DeformedTree
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Roseland said:
So orthodontics [smile]
Kit probably cost more than many basic doors.
Is there a way to fix a warped door?
- Thread starter AlexThePalex
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So orthodontics [smile]
Kit probably cost more than many basic doors.
If you can get door for under £11.50 I’d like to know where from!
https://www.sws-eu.com/products/adjustable-door-straightener-fully-recessed/9587/
Andrew
https://www.sws-eu.com/products/adjustable-door-straightener-fully-recessed/9587/
Andrew
AlexThePalex
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Thank you all for all your suggestions. I should have been more thorough in my initial diagnose of the problem, after all the things suggested in this thread I had a closer look at the whole and put a straight edge and a level against it. Turns out the door is not so badly warped at all, just a 2 mm difference between top and bottom.
The real problem is the jamb, it has been completely butchered. And the odd thing is, the jamb is wider on top where the gap is than at the bottom where there is no gap. [blink]
[attachimg=1]
I think the best thing to do is to scribe the jamb to the door and rout away a thin strip and then move the strike plate a centimeter in.
Thanks again.
The real problem is the jamb, it has been completely butchered. And the odd thing is, the jamb is wider on top where the gap is than at the bottom where there is no gap. [blink]
[attachimg=1]
I think the best thing to do is to scribe the jamb to the door and rout away a thin strip and then move the strike plate a centimeter in.
Thanks again.
Attachments
DeformedTree
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Roseland said:
thats a lot cheaper than I was expecting, heck, I don't even think you can buy a rod that long for that price.
DeformedTree
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Measuring changes everything.
Slippery slope, next thing you know you will be tearing down walls to square everything up.
Slippery slope, next thing you know you will be tearing down walls to square everything up.
AlexThePalex
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DeformedTree said:
Lol, no, I've given up on that in this house a long time ago.
FestitaMakool
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Haha, of course - it’s the wall that needs levelling [big grin]
Think you have found a good solution, as now you have discovered that you have a bespoke jamb, which will be even more bespoke.
Think you have found a good solution, as now you have discovered that you have a bespoke jamb, which will be even more bespoke.
AlexThePalex
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FestitaMakool said:
At least when I'm done, it all bespokes together.
woodferret
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If it somehow doesn't work out, you can do the North American thing and tack on a strip of narrow profiled stop to conform to wherever the door is in the jamb.
If this is a fairly modern hollow-core door, I would replace it. I had a similar problem with a brand new hollow core door that I got for a pocket door installation.
Many years ago, hollow-core doors had substantial wood around the perimeter and across where the lockset gets installed. The paper honeycomb was glued to the plywood door skins.
The hollow-core door that I bought had a birch veneer, which I thought was perfect for painting. I painted it lying flat on sawhorses with Behr Marquis semi-gloss paint. Once I painted it, the door warped. It was worthless in the pocket track.
I cut it up to dispose of it. When I did so, I discovered that the honeycomb was not glued to the skins, that the skins were made of cardboard with a thin veneer of birch, and the perimeter support was about 1" wide, so you are limited to saw down the door by about 1/2" per side.
Also, they had only small blocks on either side for mounting the lockset.
Apparently the moisture from the paint was sufficient to cause the warp. Perhaps if I painted while on hinges, and if I coated both sides of the door the same day, the door would not have warped.
The solid core door cost $110.00. Plus the cost of the hollow-core door that I threw out (and all the paint that went with it). So the door ended up costing me $140.00 total.
If it warped like that, it is probably one of the crappy new generation hollow core doors. I would seek out a solid core door. Not only more substantial, but more attractive too. (And heavier to carry around--a helper would have been nice.)
Many years ago, hollow-core doors had substantial wood around the perimeter and across where the lockset gets installed. The paper honeycomb was glued to the plywood door skins.
The hollow-core door that I bought had a birch veneer, which I thought was perfect for painting. I painted it lying flat on sawhorses with Behr Marquis semi-gloss paint. Once I painted it, the door warped. It was worthless in the pocket track.
I cut it up to dispose of it. When I did so, I discovered that the honeycomb was not glued to the skins, that the skins were made of cardboard with a thin veneer of birch, and the perimeter support was about 1" wide, so you are limited to saw down the door by about 1/2" per side.
Also, they had only small blocks on either side for mounting the lockset.
Apparently the moisture from the paint was sufficient to cause the warp. Perhaps if I painted while on hinges, and if I coated both sides of the door the same day, the door would not have warped.
The solid core door cost $110.00. Plus the cost of the hollow-core door that I threw out (and all the paint that went with it). So the door ended up costing me $140.00 total.
If it warped like that, it is probably one of the crappy new generation hollow core doors. I would seek out a solid core door. Not only more substantial, but more attractive too. (And heavier to carry around--a helper would have been nice.)
AlexThePalex
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Packard, it is a solid panel door, but with a layer of veneer glued on. Pictures are above. Turned out the door is not as badly warped as I first thought, but most of the problem is in the door jamb. I scribed the jamb to the door and cut a thin stripe away so the door sits flush again.
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