get a vacuum sander package deal with a dust deputy. Dust deputy saves on vacuum bags. A rotex and a 150/3  will separate you from the competition.
Bob Marino's service is unmatched and I've heard Tom Bellamare's top shelf as well.
Good luck with your choice.  [big grin]

 

[Kevin]

Going in I was leaning toward the RO 150 and after reading a bunch more over the last hour I still am. But if I go with a single action style like an ETS, I might also be looking at the LEX 2 150/7. Anyone have one of their pneumatics?

 

[Kevin]

Get a vacuum sander package deal with a dust deputy. Dust deputy saves on vacuum bags. . . .

I realize how efficient and effective the Festool vacuums are, but I have a top notch central vacuum system with ports at every work station. It's operated by remote also, so I hope to not miss having a Festool DC.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Get a vacuum sander package deal with a dust deputy. Dust deputy saves on vacuum bags. . . .

I realize how efficient and effective the Festool vacuums are, but I have a top notch central vacuum system with ports at every work station. It's operated by remote also, so I hope to not miss having a Festool DC.

probably won't work as well.

 

[grobin]

Get the Festool vacuum it has HEPA filters and will save you money on hazmat disposal and it will work better.

 

[PeterK]

By "central vac system", do you mean like a house might have or do you mean a central dust collection system often with a cyclone used in a shop? Dust collection systems are designed to move large volumes of air through large pipes and hoses at low suction pressure while a "shop vacuum" uses low volume but much higher suction static pressure.

 

[Kevin]

It's a 10HP Pentz style cyclone that exhausts outside the shop. It will be fine.

 

[nickao]

I have the Festools CT's and the Fein's, the central vac system blows them away. The Festools are great and make it like you have a central vac at the tool. In no way shape or form does a Festool CT or a Fein outperform the Grizzly 3HP Cyclone central vac. Not in my shop for me. Not with a sander and not with a large tool or machinery. If you do not need mobility and you have ports where you need them you do not need a CT.   If your CT is outperforming your central dust collector you do not have the central system set up right.

The only reason I use the smaller vacs is for my miter and if I don't want the 220V going on for small jobs. Its not worth clicking on a huge Cyclone for a 5 second cut with a miter or chop box or 2 minute sanding job,. Same with the router, if it is only going on a minute or two I use the CT and boom arm.

If I was going to a job site the CT would come with me.

Kevin you don't need a CT.  

 

[Wood_Junkie]

For sanding, a humongous, immensely powerful dust collector is *not* ideal.  It'll suck the sander tightly to the workpiece.  That's where the Festool CTs and the FEIN vacuums are superior:  They have variable suction.

 

[Kevin]

I appreciate all the advice about dust collection, I really do. Though I certainly don't know it all, I do have 25 years woodworking experience and getting the proper air volume to a connected tool is not a issue confined only to Festool tools. I have 17 blast gates in the system and a few ball valves sitting on the shelf if I think I need one. However, I've found that blast gates are as effective as a variable speed on a shop vac. In addition, various combinations of gate manipulation such as partially closing the one at the tool and/or  opening one or more others up or downstream is an easy way to find the sweet spot for any tool's individual characteristic, and once found is repeatably accurate while keeping  the amperage draw of the motor in a safe range.

Thanks for the advice on the sanders also. I've made my decision.