Interior Door Dimensions

[Sharp_Chisel]

Hello All,

For those of you with more knowledge than I...why am I having trouble finding stock replacement doors that are wide enough to be scribed to the jambs of my 1950s ranch?

The doors I've purchased so far have been from the local big box stores (which may be the problem right there). But, I'm finding that I would need another 1/2"-3/4" of width to get a scribe that results in an even reveal all around the door. I'm no professional and am just working through a remodel following the instruction from Gary Katz's videos/articles.

I'm thinking that purchasing better doors would solve the problem, but I've been unable to find technical specs on manufactures' websites. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Wooden Skye]

What are the measurements for your rough opening?  I am sure once you give those others may be able to help with advise.  I have a very old house, and nothing is standard, so you may need to go the custom route or build out the jamb.

 

[FinishingCanuck]

It doesn't sound like the rough opening matters here. Are you using existing jambs? Are the doors you purchased hollow-core?

 

[Sharp_Chisel]

Thank you for the replies. To answer your questions:

I am using the existing jambs, didn't want to tear out all the trim, etc

The doors I've picked up so far are hollow core

For example, the door I've purchased is 27 15/16" wide and the jambs vary from 28" to 28 1/8"

Maybe it's just my inexperience, but I've not been able to get the door positioned to where I can scribe both sides accurately for an even reveal. I'm using a door hook and shims to get it up off the floor and in position.

 

[FinishingCanuck]

I'm not sure how Gary kats does this job but here's how I've done it in the past.
I would start by carefully removing the casing. Be sure not to damage it. I'd machine for hinges and then hang the door. With the trim removed you can then adjust the jambs to the door instead of cutting the door to fit the opening. When I'm satisfied with the fit il nail the trim back on.
I normally do new construction but this is the method I've used in the past

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

For example, the door I've purchased is 27 15/16" wide and the jambs vary from 28" to 28 1/8"

Just hang it. 

 

[Sharp_Chisel]

Adjusting the jamb makes sense too, from what I've watched he (Gary) advocates scribing the door and then planing it to fit to the jamb. Maybe I just need more practice!

@Warner Const. I've seen some of your posts (particularly that all oak ranch remodel!) If I can get my doors to look like that I'll be all set!

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I am not seeing the issue with those measurements. 
I shoot for a 1/16" gap on both sides, bevel both edges. 

You are not very far off, a hammer and block may do the trick.

 

[rizzoa13]

I think he is saying it won't be an even reveal which would make the door look like it isn't installed plumb even if it is.

If I were in your shoes id tear down the house and level the property with a bulldozer, bc I'm that anal! In all swriousness though I'd remove all of the casings and set the hinge side jamb plumb, hang the door and then shim the latch side jamb to get the even reveal. Remember you'll probably have to get new baseboard on either side as your casings will shift and most likely leave a gap on one side.

 

[justinh]

It is common to find older jambs set up this way.  The carpenter received a 28" door from  the millwork shop and sized the jamb to fit the door.  Katz's scribing technique works well on more modern under cut door.  In you case the head would read 28" from jamb leg to jamb leg and the door would be either 27 7/8" and 27 13/13".  Most modern prehungs I see are configured this way.

You've got a couple options.  You can hang the door as it is and tweak the hinges and plane small amounts to get the side reveal looking acceptable (if possible).  The top would get scribed to follow the taper of the head and the bottom cut to follow the taper of the floor.  You can order a custom door with the width you would need to scribe.  If it is a flush door you can get a 30" door, cut it down and re-stile it to the width you need to scribe it.  This would leave the stiles too out of proportion on a panel door. Or as others have suggested you could pop the casing and resize the jamb.  I would call this a last resort. 

In situations like your I would go with hanging and tweaking the door.