If you were (or did) get rid of your table saw only to have a TS + MFT3...

The Bosch and the track saw could replace it but why would you want to?  You'll spend more time deciding which saw to use, how you are going to make a cut, setting up, putting away and so on and so on.  90% of the time you could have all your table saw cuts done before you layout, set up and cut sheets with your TS55.
 
lambeater said:
I are also in the same boat. I own a large general 3hp cabinet saw which takes up room in my small shop. I also use a TS55 as well and 2 tables. My question is can the TS55 and the Bosch 4100-09 with gravity rise stand replace my cabinet saw and still produce the saw quality of work, or should I keep the cabinet saw and find work a rounds.

thx
Lambeater

Once you have a great saw, it usually doesn't make sense to get rid of it in place of a TS55 and/or a smaller table saw. My situation was different. I had an older saw; under powered and usable but really not great with regard to accuracy. I intended to replace it with a cabinet saw, but realized after moving a new 8" jointer into my basement workshop that I would not likely be able to get a cabinet saw down there. I'd probably need to spend several hundred dollars to hire someone to move it into the basement from my driveway or garage. I decided to give the TS55 a shot and try to make it work. I have found that it is very flexible, accurate, and I can do most things with it. However, it is not an easy job to rip on it no matter what accessories you have; at least not smaller strips or pieces. I use my bandsaw for that and joint edges on the jointer. It works OK, but a high quality small, more portable, lighter table saw would work in my shop for those jobs I just can't do or do well with the TS 55 or a bandsaw or a router. I have found, though, that dadoing with my OF1400 on a guide rail is much more accurate and does a better job than a tables saw with even a good dado blade. Plus, i've expanded my hand planes and have used a block plane in a couple of situations where I wouldn't have before with much better results. I'm not a professional woodworker, carpenter, or builder/remodeler or cabinetmaker. I do all of those things but for me, not as a job. I just enjoy the time in my shop and, therefore, don't mind if it takes a little longer. I just like working with wood and actually the hand tools, I am finding, are just as satisfying.

So those that tell you not to get rid of a good quality table saw for the TS55 are probably right. If you need to replace an old saw, like me, I'd consider all your options first, then make the decision about which saw or saws to get. I find the TS55 and MFT together a great tool and, as I use them more, I find that the work gets a little faster with less thought about setup.
 
It took me about 3 years to realize I really don't want/nor do I have the space for single use shop equipment. I totally bought into Festool because of the tracksaw's safety features: riving knife and plunge cutting, as well as the dust extraction. Lay a track on your line and it cuts perfect every time then finish off on the MFT for accurate cross cuts -- good enough for me.

Like most discussions, context is important -- I'm a weekend wood warrior remodeling my home cutting sheetgoods for projects (occasionally), not milling raw solid wood for furniture with complex joinery. I'm very happy with what I can do with the MFT/Tracksaw.
 
I just finished breaking down a 3/4" sheet of Quarter Sawn White Oak plywood and while the cross cut was done with my Porter Cable model 314 trim saw with wood chips/dust flying everywhere, the 8 panels were cut to size on my table saw in less than 5 minutes with less than 1/64" precision.  I can't work without my Powermatic 66 table saw hooked to my Oneida Cyclone V-System shop dust control.  While I may still buy the Festool track saw for the initial sheet cross cuts, the rest will always be on my table saw (since I already own it along with my Excalibur sliding table attachment).

Jack
 
Before I got my ATF 55 and MFT 1080, I had to set up horses outside to cut any sheet wood.  There just was not space in my shop.  I could not even get a full sheet of ply to my table saw.  If I could, I had no space for either infeed or out feed.  I could lay it on top of my table saw and cut off strips with my circular saw until the pieces were small enough to cut to accurate sizes.  Rip a 10 foot 2x4 or other size of dimension lumber was near impossible with table saw.  Cross cutting anything over 6 ft was near impossible once I retired my RAS until I got a SCMS.  I had to do a lot of my cutting outside.  much off the tailgate of my truck and horses and planks for support as well.

With the ATF 55 and MFT, it is a lot more comfy working when I don't have to go outside to make any cuts.  I do still make either a full length rip cut or a 2 foot cross cut on plywood before I can get a sheet into my shop for further breakdown.
Tinker
 
When you cut mostly sheet goods the decision about a table saw might not be so difficult. However, when work with a mix of hardwood and plywood, the decision isn't so clear. I understand completely why it is asked so often. In an ideal world, with sufficient space, having both a table saw and a a TS55 or 75 is obviously the way to go. Each has its own use and both are useful. Having a basement shop it is difficult to even get a large cabinet saw down there since a flight of steps is involved. For me, taking everything into account, in the long run, it may be a good idea to get a saw that can be easily brought into the basement but moved around and folded up when not in use. Of course, quality results, safety, and great dust collection are all important. Most job site saws seem to suffer when it comes to at least dust collection. So, while I completely understand those that say you can't get along without a table saw, it is not a simple decision for most. The allure of doing without a table saw for me, at least, made me give that a shot. So far, it's working but it isn't ideal and, as I get more woodworking time and build more furniture for my house from solid wood, I'm sure I will want to move toward a table saw. Regardless of all the hype and recommendations from others here about job site saws, I'm still not convinced any currently on the market are suited, especially in the area of dust collection. I've conquered that with my other tools. I don't want to take  step backward.
 
