I want a New Bandsaw
- Thread starter Warrior
- Start date
EcoFurniture
Member
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2008
- Messages
- 608
$1500? Wow, not bad!!!!!
Jay Knoll said:
I know it! Right now I'm loaded with Domino sole plates. I've pretty well got the MFT/1080 leg extensions figured out -- Corwin is going to be my evaluator (he doesn't know it yet [wink]). Then the paralellel guide assemblies - there is a fair amount involved there. Sooner or later I want to get at some woodworking... [crying]
Eiji Fuller said:
What a great deal.. same as what I paid for my Hammer N4400 if I convert GBP to USD. Is the mitre gauge a bit crappy, the Hammer one is? Also for bandsaw drift, I found you can adjust for it by adjusting the threaded bar that holds the fence to the table, there is a nut either side of the underside of the table.. a bit clunky but works (In case you hadn't seen this already)
I am looking at bandsaws just now. I was looking for one that takes a 35mm blade for re-sawing. I would mainly want to cut tenons for door construction. Can anyone tell me, will a bandsaw cut an accurate, straight tennon cheek in oak at 8" high ?
Cheers, Woodguy
Cheers, Woodguy
Eiji Fuller said:
Oops, excuse the typo. [smile]
ACM makes a fine saw. I know they use to also build them for Laguna and Bridgewood as well as Felder, but I don't think they build the Laguna any more, and Bridgewood is out of business.
Eiji, didn't you have a Bridgewood? Is that what you're replacing?
woodguy7 said:
Wow! a 35mm blade? what a 25mm isnt big enough? the Felder should be able to tension a 35mm blade but I dont really see why I would need bigger than 25mm. The resaw king and and lennox trimaster blades should give you a really clean cut for your door tenons.
I had a 1" lenox woodmaster CT and that ate thru anything. A resaw blade but I still needed to sand the veneers. guys using the trimaster and resaw king say they dont need to sand so those would be the ones I would go for. At SMC Laguna is offering 2 - 3/4" resaw king blades for 150 for any length up to 180". my saw takes a 166" - 167 1/2" blade and a trimaster in 166" will cost me 235.00. I think I will try the resaw kings for 150. 3/4 should be OK for resawing right? and would still be small enough for general purpose sawing of gentle curves.
nickao
Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2008
- Messages
- 4,617
I like the 1 1/4" blades the best.
My 1" carbide blade is brand new just sitting on the floor. I used it about 5 times. I think I paid exactly 235.00 for it.
I just do not like the carbide blades as much as a brand new bi-metal steel blade. Carbides may last longer, but the initial sharpness of the steel blades is oh so much better.
My main concern is speed as everything that goes through my band saw goes through the drum sander at one point or another anyway. I can still shave very thin pieces if I need them though.
With a 1 1/4" blade(or a 35mm) drift is just not an issue. With a 1" blade the drift may or may not be an issue. Less than 1" drift is almost certainly an issue.
I truly believe the guys that say they do not have to sand either take a very, very slow approach or their standards are less, as I sand 99% of all re-sawed wood. I would rather slam through the re-saw and toss it through the drum sander. I can also get more exact thicknesses easily this way and it just has to be at least twice as fast.
I rarely need ultra thin pieces where this method would not work.
My 1" carbide blade is brand new just sitting on the floor. I used it about 5 times. I think I paid exactly 235.00 for it.
I just do not like the carbide blades as much as a brand new bi-metal steel blade. Carbides may last longer, but the initial sharpness of the steel blades is oh so much better.
My main concern is speed as everything that goes through my band saw goes through the drum sander at one point or another anyway. I can still shave very thin pieces if I need them though.
With a 1 1/4" blade(or a 35mm) drift is just not an issue. With a 1" blade the drift may or may not be an issue. Less than 1" drift is almost certainly an issue.
I truly believe the guys that say they do not have to sand either take a very, very slow approach or their standards are less, as I sand 99% of all re-sawed wood. I would rather slam through the re-saw and toss it through the drum sander. I can also get more exact thicknesses easily this way and it just has to be at least twice as fast.
I rarely need ultra thin pieces where this method would not work.
