Is there a brake on the American TS?

Frank-Jan

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Sep 16, 2007
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A few current threads made me notice that the name of the ts 55 version sold in the US is called TS55EQ, as oposed to the European TS55EBQ version. Does this mean that those saws don't have a brake that stops the blade in  2 seconds? I noticed earlier that the OF1400 was missing the "B" aswell, and I now saw that the OF1100 is missing it too.
Is there a reason for this?
I think it is a nice feature, it takes a lot less time if you want to wait untill the blade stops before you retract it, and it  also provides extra safety; I have even bought a more expensive version when I replaced my bosch 230mm angle grinder so it would have a blade stop.
I use my of 1100 to mortise hinges in doorjambs, and with the brake I am much less likely to damage my template when I'm in a hurry.
 
My TS 75 takes longer than 2 seconds to stop, but not a whole lot longer. I guess it does not have a break because it does not stop like my miter saw blade does. Then again it does not spin like my table saw blade either.

Nickao
 
Well, I haven't timed it with a stopwatch, but I think that was the time I mostly see advertised for tools. I remember reading for the reason the OF1400 not having a brake was that it would cause more wear.
But since all my old makita handheld circular saws had the brake function, I find it odd that festool wouldn't have it.

I did just see that they also sell another version of the TS55 in Holland (haven't seen it in the stores, but it is on their site); but that's a TS55Q, which is also lacking the E; so it doesn't have the electronic speed setting, and has a slightly less powerful motor.

My table saw also doesn't have a brake, it's a very old 380V SCM, but I am not allowed to let an employee use it (for that and lot's of other mandatory safety regulations that are not met;))
 
No the US version doesn't have a brake. If I remember correctly the brake is housed in the handle of the TS55 saws because of the heavier gauge wire needed for our 110 voltage there isn't enough space in the handle for the brake. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm sure the US saw dosen't have the brake.
 
Brice, that would be a good reason. If you check the festool uk site, you can see that the EBQ version only exits in the 240V version.
The 2200 router and the kapex do have the brake; the 110V versions of the planer and even the CS saws don't.
Alltough it's logical, it didn't occur to me that if you have the same power output at a lower voltage you need thicker wires.
 
Frank-Jan said:
I use my of 1100 to mortise hinges in doorjambs, and with the brake I am much less likely to damage my template when I'm in a hurry.

in a hurry?  messing up a templite?  huh,  hecck I do that even when not in a hurry!!!  brake or no brake.

I use the PC battery powered 19.2 routers set up exclusive for doors, and they twrill around and around.

but that is interesting about those tools having brakes on them..... are they ABS ?    lol
 
Frank-Jan said:
Brice, that would be a good reason. If you check the festool uk site, you can see that the EBQ version only exits in the 240V version.
The 2200 router and the kapex do have the brake; the 110V versions of the planer and even the CS saws don't.
Alltough it's logical, it didn't occur to me that if you have the same power output at a lower voltage you need thicker wires.

That's right Frank-jam it is the current that dictates the wire size.
 
Nick, that 's probably why the tools are rated in amps instead of Watts, but I didn't think much off it, because when you guys talk about breakers they're also mostly 16 and 20 amp?re like over here.

Forrest, thanks, I should have ran a search first.
 
honeydokreg said:
Frank-Jan said:
I use my of 1100 to mortise hinges in doorjambs, and with the brake I am much less likely to damage my template when I'm in a hurry.

in a hurry?  messing up a templite?  huh,  hecck I do that even when not in a hurry!!!  brake or no brake.

I use the PC battery powered 19.2 routers set up exclusive for doors, and they twrill around and around.

but that is interesting about those tools having brakes on them..... are they ABS ?    lol

I would use a smaller router for the hinges too, if I didn't really need the dust collection. We do our doors the Dutch way (doorframes are set first, then the bricklayer builds his wall around it, fixing the frame to/in the wall as he builds it, by screwing in L-shaped ancors into the frame) so the hinges in the frame have to be routed in place. Without dustcollection, the dust gathers in the template, and gets in between the template and the guide bushing.
The template I use is like this one It has a little tab at the top, that buts against the header of the frame, and that hooks to the door when doing the hinges for the door, automatically giving a 2mm reveal. (the picture is a bit unclear, but the tab is at the top hinge template, and they slide on a T-track)
 
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