Thx for the replies guys which got me thinking about how to make my bigger saw work in a smaller space. Need to re- organise.

Lambeater
 
lambeater said:
Thx for the replies guys which got me thinking about how to make my bigger saw work in a smaller space. Need to re- organise.

Lambeater

I agree with that completely. If I had owned a good quality cabinet saw, I would never have gotten rid of it. In fact I would never have even been in the market for a new saw, much less a track saw.
 
I tried that approach, sold a Powermatic, partially due to space limitations and ended up slightly frustrated. I ended up purchasing a Mafell Erika which has great dust collection, a sliding table, extremely portable and take up hardly any space at all. Also very pricey but it was what fit my needs to a tee.
 
lambeater said:
Thx for the replies guys which got me thinking about how to make my bigger saw work in a smaller space. Need to re- organise.

Lambeater

My first shop was tiny and I couldn't fully utilize my cabinet saw.  When I moved to a little bigger shop (still small) I decided to give my cabinet saw all the room it needed.  It's the focal point of my shop and everything has to work around it.  Sometimes I wish I had a little less space for the cabinet saw and more space for other things but I quickly remember how much better everything flows when the cabinet saw has sufficient space.
 
They're complimentary and a well rounded shop should have

both to make your life easier.

The two frames were made with my TS55 and I was an 1/8th" short for the cut out,

Oops, move the rail an 1/8 and it's done. :) No can do on a table saw, at least safely.

[attachimg=1]
 

Attachments

  • cutting boards 051.jpg
    cutting boards 051.jpg
    784.3 KB · Views: 1,387
There's no replacement for a table saw. I've got my shop in a 2 car garage with a 3hp Jet 50" cabinet saw, I've got a TS75 that I use to break down sheet goods to close enough dimensions, then getting repeatable perfect size rips on the table saw for cabinets and such.
 
A track saw is not a replacement for a table saw but I think someone with a track saw, bandsaw and router table could do just about anything a table saw can do (although not as quickly).
 
Rock said:
A track saw is not a replacement for a table saw but I think someone with a track saw, bandsaw and router table could do just about anything a table saw can do (although not as quickly).

Having tried to get along without a tablesaw for a year + now, I agree that you can do most things with a track saw that you could do with a tablesaw; sometimes not as easily and many times involving some thought first. Certainly track saws excel at cutting sheet goods, just because cutting a large sheet on even a big tablesaw table is a difficult proposition (even if you have more than one person there). However, I have found that cross-cutting almost any wood with the TS55/MFT, for me at least, is more accurate than the tablesaw I gave up (maybe not better than a high end cabinet saw). I find myself being more creative with the router, bandsaw, jointer, and hand planes, and find that I enjoy it just as much or more than with the tablesaw. I'm still looking for a small tablesaw for the rare task that really could be done only with the tablesaw or would give me a better result. 
 
The whole trick to cutting sheets on a table saw is having enough material support. Big saw table, big outfeed table, and some sort of side support for the off Cut.

For a long time I had my jointer close to the left side of my saw table, with a long narrow box beam that rested on it when the tables were leveled. Roller bearings on top at the saw height allowed easy sliding.

Roller guides on the fence keep the piece tight to it.

Keep that table waxed.

At the end of the day slinging a sheet onto the saw table vs onto a cut table isn't all that different. Lots of cabinet makers move a lot of ply in a day. It all comes down to practice and muscle memory.

A pabel lifter is nice, as is a drywall cart for moving stacks around.

And if my track moves I don't know it til after I've made the cut. Watching a sheet slide along a fence I know it as it is happening.
 
I have a Powermatic Cabinet saw with a sliding table that gives me perfect cross cuts every time.  If I didn't have a sliding table I'd use a cross cut sled which also gives perfect cross cuts.

Prior to my Powermatic, I had the Inca Major table saw with the mortising table attachment (Fixed arbor, tilting table) It was Swiss made and as accurate as any tool I've ever owned. I used a cross cut sled with that saw for over 20 years and made precision furniture, exterior doors, etc.  You might be able to find a good used Inca Major table saw and if I had more space I would have kept mine but after 20 years use I sold it for the same price I paid for the saw.

Jack
 
You just need one of these for variety work:





The whitney is from 1932

And one of these to just do nothing but eat lumber:



I mounted my feeder on it and I did not mess with anything other then lubing the saw.

The greenlee 495 (I call it the Uglee) is form 1928.

Both 5hp DD.  14"blade in the 77, 16" blade in the 495

 
Yup . . . What all of you said. Too bad all of us don't have that kind of space and don't all have workshops which allow large machines to easily be moved into the shop. Problem is, most of us have to make choices because of space, money, and location.
 
Too bad both those saws together were less then the price of a new ts 55r.

Unloading is easy, ramps and pipe work just fine (or a fork lift).

I don't have much space, 1500 sqft.

 
OK Darcey, I know those are only your trim saws.  Now show us what you use for site work and the really tough jobs.  [poke]
Tinker
 
Back
Top