Idea for ripping narrow-stock

[jmbfestool]

Rear stop attached for large stock
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[jmbfestool]

Some Pictures attached to the RAIL!     First ones have the Adapter attached! So you can cut short stock!!

Second Lot of pictures have the adapter removed for cutting wider stock with the stop attached on the end aswell.

WITH ADAPTER

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[jmbfestool]

withOUT adapter

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[jmbfestool]

If you make it like that!  Ill have 4!!    With 4 bars at what ever the width of the guide rail is for short stock and another 4 at 620mm cutting capacity so it will be bit longer in length so allow for the ends of coarse.      I have done the jig on sketch to scale so you can have the sketch copy if it will help.

JMB  

EDITED:  Oh I only did holes just for ease so to understand what was going on I didn't want to start adding knobs and bolts and screws as I didnt want to spend all day on it!  I get angry with sketch as it is because sometimes it does not do what you want it to do!

 

[John2532]

Thanks for putting the time into the drawings JMB. It looks like we are pretty much thinking alike. Not using the manufactured rule would add a bit to the costs, unfortunately buying the empire/johnson T-square is probably less expensive than the raw-stock, then there is the machining. Instead of the adjustment plates, how about some cylinders that attach to the bottom? They could be threaded or still use the magnets. Not as much surface area but much easier to machine.

I have to head out to work but will think about ways to combine all of the features.

John

 

[jmbfestool]

By making the adapter with a rebate same as the rebate in the jig for the bar you can make loads of the jigs for people to buy  and if people want to use it for narrow stock you can sell the adaptor as an accessory with a short bar or no bar.  At least you don't have to machine two different types off jigs like you mentoined above making it a solid piece with out the wood for people who don't want to use it for narrow stock.    They can now just simply have the jig with or without adapter.

Saves time and money

JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

Thanks for putting the time into the drawings JMB. It looks like we are pretty much thinking alike. Not using the manufactured rule would add a bit to the costs, unfortunately buying the empire/johnson T-square is probably less expensive than the raw-stock, then there is the machining. Instead of the adjustment plates, how about some cylinders that attach to the bottom? They could be threaded or still use the magnets. Not as much surface area but much easier to machine.

I have to head out to work but will think about ways to combine all of the features.

John

I dont mind paying abit more!  I rather have it all made for the job instead of making do with something and to get it to fit. 

I can get metal plates up the road from me easily so no problem for me!  I think cylinders could catch and dig into the wood a bit as you move your rail out of the way so it wont just kinda slide out of the way especially if you have a few saw cuts through your bench.

JMB

 

[John2532]

JMB,

I'll try to come up with a plan that allows the use of the Empire/Johnson rule and make available a fully-machined rule. There is no reason the jig can't work with both and people can choose what level/price point they desire.  I think Henry Ford is rolling over right about now.

John

 

[Mark]

One of the key design problems to solve with the guide rail system is that you always need a piece of stock the same thickness to support the rail if its narrower than the rail. Anybody think of some kind of leveler to get around this problem? This is the design challenge...

Problem: Cut a piece of lumber that is narrower than the rail w/o using a piece of lumber of similar thickness

Anybody think of this w/o going to the tablesaw?

 

[RONWEN]

I have thought about how I will add the function to the parallel guides that I made (not using lumber strips) but I don't have it modeled or added the the guides yet -- maybe in the next week or two.  These pictures are just of the original parallel guides.
http://picasaweb.google.com/ronwenner/20100620#

 

[John2532]

One of the key design problems to solve with the guide rail system is that you always need a piece of stock the same thickness to support the rail if its narrower than the rail. Anybody think of some kind of leveler to get around this problem? This is the design challenge...

Problem: Cut a piece of lumber that is narrower than the rail w/o using a piece of lumber of similar thickness

Anybody think of this w/o going to the tablesaw?

That is the purpose behind the stacking plates that JMB has proposed. Other ideas could be as simple as drilling a vertical hole through the jig and having a rod that extends/locks to different heights or a threaded rod that can be adjusted. I guess you could even make some pieces that attach independently on the rail but I think the fewer pieces the better.

John

 

[John2532]

I have thought about how I will add the function to the parallel guides that I made (not using lumber strips) but I don't have it modeled or added the the guides yet -- maybe in the next week or two.  These pictures are just of the original parallel guides.
http://picasaweb.google.com/ronwenner/20100620#

Nice work Ron.

 

[Mark]

and I forgot to say, excellent sketchUP models and the machining looks great!

 

[jmbfestool]

One of the key design problems to solve with the guide rail system is that you always need a piece of stock the same thickness to support the rail if its narrower than the rail. Anybody think of some kind of leveler to get around this problem? This is the design challenge...

Problem: Cut a piece of lumber that is narrower than the rail w/o using a piece of lumber of similar thickness

Anybody think of this w/o going to the tablesaw?

and I forgot to say, excellent sketchUP models and the machining looks great!

Not being funny but do you read or look at the post in this topic?!      Thats the main talk on this topic the best and easiest way to adjust height for different thickness stock and being able to have one tool which will do wide and narrow stock.

If you look at the sketch ups I have done you can see I said their is a Adapter to allow for narrow stock and then removing the adaptor to cut wide stock.  Then I mentioned that the adapter has magnets attached to hold different thickness plates.  To me this means you dont have to go to your table saw to cut packers?!?!

John2532 I like the rod idea being able to move it up and down at any height!  I just got this feeling I dont like a small rod just holding it up I like a large flat area just incase the rod falls through a hole in the MFT or something.

I had another thought about the the plates! Instead of having different thickness plates you can have like a few 1-2mm thick plates and then you can screw or glue wood of different thickness.  It has a few benefits!   Its cheaper for one! You can easily make it your self if you want different thickness plates! Its wood so you dont have to worry about scratching your stock

Like this

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JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

Just for you Mark Enomoto!

I have also replaced these two pictures on the first page.

Mark Enomoto can you see now that this is what we have been trying to solve from the beginning of this topic.

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[jmbfestool]

EDITED: Previous posts on page 1  I have added some writing to some of the pictures to better understand.

JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

I have thought about how I will add the function to the parallel guides that I made (not using lumber strips) but I don't have it modeled or added the the guides yet -- maybe in the next week or two.  These pictures are just of the original parallel guides.
http://picasaweb.google.com/ronwenner/20100620#

I like how you used the guide connectors in your jig! NICE!

 

[lumbajac]

A possible solution to the adjustability dilemma.  JMB said,  "John2532 I like the rod idea being able to move it up and down at any height!  I just got this feeling I dont like a small rod just holding it up I like a large flat area just incase the rod falls through a hole in the MFT or something."

Could you perhaps affix (probably weld) a large flat area such as a piece of flat stock to the bottom of said rod?  The rod could slide through a slightly larger tube of sorts with a set screw to allow for adjustability.  Then again, how do you support below the guide rail with the weight of the saw going over the piece, but still have adjustability?  Maybe it could be a threaded rod that could adjust by threading up and down?  Then you could have one under the rail as well.  Problem is, there would probably be limited travel for such a threaded rod under the guide rail.  JMB's idea of plates isdefinitely most practical at this point, and acceptable.  Although, it seems like something more is just around the corner if people keep thinking and tinkering.

Corey

 

[John2532]

All good ideas, when I get back in the shop I am going to play with an eccentric mounted to the side of the jig. Probably a circle with a center hole drilled off-center or possibly a rectangle that, of course, would allow 4 settings.

 

[Scott Rollins]

How about a wedge type adjustment?  with a steep enough angle you could handle all the possiblities for plywood thickness.